Synthetic Oil and 4x4 differential fluid: Questions

zoso7374 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 04, 2009 2:26 pm

tools113 wrote:

http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/api_comparative_motor_oil_testing.htm

Looking through that link I would say that Mobil 1 is cost effective in relation to the others. I would also question the credibility of a site that is selling AMSOIL. But I think between ease of purchase and cost, I would go with Mobil 1 or Castrol Syntech. $30 if I do it myself. Is it difficult to change out differential fluid?

Also, I am pretty easy on my KK. Mostly highway miles with the occasional beach driving in the warmer seasons.

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 04, 2009 8:13 pm

it's not difficult to change out the fluid, abeit it's easier for the front than the rear

for the rear you may consider a lubelocker gasket for the rear diff cover, they claim it's reuseable many times, i won't support this claim directly, however I will tell you that when i put the lube locker gasket on mine when I put on the rockcrusher diff cover, it has yet to have seeped a single drop of fluid. I torqued the bolts down like it suggested, sprayed off my own created mess, added the fluid and it's held just fine

if the gasket indeed holds up like they claim, it'll be much more enjoyable to change the rear fluid

17 bucks was worth it to me to not have to spread on gasket goo and clean off gasket goo

i hate gasket goo

Mike08Liberty · **Posted:** Thu Mar 05, 2009 9:30 am

tools113 wrote:

http://www.smartsynthetics.com/articles/api_comparative_motor_oil_testing.htm

That isn't bias to AMSOIL at all ........ give me a break.

Look at the top of the page "Buy your AMSOIL synthetic motor oils, lubricants, oil filters, and all other AMSOIL car-care products here."

How did you think the test were going to come out ...

No one said that Mobil 1 is the be all end all but there is a reason why Mercedes-Benz, Porsche, SRT-8s and Vipers, Corvettes, Cadillac, Aston Martin and the newest addition to the list ... the Nissan GT-R plus others come factory fill with Mobil 1 and dealer mandatory oil change with Mobil 1.
Here's a list ... http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot ... bil_1.aspx

DID YOU KNOW ... Most AMSOIL products and some Castrol Products are made by ExxonMobil.

So that bias website you linked to that shows AMSOIL at the top of every list actually means that ExxonMobil is at the top of every list ...

tools113 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 06, 2009 9:15 am

they are also not using the standard Moldil 1 Synthetic. All the cars that you listed use the extended formula Mobil 1. which is far better than the standard.

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 06, 2009 9:22 am

Option A:
use your favorite slippery stuff inside the 710 pan, turn key, press brake, put into gear, tag brake, floor the skinny pedal, smoke rear tires and

Drive.

Option B:
use your favorite slippery stuff inside the 710 pan, depress clutch, turn key, release e-brake, insert shift selecter into appropriate gear, increase rpms to appropriate level, sidestep clutch, smoke rear tires, shift and

Drive.

Mike08Liberty · **Posted:** Fri Mar 06, 2009 1:46 pm

tools113 wrote:

they are also not using the standard Moldil 1 Synthetic. All the cars that you listed use the extended formula Mobil 1. which is far better than the standard.

Actually Mercedes, Porsche, Corvettes, Vipers and a few others have been using Mobil 1 far before the Extended Perfromance oil came out.

tools113 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 06, 2009 10:11 pm

just go with what Jeepinjabberhead says and we will all be happy

tools113 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 06, 2009 10:31 pm

i'm sorry that's Jeepinjarhead.

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Sat Mar 07, 2009 12:38 am

I like it the first way :lol:

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Sat Mar 07, 2009 1:00 am

ok now for some thing use full :lol:

Going back to the OP and how long to run. The best way to judge is to pull oil samples and have it analyzed. Most places charge 10 to 15 bucks. At work, we rely on SOS's (scheduled Oil Samples). SOS's are a huge diagnostic tool for use. Now normal drain intervals for CAT machines are 250 hours for engine oil, 1000 hours for transmissions and 2000 hours for diff and hydraulic systems. Now, with SOS support, a customer can increase the normal drain interval for engine oil out to 500 hours and extend hydraulic oil changes out to 4000 hours. Now I know most of this doesn't apply to KK's at all but in the end, a 10 dollar oil sample can save you huge money. For example a CAT 345 excavator holds 13 gallons of engine oil and 75 gallons of hydraulic oil. So over a 4000 hour period or 2 years, you can reduce your cost by 1900 dollars by spending 20 bucks for 2 oil samples every month.

* engine oil price 9.65 a gallon, hydraulic oil 10.61 a gallon, and engine oil filter 21 bucks

ok... that was way more than i was planing to write. back to the topic

if you purchase a oil sample pump you can sample your diff or what ever other compartment you want

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 07, 2009 1:08 am

I appologize if it disrupted your 'rooster' fight over what was or wasn't ran in some peugeot or opal :wink:

In all seriousness, if you're interested in oil tidbits about.. for instance Mobil from someone other than Mobil or a competitor with specifics.. such as UOA's or what not check out bobistheoilguy.com

I'm assuming bitog is independent, the site setup sort of reminds me of some kind of LOST of motor oil.

I don't know what the site says about Mobil or any other brand for that matter, I just know it's highly revered by many people around here as a source.

Fair enough? Tool?

To_The_Max · **Posted:** Sat Mar 07, 2009 8:18 am

Since the KK is backed by the "Lifetime Powertrain Warranty" and it states in the owners manual that "...under no circumstances should oil change intervals exceed 6000 miles or 6 months..." :roll:

, shouldn't the oil changes (when using synthetic) be not greater than every 6000 miles or 6 months to prevent issues with the warranty

Mike08Liberty · **Posted:** Sat Mar 07, 2009 9:02 am

If we did everything the manual recommends we would be in the shop every other month for something. Also the dealer has no way of telling how long you have gone in between oil changes unless you go to them for the change. I so that whole 6K or 6 month does really apply.

Here is Mobil's 15K/1Yr warranty ... So if the dealer will only go to 6/6 mobil got ya to 15/1
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/Mot ... ranty.aspx

To_The_Max · **Posted:** Sat Mar 07, 2009 11:15 am

Quote:

ExxonMobil guarantees that the Mobil 1 Extended Performance lubricant you purchased will protect your vehicle’s critical engine parts from oil related failure for 15,000 miles or 1 year, which ever comes first. If not, provided the engine was serviceable at the time the oil was installed, ExxonMobil will have your vehicle repaired and replace the oil at no cost to you. Be advised that if your vehicle is covered by a warranty, you should follow the vehicle's oil life sensor or the oil change interval recommended in your owner's manual to avoid a disruption in your vehicle warranty.

This tells me if the dealer denies your warranty claim, because you went over the interval time for oil changes, you have to go to ExxonMobil to fight for your warranty claim. Now, when/if ExxonMobil does an oil analysis and finds their oil to not be defective, they will rebut your claim saying the oil did not cause the damage. Now you have to go back to Jeep for your warranty claim but it is now VOID due to extended interval oil changes. :shock:

Is it worth the few extra dollars saved? Estimating on the high side, let's say an oil change costs $40 depending on the synthetic oil you use. You will do one oil change/year as opposed to the owners manual guidelines of twice a year. Now, multiply that by say 10 years and you save $400.

Now, since Exxon denies your claim as well as Jeep, how much will it cost to rebuild the engine? Bet it will be over $400. :cry:

So, for my own piece of mind, I feel the max to change oil is 6000 miles or 6 months. I do agree with you this is over kill because with today's advanced oils it can go longer but until the manufacturers get the same mentality :roll:

, you're better safe to change more often now then pay later.

As for knowing when you change your oil, you can tell/show the dealer the receipts from the oil/filters purchased. So many receipts divided by mileage should give a round about figure as to how often one changes their oil.

To_The_Max · **Posted:** Sat Mar 07, 2009 11:26 am

deleted

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 07, 2009 12:36 pm

There are plenty of 'non-oil breakdown' related reasons to change your oil regularly

I'm sorry, I don't care what kind of 50 dollar oil filter someone wants to buy - change that *#&% every 6k or less, ATLEAST the filter

Mike08Liberty · **Posted:** Sat Mar 07, 2009 8:18 pm

Here is one example ... We have a 2000 Lexus LX470 that we've owned since day one. The truck currently has over 250,000 miles on it. We change the oil every 12-15K using Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 oil filter. There are NO engine knocks, pings or any other noises coming from it. There is no smoke coming from the exhaust or engine. Even in the cold after its been sitting for a few days it stars right up. It runs and pulls just as hard as it did on day one.

From experience ... I'll stick with Mobil 1 every 12/15k

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Sun Mar 08, 2009 3:38 am

Well.. we definatly aren't wishing you a bad experience Mike, i certainly hope you have the same experience with your Jeep!

wingnuts · **Posted:** Wed Apr 01, 2009 9:16 pm

Mike08Liberty wrote:

Here is one example ... We have a 2000 Lexus LX470 that we've owned since day one. The truck currently has over 250,000 miles on it. We change the oil every 12-15K using Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 oil filter. There are NO engine knocks, pings or any other noises coming from it. There is no smoke coming from the exhaust or engine. Even in the cold after its been sitting for a few days it stars right up. It runs and pulls just as hard as it did on day one.

From experience ... I'll stick with Mobil 1 every 12/15k

OK i just have to point this out, but you live in FL, how cold can it be? and the coldness of oil has nothing to do with it starting, it is just the thicker the oil is the longer you are running an engine with limited protection

Mike08Liberty · **Posted:** Wed Apr 01, 2009 10:07 pm

wingnuts wrote:

Mike08Liberty wrote:

Here is one example ... We have a 2000 Lexus LX470 that we've owned since day one. The truck currently has over 250,000 miles on it. We change the oil every 12-15K using Mobil 1 and a Mobil 1 oil filter. There are NO engine knocks, pings or any other noises coming from it. There is no smoke coming from the exhaust or engine. Even in the cold after its been sitting for a few days it stars right up. It runs and pulls just as hard as it did on day one.

From experience ... I'll stick with Mobil 1 every 12/15k

OK i just have to point this out, but you live in FL, how cold can it be? and the coldness of oil has nothing to do with it starting, it is just the thicker the oil is the longer you are running an engine with limited protection

The Lexus is in NY so yes it gets very cold. Also I'm in north Florida and this past winter it got down to single digits. We had a really cold winter. Yes the cold has some to do with it starting. When the temp drops to 0 or below and the engine hasn't been turned over in a few days the oil will thickin and in an older engine that already has wear and tear startup tends to be a little difficult. There wasn't any issues with the Mobil 1.

Synthetic Oil and 4x4 differential fluid: Questions

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