Just wanted to get the obvious out of the way first: before a new alignment, the Jeep will drive all squirrely. You did get it aligned after putting on the lift, right?

Take a tape measure and measure from the center of the wheel up to the bottom of the front fender flare. Since the stock distance is about 18 inches, if you are at 4 inches of lift you should be at 22 in the front. That is too high to go without modified upper control arms, but the stock arms should still be ok at 2-2.5 inches of lift. If you are indeed up at 4 inches, that could explain the contact and the poor alignment.

Skyjacker is all spring.

I installed Sky Jackers 2.5" lift kit. it turned out to lift my front 4 inches and my rear 3 inches. drive shaft angles seem ok. but my main question was is their any kit or manufacturer that produces a Rack and Pinion mount for a steering dampener. the larger tires I had installed 2 weeks ago just grab these potholes here in Pennsylvania. Sky Jacker had failed to mention that a stabilizer would be recommended for comfortable steering. as well as the tie rod is to low. when at full lock the tie rod is pushed down and pulls the front end down with it. the knuckles are rubbing somehow on the lower control arm.

Sounds like you have some issues that are not common when lifted
*If aligned correctly should be no unusual steering etc on the highway
**Also shouldn't have any contact of the knuckles on the LCAs.
***Like mentioned "true" measurements middle of wheel to bottom of flare
****Did you add anything to the lift such as a clevis or top plate
*****Are you positive the alignment was done right
******Did you or someone else actually install the lift

here are the most recent photos of my Jeep.


http://ryantechtips.wix.com/rtphotography#!car/c1vm

The picture you show of the LCA/ spindle concerns me since it almost seems like the LBJ is allowing it to move. When you turn all the way it should hit in one spot , not be rubbing up and down like it seems it is. Have you checked the ball joints really good ?

The knuckle rubbing is the driving at full lock, the knuckle braces against the LCA. You got 3.25" on the front so you have maxed out your stock shocks with out a doubt (mine were too on my old Daystar, same components just a different name). Check between your clevis and spring perch on your front struts to see if there is a gap (I.E. the "clevis lift") if so there's your extra lift.

Sure there is going to be rubbing ( between spindle and LCA ) at full lock but never seen one that had up and down movement like that before.
Agree his stock shocks have to be bad plus the fact a spacer lift maxes them out. Part of the reason so many have their front shocks blow out when using a spacer lift

I know this all too well after my Daystar. After two months my shocks were dead and it was scaring the s!@# out of my passengers when hitting bumps and the tire bounces a couple a times and sounds like it's going to fall off...

The rubbing might be caused when he is turning and because of his high lift his camber isn't quite up to par and causing his wheel to "hop" as if in 4WD. Mine did that until I got an alignment.

as mentioned above, the alignment was done by a reputable shop, and the alignment was probably put to factory spec. am I missing something? is there any difference with factory alignment spec versus them just aligning it? im pretty confused about that part.

my jeep has only been off road for, lets say 100 or less miles before the lift, and currently has under 22k miles on it. the lift was installed at 21k miles.

Depending on the height, some shops can't get them in. I know the Firestone by me couldn't do it when I sat at 22"(4" of lift). A week later, everything settled in and I sat at 21.5"(3.5" of lift) and they got it mostly in, but some parts are maxed. I believe my caster is out, cross caster is fine, camber is in(barely), toe is perfect etc.