Wheres my heat?

frankay213 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 12:28 pm

2011 KK Sport. Now that its cold out there, we've been blasting the heat constantly. I noticed at the end of Fall that there was very little heat on the drivers side. I did a core flush and it seemed to get a little better, but I didn't get a lot of debris when I flushed. Not sure if I did it right, to be honest. I'm not sure which is the inlet or outlet..

Anyway, I've noticed that at certain positions, the air is warmer than others. I have no heat at all on the drivers floor. I have a lot of heat out of the face vents, except for the one all the way to sid next to the window, and I have some heat on the windshield, but its hotter on the passenger side.

I cant imagine this it s heater core issue, since I am getting heat on the passengers side. When I adjust the temp control, I do see the gears moving under the dash. Has anyone else experienced this?

PALiftedKK · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 12:55 pm

I guess I have a similar issue. when it is very cold outside and I just start up my jeep, ill have the heat "on"; ittl be on for a good 10 minutes (by then the engine is hot) and it will still be blowing cold air. the only work around I found worked every time was moving the temp dial from hot to cold then back to hot again. ill do that every morning before I head off to work just to make sure im getting hot air.

my KK is very strange with the vents as well. the air has always come out of all the vents just like a gasket leak or something, but that doesn't bother me much. the way I look at it is if its cold out I better be warm and if its hot out I better be cold!

by the way, have the filters been changed?

I have carbon filters on mine. their great!

not sure if this helped in any way

frankay213 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 1:26 pm

Hmm, i might try that hold/cold/hot trick.

It was a strange series of events. First, my water pump went, so i took it in for replacement. The dealer did their 99-point check and found the filters were just about black. I swapped them out for some standard STP filters. It was after that it started getting cold out and I noticed the heating issue. I don't even run the A/C sometimes because i have the SkyView roof. I wish there was a way to open it in the winter and stay warm.

Bmxer524 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 1:34 pm

frankay213 wrote:

Hmm, i might try that hold/cold/hot trick.

It was a strange series of events. First, my water pump went, so i took it in for replacement. The dealer did their 99-point check and found the filters were just about black. I swapped them out for some standard STP filters. It was after that it started getting cold out and I noticed the heating issue. I don't even run the A/C sometimes because i have the SkyView roof. I wish there was a way to open it in the winter and stay warm.

I can open my sky slider and stay warm...but I also have heat :jester:

PALiftedKK · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 2:01 pm

easy fix for the sky slider.... chop it off and put glass in place. im glad I don't have one! the solar panel would completely cover it up! and if you do a roll over test on that kk with the skyslider, man are you going to be crushed!

PALiftedKK · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 2:04 pm

and does the fan blow out very strong air when on full blast? from those filters, the blower may have been damaged. take a multi meter to the blower contacts and check if there's a good bit of resistance on the coil. im not sure what the resistance should be but it should be above .40 ohms. if its below .29 ohms, that blower is toast and a major fire hazard.

http://www.brianmorristech.com/how-to-fix-jeep-liberty-blower-motor-resistor/

NAMoulton1 · **Joined:** Tue Aug 12, 2014 7:01 pm **Posts:** 1054

PALiftedKK wrote:

easy fix for the sky slider.... chop it off and put glass in place. im glad I don't have one! the solar panel would completely cover it up! and if you do a roll over test on that kk with the skyslider, man are you going to be crushed!

Our roofs don't really hold any structural value...a Skyslider roof is just as strong as a stock roof (when laying the Jeep upside...). Only time a stock roof would be stronger would be falling rocks...even then a stock roof is anything but durable 1/4" steel...so a rock may pierce the roof anyways.

PALiftedKK · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 2:20 pm

NAMoulton1 wrote:

PALiftedKK wrote:

easy fix for the sky slider.... chop it off and put glass in place. im glad I don't have one! the solar panel would completely cover it up! and if you do a roll over test on that kk with the skyslider, man are you going to be crushed!

Our roofs don't really hold any structural value...a Skyslider roof is just as strong as a stock roof (when laying the Jeep upside...). Only time a stock roof would be stronger would be falling rocks...even then a stock roof is anything but durable 1/4" steel...so a rock may pierce the roof anyways.

Id feel safer with a solid roof consisting of the 1/4" metal roof versus a canvas roof in any situation.

frankay213 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 3:17 pm

PALiftedKK wrote:

and does the fan blow out very strong air when on full blast? from those filters, the blower may have been damaged. take a multi meter to the blower contacts and check if there's a good bit of resistance on the coil. im not sure what the resistance should be but it should be above .40 ohms. if its below .29 ohms, that blower is toast and a major fire hazard.

http://www.brianmorristech.com/how-to-fix-jeep-liberty-blower-motor-resistor/

You just reminded me. BEFORE the water pump blew, the blower fan was making a weird noise, than seized up. I replaced it. The dirty filters probably killed the motor.

PALiftedKK · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 3:19 pm

there ya go. 30 bucks or so on amazon. buy the same exact blower as before and take a reading from them. if their the same ohms, youll have an extra for a rainy day. if not replace it.

again, does the air come out at a high velocity when the dial is on full blast?

frankay213 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 4:05 pm

Yeah, i got mine for like $50 from some mom and pop shop in TX

Yes, I have fully blasting air.

PALiftedKK · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 4:13 pm

ok. give the dial trick I had mentioned before. get the jeep up to comfortable operating temps and go back and forth with the temp dial. let it get cool for 2 seconds, then turn it to hot for the same amount of time. do that for a couple of passes. maybe there's a build up of something solid by the valve door. I wouldn't see that being possible since you recently flushed the core. and speaking about flushing the core, did you burp the loop?

frankay213 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 4:45 pm

No, I must not have burped the loop because I dont know what that means

Scar0 · **Posted:** Fri Jan 16, 2015 9:58 pm

There is no hot/cold coolant valve. The temp control is done by the use of a blend Air door.
PALiftedKK it sounds like your blend door has something sticky on it.
The only fix for no heat on the drivers side is a heater core flush, or multiple flushes in both directions. If that does not do it, then a new core is needed.
Do not do a full system flush unless you clamp off the heater core hoses. The heater core has the smallest ports in it so it takes very little to clog them up. 1 tablespoon of crud is enough to cause the heat to go away on the drivers side.

frankay213 · **Posted:** Mon Jan 19, 2015 10:24 am

Could you explain why a bad or clogged core would only affect some of the vents and not all of them. I could probably live with it, but I need heat on my feet and ankles.

Scar0 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 20, 2015 6:55 am

The core sits at a slight angle cross wise in the HVAC unit. The hoses come in and out on the passenger side. The drivers side gets clogged because of how the coolant flows through the core. The debris in the coolant hits the far side of the core and settles.
Directly above the core there is a divider for the air flow. This divider splits the air to the drivers side and passenger side. Because the drivers side of the core is partially blocked the amount of heat radiating from that side of the core is less. Add that to the air divider splitting the air right above the core, and the drivers side is not as warm as the passenger side.
If all the air is burped out of the system, then the core is partially blocked with crud.
Remember to only use HOAT antifreeze.

Owners Manual wrote:

CAUTION!
• Mixing of engine coolant (antifreeze) other than specified HOAT engine coolant (antifreeze), may result in engine damage and may decrease corrosion protection. If a non-HOAT engine coolant (antifreeze) is introduced into the cooling system in an emergency, it should be replaced with the specified engine coolant (antifreeze) as soon as possible.
• Do not use water alone or alcohol-based engine coolant (antifreeze) products. Do not use additional rust inhibitors or antirust products, as they may not be compatible with the radiator engine coolant and may plug the radiator.
• This vehicle has not been designed for use with Propylene Glycol based engine coolant (antifreeze). Use of Propylene Glycol based engine coolant (antifreeze) is not recommended.

frankay213 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 20, 2015 3:40 pm

Okay, well that makes sense. Whats the proper way to burp the system? I have a feeling thats what it is since i didnt really get too much dirt when i flushed the core.

PALiftedKK · **Posted:** Tue Jan 20, 2015 4:46 pm

frankay213 wrote:

Okay, well that makes sense. Whats the proper way to burp the system? I have a feeling thats what it is since i didnt really get too much dirt when i flushed the core.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=72588

Scar0 · **Posted:** Tue Jan 20, 2015 10:27 pm

Service Manual wrote:

COOLING SYSTEM DEAERATION
Air can only be removed from the system by gathering under the pressure cap. On the next heat up it will be pushed past the pressure cap into the coolant recovery bottle by thermal expansion of the coolant. It then escapes to the atmosphere in the coolant recovery bottle and is replaced with coolant on cool down.

To effectively deaerate the system, multiple thermal cycles of the system may be required.

NOTE: Deaeration does not occur at engine idle, higher engine speeds are required. Normal driving will deaerate cooling system.

barnez224 · **Joined:** Fri Jan 19, 2007 11:28 am **Posts:** 130

I had a similar issue about a month ago that was fixed under warranty. No heat... even on milder winter days (40-50 degrees). If it was super cold, forget it, I might as well have had my window down. It never got warm. The dealer never gave me a potential root cause, but said there was a blockage and the heater core wasn't getting enough coolant. They flushed and that did the trick. They did say however, that if it reappeared in the near future, it would most likely be a heater core replacement... that would be the full on dash removal, etc. Hopefully, the problem got fixed the first time.

Wheres my heat?

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