Leveling out the front and rear?

Trauma5951 · **Joined:** Thu Apr 15, 2010 12:11 pm **Posts:** 96

Im a bit of a newb with this stuff, very mechanically inclined but i never actually did this particular thing to a car and my knowledge is limited.

What i want to do, is level out the front with the back. I believe i need spacers for the front? I just hate the way it looks sitting on an angle all the time.

Is this is a difficult do it yourself install? I have every mechanics tool i could need.

TAHOE · **Posted:** Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:14 pm

It's not that hard, just need the proper knowledge :mrgreen:

You can basically do it two ways, on the top spacer or a clevis lift. With the OTT, you have to pull the spring/shock assembly down and you put a spacer in between top plate and mount, do a search for spacer, boiler shims, etc. The other way is the clevis lift ( I think there is a sticky on that one too) in which you remove bottom of the shock/strut assembly where it mounts onto the fork like piece or "clevis" then you put some 2" electrical nut rings over the bottom of the shock/on top of the clevis. Either one of these will net you 1/2 -1 " of lift giving you that leveled look you want.

DirtyKK · **Posted:** Wed Apr 28, 2010 12:21 pm

These Boiler's Shims seem to be doing the trick. viewtopic.php?f=34&t=47813

check out this thread with some KKs with the shims... viewtopic.php?f=88&t=52217

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Wed Apr 28, 2010 1:42 pm

I think the OTT is your best bet. If you need a little more, you can always do the clevis lift.

bigsrturbo · **Posted:** Wed Apr 28, 2010 7:35 pm

Yea do the boiler shims it gave me almost a inch in the front and looks way better....even feels better driving it around town And for 48 bucks they rock...

Trauma5951 · **Joined:** Thu Apr 15, 2010 12:11 pm **Posts:** 96

will this void any warranties?

How hard of an install 1-10 i guess is the OTT one?

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Wed Apr 28, 2010 11:46 pm

Trauma5951 wrote:

will this void any warranties?

How hard of an install 1-10 i guess is the OTT one?

That really depends on the dealer you go to. Some will accept it while other are a no go.

I'd put it at a 4.5. Yet again, I have ripped my front end apart so many times that I need my feet to help me count :ROTFL:

DirtyKK · **Posted:** Thu Apr 29, 2010 1:25 am

i bet your dealership wouldnt even be able to tell if all you did was them spacers

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Thu Apr 29, 2010 1:33 am

DirtyKK wrote:

i bet your dealership wouldnt even be able to tell if all you did was them spacers

Yeah, spacers with out the RK lift wouldn't even go noticed!

bigsrturbo · **Posted:** Thu Apr 29, 2010 12:52 pm

yea like digger said about a 4.5 it takes longer to remove the batt and move the fuse block to the side than it does to take the susp apart and put it back together lol

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Thu Apr 29, 2010 3:05 pm

If you ever do new aftermarket UCA's it brings it to a 6.0~7.0 because of the bolt locations and the fact that it makes it easier with two people helping instead of one.

DirtyKK · **Posted:** Thu Apr 29, 2010 6:07 pm

Yeah that rear uca bolt on the driver side is a pain in the arse :evil:

Worst part is definitely undoing the battery tray and all that cluster f#ck though

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon May 03, 2010 9:37 am

Trauma
What year KK do you have?
The top plates are your best bet, have to watch the newer ones ( 2011's??) with "new, improved and revised" Clevis' when doing a clevis lift.
They sure don't look as strong as the old cast ones. I would almost be afraid to do a clevis on them.

Leveling out the front and rear?

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