I've been noticing when I let off the gas pedal and then accelerate again I'm feeling/hearing a clunk coming from the rear of the vehicle. I'm not sure if it's always done that and I didn't notice due to my tires being loud/music being on, or if it's a new problem. It also occurs when changing from Drive to Reverse. I'm thinking the u-joint on my rear drive might be bad, but I don't want to take the time to replace it if it might be something else. I'm not noticing any kind of vibration when driving which makes me wonder if it's not the u-joint. Any thoughts?

Joints are not replaceable drive shaft complete only.

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Hey there! Put your Jeep info here!

Not that it is any consolation, but my rig has done that since new. It's not loud or neck breaking, but it is a little annoying there is that much play in the rear diff & trany bran new.

Jack up the rear wheels, then rock the drive line back and forth by hand. You can also do the same with both rear wheels. There is play in all of them.
My "U" joints are solid.
I've heard they were made sloppy on purpose. This was to prevent immediate deceleration and acceleration with slight gas pedal changes.
In theory it helps your mileage, especially with an automatic.

Now if it is real bad, then that is entirely different.

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07 KA Light Khaki, Manual trany.
2.5" Adjust-A-Strut JBA lift, Euro taillights,
Home made; Front Tilt Hood, Roof Rack, RAM Air, & CAI.
ESP Off Switch
Take a ride on the Trō side!

Scar0, it doesn't appear to be "bad" in terms of any kind of loss in acceleration/mpg. I'm thinking I'll just jack it up and give it a feel. I'll probably just ride it out and keep tabs on if it gets worse. Thanks for the advice!

racer1, I've never heard of a universal joint that you couldn't replace. They may look that way, and be a pain to get out but if you drop the driveshaft, and take it somewhere to be pressed out, use a hefty vice, or destroy some sockets with a hammer, they can be removed and replaced. I'm pretty sure they make special C-clamp like tools that are extremely over priced for doing it as well. If you drop it and take it to a machine shop they'll probably press them out for dirt cheap.

Have a look that the U- joints. They are swedge pressed into the shaft.
Thus the need to buy a whole new shaft. No one will grind them out and put new ones in for liability reasons. The OEM U-joints don't even have zerk fittings to grease them. Only real option if you want replaceable U-joints it to go after market. That is if, and that's a BIG if, you can find someone who can make one that fits without adapters.

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07 KA Light Khaki, Manual trany.
2.5" Adjust-A-Strut JBA lift, Euro taillights,
Home made; Front Tilt Hood, Roof Rack, RAM Air, & CAI.
ESP Off Switch
Take a ride on the Trō side!

You can get a aftermarket shaft but its not cheap. And it will be stronger too!!

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk

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I am the G.O.A.T.

Thanks for the info everyone. I had my Jeep in to get inspected and asked them to take a look when they had it up on the lift to save me from having to jack it up. They said everything looked good visually/felt tight. So I don't know what's going on ha. This may have been always happening and I just never noticed it since I normally drive with the radio on.