The Money Pit Deepens...

sportsbud · **Posted:** Sun May 03, 2020 7:44 pm

Just frustrated (and broke)... Bought an 05' CRD with pretty low miles (123k) going into it I knew it some transmission issues (tossing codes and hard shifting).... Well realized it was ran super low on fluid and had been overheating for an unknown amount of time and would toss a P0700 and P0714 code and go in and out of limp mode.... It also had a stock TC that was on it's way out. (A plus was a Weeks EGR kit, silicone hoses, pretty new hubs and misc things done to it)

Well after saving a bit I decided that that due to that low fluid for an unknown amount of time I just could not trust the whole thing... So ordered a StreetSmart reman transmission... Fast service and a shop installed it quick and had me back on the road code free!!! Well the TCC issue reared it's ugly head... I could get it to shudder under lockup with anything more than a light touch at 51-54mph... any inclines made it worse (still %100 better than the old unit). So put in a warranty claim.

So beings the next stage... Took it to a different shop than install as the other shop was closed due to COVID... Shop found that the TCM was tossing an internal code for low line pressure and fit an old TSB (DOM driven) and apparently the TCM was faulty and needed replacement... So that was a grand there... But did not fix the TCC issue... After narrowing down to either the front pump or TCC StreetSmart is sending a whole new transmission... But since they only pay for $50 and hour labor I will be on the hook for about half the labor of the install... (I swear if this does the same thing I am going to be so freaking pissed)

Yesterday got a call and email (pictures attached) tranny was dropped and rear main seal is toast... Man this won't end... I just want to drive this thing... I still need to tires and suspension and new LCAs are sitting in the box at my house...

Just had to rant... Oh so much... Now where is my beer...

flash7210 · **Posted:** Sun May 03, 2020 8:40 pm

I’d like to know how they determined the TCM was bad.
Low line pressure could actually be low line pressure or a bad line pressure sensor.
Symptoms of low line pressure include:
Soft, lazy shifts
Torque converter shudder!

If you hadn’t already noticed the rear main seal leak, I wouldn’t worry about it.
And if that shop has never replaced the RMS on a CRD, don’t let them.
It’s unique.

Ive had a RMS leak for over 100k miles.
It never drips on the driveway.
The rate of oil loss is not enough for me to worry about.

sportsbud · **Posted:** Mon May 04, 2020 2:58 am

The shop has been in business for 40 years and has worked on anything and everything and has top of the line equipment. I would rather get the RMS taken care of when the tranny is already out as it's one less thing to worry about.

There is an old TSB about certain date range TCMs I have to see if I can dig it up. But also I started to notice the occasion no shift that required a restart to clear so it was definitely going out...

http://www.wjjeeps.com/tsb/tsb_wj_08016 ... 42SnoNqmGY

BTW my TCM was in the date range....

TKB4 · **Posted:** Mon May 04, 2020 4:01 am

I will almost guarantee you the shop has not replaced a rear main seal on a CRD with only !4,000 or so sold in the US and maybe 1/3 of them ever had transmission replaced and probably only 500 or less with a rear main seal problem. I do see the desire to replace it while its apart though. Sometimes fixing something that isn't absolutely necessary is opening a new can of worms.

I would definitely get something specific in writing guaranteeing the work and the labor if there is a problem from replacing it.

sportsbud · **Posted:** Mon May 04, 2020 11:34 am

TKB4 wrote:

I will almost guarantee you the shop has not replaced a rear main seal on a CRD with only !4,000 or so sold in the US and maybe 1/3 of them ever had transmission replaced and probably only 500 or less with a rear main seal problem. I do see the desire to replace it while its apart though. Sometimes fixing something that isn't absolutely necessary is opening a new can of worms.

I would definitely get something specific in writing guaranteeing the work and the labor if there is a problem from replacing it.

The shop is ASE certified and has a warranty on all of their work. My family has been doing business with them for years as well. I am at the point were I can't stop with what I am doing and must just keep going... I will monitor it when I get it back for issues... PMCS is drilled into my head from years of doing it with HUMVEES that are far bigger POS's than this thing...

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon May 04, 2020 3:43 pm

I would question your shop heavily on replacing the rear main seal on this engine, it is very unique due to it's crankshaft thrust shim rear location and rear crankshaft support due to the engine's unique block design.
Some on LOST have reported having a seal still leaking or even leaking much worse after replacing it.
A couple have even reported their engine crankshaft was locked up after replacing the rear main seal and not getting the thrust shim/washers put back in the correct configuration.
A few have also had some real issues getting the bolts out of the flex plate! They have torx head on them.
You can do a search on LOST history to read about these issues.

Go to section 9 - page 209 in the 2005 Factory Service Manual and read trough all the details of removing and installing the rear main seal and crankshaft rear support plate.
It is quite complex, involving painting alignment marks before disassembly and realigning all the components very carefully and correct when reassembling.
http://www.colorado4wheel.com/manuals/J ... Manual.pdf
You may want to ask your ASE certified mechanic to review this manual on line before tackling the job because more than likely, he has never seen anything like this before!

Some here on LOST are only trying to warn you of the possible dangers involved with dealing with this unique seal and it's idiosyncrasies.
Good luck
:POPCORN:

flash7210 · **Posted:** Mon May 04, 2020 4:39 pm

Former 63 series mechanic here.

Just want to reiterate all the above.

The M998 is a heck of a lot easier to repair and get parts for.
(Yes. I still prefer the CRD)

sportsbud · **Posted:** Tue May 05, 2020 9:53 am

I have been in contact with the mechanic and quizzed him on it all. They have been reviewing the manual and feel confident they can do it right...

Also my 998s are gone... 1061s now... You can buy the 998s on the surplus market for about the cost of a CRD lol.

sportsbud · **Posted:** Mon Jun 01, 2020 9:16 pm

Got it back. Needed they also put in a new battery and did the oil change for me. They wrote that they flashed the PCM but it felt pretty darn sluggish and blew more black smoke than I liked so I have flashed it back to a Nicks stage 1 and the tranny is not shuddering but stage 2 has an every so slight shudder so that is my current limit it seems until I splurge on a TC in the future. Sadly the TCM appears to be to F37 standards as it locks at 51mph not 46mph... Now it needs suspension... Hmm... stock replacement and a spacer lift or full OME or Rockfather? It's $500 vs $1500 as I would want to get the better UCAs as well.

Also Monday it goes in for the Rear LCA recall but still need to replace the rear UCA.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Mon Jun 01, 2020 10:15 pm

sportsbud wrote:

Also Monday it goes in for the Rear LCA recall but still need to replace the rear UCA.

If you would like something much better than the flimsy OEM rear upper control arm? It will be the last time you ever have to replace it.
See this:> viewtopic.php?f=169&t=90867

The Money Pit Deepens...

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