fuel pump replacement

BD Williamson · **Posted:** Tue Jul 21, 2020 10:41 am

My 06 Liberty has quit on me twice in the last month, just quit going down the highway. I replaced the fuel filter the first time and after bleeding the air it started and ran for about a week or so, but very short distances. We went for a longer drive on back country roads and it quit on us again. We got rescued and the person that came to get us hammered on the tank and it started again, we towed it back home and now I am asking what should I be doing to fix this problem. It has not been ran for about 2 weeks and I just now started it with no problem, I'm confused, it has 150,500 miles on it, the timing was changed 50,000 miles ago. Need a little help here, I am moderately capable of fixing it but need some guidance
Bruce

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jul 21, 2020 12:19 pm

BD Williamson wrote:

My 06 Liberty has quit on me twice in the last month, just quit going down the highway. I replaced the fuel filter the first time and after bleeding the air it started and ran for about a week or so, but very short distances. We went for a longer drive on back country roads and it quit on us again. We got rescued and the person that came to get us hammered on the tank and it started again, we towed it back home and now I am asking what should I be doing to fix this problem. It has not been ran for about 2 weeks and I just now started it with no problem, I'm confused, it has 150,500 miles on it, the timing was changed 50,000 miles ago. Need a little help here, I am moderately capable of fixing it but need some guidance
Bruce

First recommendation, replace the crankshaft sensor if you have not already done so, they are known for going bad and not setting codes.
AutoZone (PN:SU8492) has a reboxed OEM Bosch sensor in their Duralast line, NAPA and several others also can provide sensor or it can be ordered online from IDParts or SasquatchParts

Second, install an intank low pressure fuel pump. Resolves ALL air in fuel problems for good.
See this older thread:> viewtopic.php?f=5&t=26385

This Web site walks through the steps to install an intank lift pump.
http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/default.html
Need more information or part numbers, just ask. IDParts and SasquatchParts both can supply the lift pump and wiring harness for install.

Crankshaft Position Sensor Information from FSM:

flash7210 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 21, 2020 12:27 pm

1. Did you or a previous owner install a fuel pump in the tank?
If not, then there is no pump in the tank. The CRD did not come from the factory with a pump in the tank.

2. Has the fuel filter head been replaced with the new updated version?
The factory original was prone to leaking and allowing air into the fuel system, causing the engine to run poorly and stall.
If its still the factory original filter head, start by replacing it.

3. Is the check engine light on?
If so, what are the codes?

There's still plenty more items to check but these are the best places to start.

BD Williamson · **Posted:** Tue Jul 21, 2020 2:29 pm

Ok, just to get your responses correct, I believe I am the 2nd owner of the Liberty and the previous owner was a nurse that lived in Az. so I am assuming, I know, that nothing was modified before, that being said, there is no intank fuel pump correct. Also if I go to one, what does the modification involve. I am familiar with the CPS as I used to own a F450 w/7.3 used to change one about once a year.
Is changing the OEM pump on the fire wall simply getting an updated one and installing it.
Bruce

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Jul 21, 2020 3:02 pm

BD Williamson wrote:

:?:

Ok, just to get your responses correct, I believe I am the 2nd owner of the Liberty and the previous owner was a nurse that lived in Az. so I am assuming, I know, that nothing was modified before, that being said, there is no intank fuel pump correct. Also if I go to one, what does the modification involve. I am familiar with the CPS as I used to own a F450 w/7.3 used to change one about once a year.
Is changing the OEM pump on the fire wall simply getting an updated one and installing it. Bruce

The unit on the fire wall is only the OEM filter head & assembly. This vehicle did not come from the factory with a lift pump in the tank.
It must be added by the owner to eliminate all air in fuel issues which is a common problem with age.
From the factory the CP3 injection pump has to suck the fuel all the way from the fuel tank, through the fuel filter to the back of the injection pump. Any small leak anywhere on the system will allow air to be sucked in and cause all kinds of problems with the engine running and reliability.
If you study the links I posted earlier, they will inform you of all the things involved in adding an intank lift pump. :wink:

BD Williamson · **Posted:** Tue Jul 21, 2020 6:39 pm

Thank you, the cobwebs are slowly leaving my brain, had an MRI once, they told me they couldn't find anything. Thanks again, now all I have to do is lighten my wallet. Bruce

casm · **Joined:** Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:05 pm **Posts:** 694

BD Williamson wrote:

Thank you, the cobwebs are slowly leaving my brain, had an MRI once, they told me they couldn't find anything. Thanks again, now all I have to do is lighten my wallet. Bruce

Allow me to make a recommendation if you're going the in-tank pump route: Sasquatch Parts' In-Tank Lift-Pump Adapter Harness.

You can skip it by modifying a V6 gas model harness if you're so inclined, but the Sasquatch harness makes it totally plug & play.

Whatever you do, install the harness first. That way you can concentrate on the fuel tank end of things without having to worry about the electrical part.

BD Williamson · **Posted:** Wed Jul 22, 2020 10:06 am

Thank you, plug and play at this stage of my life is good, Bruce

BD Williamson · **Posted:** Wed Jul 22, 2020 1:47 pm

Just to be sure I will do it properly, going with the in tank pump and wire harness, as per recommended, hook up wire harness first, then install pump in tank, connect wire harness. Is that it, there is nothing to do inside the engine compartment? BTW, I ordered the Sasquatch kit and harness,
Bruce

iakj11 · **Posted:** Wed Jul 22, 2020 1:58 pm

BD Williamson wrote:

Just to be sure I will do it properly, going with the in tank pump and wire harness, as per recommended, hook up wire harness first, then install pump in tank, connect wire harness. Is that it, there is nothing to do inside the engine compartment? BTW, I ordered the Sasquatch kit and harness,
Bruce

That's the install in a nutshell! If your stalling problem is related to air in fuel, the in tank pump will push fuel out of the locations that were previously sucking air in. So be sure to periodically inspect fuel lines and junctions.

gollygeemister · **Posted:** Thu Jul 23, 2020 4:37 pm

Forget the in-tank fuel pump for now. I don't know why people are steering you so hard toward a solution to a problem you may not have. And have apparently not needed for 150,000 miles

As originally posted, replace the crank position sensor!

For $50, and an hour of your time, you can probably solve the problem!

It has happened to me on another CRD and that was it. I now carry a spare under the seat. At 150k your engine is ripe for a new one of these sensors.

rankom · **Posted:** Thu Jul 23, 2020 10:04 pm

in my case why I chose to install the intank fuel pump, I was in the middle of a left turn at an intersection when the engine died due to air in the fuel system, very scary situation. so it is pricy, but the fuel intank pump is a must.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Jul 23, 2020 10:05 pm

gollygeemister wrote:

Forget the in-tank fuel pump for now. I don't know why people are steering you so hard toward a solution to a problem you may not have. And have apparently not needed for 150,000 miles
As originally posted, replace the crank position sensor!
For $50, and an hour of your time, you can probably solve the problem!
It has happened to me on another CRD and that was it. I now carry a spare under the seat. At 150k your engine is ripe for a new one of these sensors.

The crank sensor was the first recommendation.
The intank fuel pump install was the second recommendation IF based on the fact he determined he was having AIR IN FUEL issues.
Both are solid recommendations and good advice/repairs for well known problems with these unique vehicles.

Of course it is always best to determine the root cause of a problem before simply throwing parts at it when you can.
And BTY, you cannot find an OEM Bosch CPS for $50 bucks anymore anywhere, they have doubled in price. :lol:

TURBO-DIESEL-FREAK · **Joined:** Sat Apr 17, 2010 3:29 pm **Posts:** 1167

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BD Williamson · **Posted:** Sat Jul 25, 2020 3:35 pm

Parts are in the mail, ha ha. It has been my experience with the CPS of the 7.3 of Ford that when the CPS went bad, that was it, replacement time. Now it seems that on the Liberty once it fails it can work
again, am I not reading this correctly. My Liberty quit on me twice, once probably my fault, dirty fuel filter and after replacing it started and ran until it quit this time and like I indicated in original post after severe banging on fuel tank, it started. I am waiting for parts therefor I have not been operating it, where we live is pretty remote and a vehicle failure is not recommended. So, all that to ask am I correct about the CPS, if it has failed change it Bruce

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Jul 25, 2020 4:07 pm

BD Williamson wrote:

Parts are in the mail, ha ha. It has been my experience with the CPS of the 7.3 of Ford that when the CPS went bad, that was it, replacement time. Now it seems that on the Liberty once it fails it can work
again, am I not reading this correctly. My Liberty quit on me twice, once probably my fault, dirty fuel filter and after replacing it started and ran until it quit this time and like I indicated in original post after severe banging on fuel tank, it started. I am waiting for parts therefor I have not been operating it, where we live is pretty remote and a vehicle failure is not recommended. So, all that to ask am I correct about the CPS, if it has failed change it Bruce

What parts did you order?
Crank sensor is a very good first replacement item to try.

If you ordered an intank fuel pump and wiring harness, it is an excellent upgrade. Air in fuel issues will be gone forever!
If installing an intank fuel pump, be sure and inspect and clean out your fuel tank while you got it dropped and replace the fuel filter again to be on the safe side. :wink:

CATCRD · **Posted:** Sat Jul 25, 2020 6:54 pm

Banging on the fuel tank had nothing to do with it restarting. There is nothing in there but a level sensor in a factory CRD. I have owned 2 of them and currently maintain 3 of them. One does not have a lift pump. Does it run any different from the other two? No. Thousands of CRDs are running without one. And there is no way I would put one in the tank. When it dies, you're calling a tow truck. Putting a lift pump in the tank is creating a potential problem that you can't solve on the trail or the side of the road. It won't suck through the dead pump. Tiny air bubbles coming into the lines between the tank and engine bay are no big deal as long as your lift pump is providing positive head to the filter and CP3.

layback40 · **Posted:** Sat Jul 25, 2020 7:01 pm

BD Williamson wrote:

Parts are in the mail, ha ha. It has been my experience with the CPS of the 7.3 of Ford that when the CPS went bad, that was it, replacement time. Now it seems that on the Liberty once it fails it can work
again, am I not reading this correctly. My Liberty quit on me twice, once probably my fault, dirty fuel filter and after replacing it started and ran until it quit this time and like I indicated in original post after severe banging on fuel tank, it started. I am waiting for parts therefor I have not been operating it, where we live is pretty remote and a vehicle failure is not recommended. So, all that to ask am I correct about the CPS, if it has failed change it Bruce

An old trick for a failing CPC is to pour cold water on it. If its a broken internal connection the cooling down some times does a temporary fix until it warms up again.
Air leaks some times show as needing to prime after the jeep has been stopped over night.
There maybe a small strainer in the tank that has crud on it. That would cause the banging on the tank to work. You may have a bug problem in your fuel.
Did you cut open the filter for a look? Black crud is a sure sign. May be worth a dose of Seafoam to kill any fuel bugs.
Good Luck & stay safe!

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sat Jul 25, 2020 8:24 pm

CATCRD wrote:

And there is no way I would put one in the tank. When it dies, you're calling a tow truck. Putting a lift pump in the tank is creating a potential problem that you can't solve on the trail or the side of the road. It won't suck through the dead pump. Tiny air bubbles coming into the lines between the tank and engine bay are no big deal as long as your lift pump is providing positive head to the filter and CP3.

CATCRD is suggesting to use a in-line fuel pump. Instead of a in-tank pump.
Which will work just fine.
I use a Facet 40109 pump. Has worked great for many years.

Personally, I would take a hard look at the fuel filter head before installing a fuel pump.

BD Williamson · **Posted:** Tue Jul 28, 2020 10:47 am

Thanks to all that replied, as said in previous post, I am waiting on parts from Sasquatch,
supposedly the beginning of Aug. I haven't taken anything apart yet so I don't know what I will be in for but with the advice I have been given the green machine should be on the road soon. Thanks again, love this site, Bruce

fuel pump replacement

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