Air intake system

jcphoto20 · **Joined:** Sun Nov 19, 2006 1:36 am **Posts:** 507

[quote="LiLredLibby"][quote="DarbyWalters"]Air Temperature, Humidity and Altitude are 3 of the major factors when it comes to making horsepower...it is just a fact of life for a combustion engine.

High Temp, High Humidity, High Altitude...less dense air so less oxygen...ie...less horsepower.[/quote]I think Darby hit the nail on the head with his three needs for more horses. Although I think the word everyone is looking for is atomization. Cold air does atomize far quicker than warm air thus ignites much more like a gas rather than a liquid.[/quote]

yes atomization is the main point, but you have it backwards, its the atomization of the fuel into the air that is the desired situation. and fuel atomizes much better in warm air than cold, since like you said it ignites more like a gas than a liquid. thats why all old cars had intake heat of some sort.

and the arguement that it makes it run leaner isnt the case with newer computer controlled vehicles, and is completely negated by the 50 or so cycles the computer uses to relearn after you reset it. you cant compare anything until you do that, you cant just switch back and forth and compare different add ons. so any immediate seat of the pants observations will be far from accurate, once the computer dials itself back in to optimal fuel mixture ratios/situations

SavageUrge · **Posted:** Thu Dec 21, 2006 5:31 pm

Lot's of good arguments and opinions well thought out there. I'm a proof positive kind of person however, so that is why I like to experiment. I've had a K&N FIPK on the Jeep for over 30,000 miles now and have not taken it off because it DOES improve mileage with very slight performance gains. If it didn't I would have taken it off. I also have had an Airaid TBS installed for about 5,000 miles and I 'm starting to think that it isn't worth a darn! When I looked at it I was skeptical because the ID of the TBS is smaller than the ID of the throttle body *RED FLAG*. I installed it and did notice a good kick between 3500 and 4000 RPM's, almost like a passing gear in an automatic (I have a 5-speed), but that's about it. No real performance or mileage gains, and now I believe the TBS is DECREASING my mileage due to decreased air intake.
I speak from experience, not theory. A theory is a hypothesis is a guess as far as I am concerned. Experiment, that's why we all have brains and why we all come to this board. To gather information so we can all figure out exactly what works and what doesn't. Theories are great conversation, but if you've never experimented with anything, you're really not speaking from experience and cheating yourself out of real knowledge.
My understanding of modern motors is that every time you turn the key (not every 50 times), it reads the temp, humidity, and other factors. This is why just about all after-market engine parts state specifically to unhook the negative battery cable prior to installing the mod. This was the first instruction for the K&N FIPK. Since electricity flows from neg. to pos. you are cutting off the elec. supply to the computer, or "brain" and therefore forcing it to reset when you rehook the neg. cable. This allows the computer to "read" the data it receives with the new mod installed to promote maximum effectiveness and performance. It does the same with the weather conditions and properly tunes the engine to that data, like a little miniature meteorology station inside your Jeep, haha.

KY Liberty · **Joined:** Sat Jul 09, 2005 1:46 pm **Posts:** 1195

Actually the PCM of the 3.7 will retard the timing when the air is hotter causing you to lose power. Unless you do something to get more cold air, the cone intakes will not make very much difference. They allow more air, but it is hotter than stock. Depending on your budget, you can do anything from a $4 cold air intake mod, to a ram-air system like mine. Also, the throttle body spacers don't seem to help. You need a Fastman throttle body. After doing mods you also need to reset the adaptives in the PCM. Just unplugging the negative won't do it. You need to disconnect the positive too. Turn the ignition to the ON position for 15 seconds. This should drain the capacitors that hold up the adatives memory. Turn it back to off and hook the battery back up. It may take up to 2 minutes to idle smoothly. Don't give it any gas until it idles well. Start out driving with a light foot or it will bog down. It will be running pretty rich. Over the next 50 warm up cycles it will reprogram itself.
[/img]

sleeve84028 · **Posted:** Thu Dec 21, 2006 8:41 pm

I think that we can all just agree to dis-agree on the whole issue... Happy Holidays!

jcphoto20 · **Joined:** Sun Nov 19, 2006 1:36 am **Posts:** 507

im just glad we live in a country where we can all make our vehicles truly ours.

MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!

wendell · **Posted:** Fri Dec 22, 2006 6:15 am

The best heat sheild is one that will seal against the hood. You take in the most hot air setting still, when moving at speed, a lot of the hot air is carried back by incomming air through the grill, not as much as we'ld like, but does to a degree. If you have a sealed heat sheild and the filter is located at the openning. The rushing incomming air at this point should be cool at speed. You shouldn't be getting a lot of hot air at the filter. However you do get heat absorbtion in the air tube it's self no matter if you have an intake or stock airbox.

Air intake system

Who is online