2005 CRD. Question about suggested (important) maintenance

CRD_Joe · **Posted:** Mon Feb 03, 2020 9:03 am

Ok, Ive got a 2005 CRD. 125,000 miles, and Ive never had a maintenance problem or issue with this truck! I know, I know not the norm, but Ive been lucky. Now the truck isnt stock. Ive tried to do what I can to improve the likely hood of continued good performance. Here is a list of what Ive done with/to the truck. Im writing because Im looking for ideas of what some of you diesel freaks might suggest I do that I havent done.

Suncoast torque converter/transco shift kit
Sasquatch EGR removal and Sasquatch Provent
2.5" exhaust straight flow muffler.
Green Diesel chip for both the engine and transmission
V6 air box/ARB snorkle
Samco hoses
Sasquatch battery tray and large Odyssey battery
Replaced all the engine and transmission mounts at 118,000 miles

Did the timing belt at 95,000 miles. Change oil with Amsoil every 5000 miles.

So is there anything you guys would suggest that I should do to keep this mini beast going strong.

Thank you for the help.

[url][url=https://flic.kr/p/MrYMvA]

[/url]Best car camping set up. 1600 by JT_Bentzen, on Flickr[/url]

APC9199 · **Posted:** Mon Feb 03, 2020 12:10 pm

I didn't see these mentioned anywhere,

In-Tank lift pump

2-Micron fuel filter

There are write ups for both here on LostJeeps. Both are vital for long term reliability in my opinion. The lift pump will prevent air-in-fuel issues that can crop up at ANY time for seemingly no reason. The fuel filter will catch the relatively large sediment that can pass thru an OEM fuel filter. This will greatly extend the life of your injectors, which are not cheap and may eventually become hard to find at all.

CRD_Joe · **Posted:** Mon Feb 03, 2020 12:21 pm

Thanks. Sasquatch has the lift pump. I dont know where a 2 micron filter kit would be.

I dont think Ive ever had fuel issues/problems. Why after 125,000 miles would I need a lift pump?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon Feb 03, 2020 5:57 pm

Quote:

I dont think Ive ever had fuel issues/problems. Why after 125,000 miles would I need a lift pump?

Because one day you will have a fuel system problem and wondering why you're constantly have to bleed air out of the fuel filter.

iakj11 · **Posted:** Mon Feb 03, 2020 6:51 pm

CRD_Joe wrote:

I dont know where a 2 micron filter kit would be.

The threads mentioned previously (look in the crd tech section) list part numbers and installation solutions that others have used. WWDiesel is a member and supporting vendor here who sells a kit that has all of the parts you need.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 04, 2020 8:15 am

for the 2 micron fuel filter which should save wear on your injectors all you really need is a piece of aluminum fromlowes etc bend it to mount behind the current filter head and amount a $25 filter head and the filter itself. There are several choices . Total cost including filter about $50.

One thing nobody mentioned and I have been meaning to do but haven't yet is a bypass oil filter system. This uses a low micron oil filter about 2 to 5 micron compared to 15 to 20 micron for many primary filters and filters a small portion of the oil flow at any one time. Many over the road trucks use this for several reasons to help engine longevity but maybe in their case saving money on changing huge amounts of oil often at a large cost becomes unnecessary and they usually then change the oil when oil test show its needed. I am actually very surprised more on the forum haven't done this. I think a lot because of room to locate the filter etc. One member I know for sure has one installed is Mass-Hole.

The absolute most important thing you need to do is make sure and keep rockers in good shape and Change the valves out before premature failure. I recommend redoing all the timing belt etc and at the same time put in set of new style rockers/lifters have the head cleaned replace the valves and change head gasket and put in ARP studs all at the same time at between 150k and 165K miles. Then you should be good for another 100K or so.

CRD_Joe · **Posted:** Tue Feb 04, 2020 9:49 am

This is the engine bay of my diesel powered Suzuki long wheelbase Samurai. You can see the labeled Amsoil bypass filter at the 8 oclock position. It really does keep your engine oil cleaner. Just havent figured where to put one in that tight KJ engine bay.

[url][url=https://flic.kr/p/7CLAXy]

[/url]Samurai 2L LWB engine bay by JT_Bentzen, on Flickr[/url]

[url][url=https://flic.kr/p/6PHgEe]

[/url]LWB Samurai by JT_Bentzen, on Flickr[/url]

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Feb 04, 2020 2:42 pm

Sweet Samurai.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 05, 2020 4:00 am

Nice pics it seems I saw pics of one very similar which I think was in Canada a few years ago .

I think mass-Hole mounted his somewhere in the right rear. I started the thread about them at that time. I will check and see if I can find the thread and post a link to it.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Wed Feb 05, 2020 5:00 am

I did some searching and here is a link to the one I posted but there are several other threads mostly around 2013. Amsoil and Filtration Specialists among others sell CRD specific kits. The big differences in these two and others is some like the Amsoil move both filters remotely and others like the FS-2500 just move the bypass filter and put a bypass supply where sensor is on front side of original oil filter housing. One of the places people use is under battery tray but honestly it looks pretty easy to mount where the fs-2500 is. One concern I have is if you were to change the bypass filter without changing the oil the lower location would be pretty messy unless you drain all the oil and put it back in which I wouldn't.

It seems all you really need is the filter itself and there are several choices and a filter head with correct threads for the filter oil line and fittings and the most important thing a flow restrictor which one thread says needs to be I think .031 inches. Here is my previous post
viewtopic.php?f=5&t=86759

Now I know why I didn't do it at the time those kits are over $500 though i think I found some in the $300 range. Many provide braided steel lines etc. It seems there should be a DIY way for about $100 just needing the restrictor piece and this would pay for itself with a couple of 20,000 or so mile oil changes not to mention time and engine wear decrease. I just think I would still want to change the oil at least every 10,000 miles.

CRD_Joe · **Posted:** Wed Feb 05, 2020 9:25 am

TKB4 wrote:

Nice pics it seems I saw pics of one very similar which I think was in Canada a few years ago .

I think mass-Hole mounted his somewhere in the right rear. I started the thread about them at that time. I will check and see if I can find the thread and post a link to it.

Thanks. There may have been pics, but she's always been a built up US truck.

geordi · **Posted:** Sun Feb 09, 2020 11:04 pm

If you install a 2 micron fuel filter you MUST have a lift pump - the CP3 cannot drag the fuel through that just by suction and you will risk the pump starving for lubrication.

A bypass oil filter sounds like a good idea on this engine, but I would also install an oil pressure gauge next to it to tell you if you are having any oil supply issues - low oil pressure is possible with this engine and that will quickly destroy it.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon Feb 10, 2020 2:16 pm

Yes if you install a 2 micron fuel filter you definitely have to have some type of lift pump but it could be as little as about $50 to put a facet pump under battery tray area but of course many other options.

From everything I have read about the oil bypass systems there is actually very little oil flowing through the bypass system due to the flow restrictor just a very small fraction of the amount of oil that the oil pump supplies since it only needs to filter the 6 quarts or so of oil once every probably say a hundred or more times that the same 6 quarts travels through the original filter to keep it much cleaner than the standard filter alone. That being said it definitely couldn't hurt to monitor the actual oil pressure and not just rely on the dash light. I don't see how this addition could help but increase longevity or save money in the long run on oil changes or both but it would need to be in use for a lot of miles say about 75 to 100 thousand before benefits cost wise for just oil changes.

Some over the road trucks are going 50 to 100,000 miles between changes but I would say thats probably stretching it a bit. I think I would just change at 20 to 25 thousand after checking oil analysis once at 20,000 miles if it was ok. I just couldn't bring myself to change at 50,000 miles or more.

geordi · **Posted:** Tue Feb 11, 2020 2:59 am

I would still be doing an oil analysis every 5k until being informed otherwise by actual data from the analysis company. The risk is just too great.

TKB4 · **Posted:** Tue Feb 11, 2020 11:30 am

Yes I probably would the first time but others have already been past 20,000. Also the lubricity of the oils we use would definitely still be adequate for 20,000 from what I have researched.

2005 CRD. Question about suggested (important) maintenance

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