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PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 7:55 pm 
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Run the Amsoil full flow with an Amsoil by-pass. That would be the best setup! :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 8:10 pm 
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Onthehunt, the Wix may not be CRD specific, but neither are the Mobil 1, Purolator, Fram, Amsoil, etc... Is there a problem with using a quality oil filter designed for gasser applications in the CRD?


I don't know. I cannot find the specs for the oem filter so I can't really compare it to anything. I'm pretty sure Fram and Purolator make a crd specific filter.I actually find it funny people complain about bean counters killing the crd and then screw on some will-fit filter and call it good. If Chrysler spent the money on a different filter so will I.

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PostPosted: Sun May 11, 2008 9:25 pm 
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The valvoline 074 oil filter is another option :)

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PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2008 9:26 am 
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I urge everyone to follow the link atx posted; http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilte ... study.html

While I am not 100% on the fact that say, a m1-221 has the EXACT same qualities of the 301, i do know that among the types of filters he is comparing, mechanically, a few of them stand out.

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 Post subject: Check The Date
PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2008 12:20 pm 
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CRDMiller wrote:
I urge everyone to follow the link atx posted; http://people.msoe.edu/~yoderw/oilfilte ... study.html

While I am not 100% on the fact that say, a m1-221 has the EXACT same qualities of the 301, i do know that among the types of filters he is comparing, mechanically, a few of them stand out.


I read through the site. It was last updated in 1999 and 2000. That was a while ago. Filters change, don't they?

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PostPosted: Mon May 12, 2008 11:38 pm 
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onthehunt wrote:
I don't know. I cannot find the specs for the oem filter so I can't really compare it to anything. I'm pretty sure Fram and Purolator make a crd specific filter.I actually find it funny people complain about bean counters killing the crd and then screw on some will-fit filter and call it good. If Chrysler spent the money on a different filter so will I.


I use either Purolator PureOne or Wix Gold (supposed to be two of the best options out there in terms of size of particles filtered) in my vehicles. Both fit either the 3.7 gas or the 2.8 diesel (as well as a bunch of other Chrysler engines.) I was a little surprised by this myself when I first starting changing the oil in the Jeep.

I'm curious what would be different, other than maybe filter oil capacity? The intent of a gasser or a diesel oil filter is to take out abrasives that could increase engine wear. If anything I'd think the soot in diesel oil might mean a less effective filter (though I'd imagine the particles are so small they don't get stuck in the media of even a super tight filter like the PureOne.)

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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 11:04 am 
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Threeweight;

Even the amsoil by pass filter system does not remove the soot from our oil!

The Major diffrences between oil filters are BY-PASS witch is the pressure at witch the oil is routed AROUND the filter media (cold start of 0-40 anyone?)
The burst pressure, witch measures the pressures at witch the can or seals will be damaged.
Capacity of the filter and capacity of the filter media, the type of filter media, the flow rates of said media at different levels of cloggyness.

Then there is the valve inside the filter that keeps the crap trapped on the dirty side of the filter from DRAINING BACK into the crank or into the clean side.

Some filters have crappy valves, some have low surface area, and some have pleats that compress under high pressure, or when the filter is clogging up.

If your filter has low surface area because the pleats compressed, and the remaining area is clogged, your filter could/should by-pass witch means your not filtering at all.
If your filter has crappy drain back, then while your car is sitting there overnight, the sludge and crap that was trapped in the filter, leaks through the drain back valve and into the crank or into the clean side of the filter, and when you start your Car .. wham o.

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PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 7:27 pm 
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Amsoil Ea-034 and the SEGR...best combo...LOL

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 8:39 pm 
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CRDMiller wrote:
Threeweight;

The Major diffrences between oil filters are BY-PASS witch is the pressure at witch the oil is routed AROUND the filter media (cold start of 0-40 anyone?)



Yah yah, I get all that. My question was, what is the difference between a quality filter designed primarily for a diesel system and a filter designed primarily for a gasser? I get the issues with cheap filters.

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 Post subject: Old Diesels had lots of carbon crud requiring large ....
PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 10:07 pm 
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.... oil filters, Fuel Injected Gasser have very little carbon crud going into the oil, filter size can be smaller.

Newer Diesels have a lot less carbon crud meaning MEGA OIL FILTERS are not needed any more.

Dyno testing is the best way to determine if the filters are acceptable.

It is time to ask MrMopar if the stock filter was a more than adequate choice or a Bean Counter choice.

After all the Laws of Physics Apply: A larger filter with more filter area with a good bypass and back drain valve, can't hurt as long as it does not get ripped off by an impacting object.

Steve

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 12:29 am 
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For those who think that FRAM filters are ok, think again.
For Chrysler to come out and basically ban FRAM from the Cummings line, there has to be a pretty good reason for it.
Realize that this was awhile back, but still carries some weight. I used to work for Honeywell and I know how their quality control goes. Quanity over quality every time. If a step gets missed, don't worry, we'll catch it on the next batch of 10,000.
Do a Google search for TSB 09-004-01 and read.
Wix for me...


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 12:24 pm 
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Cummings or Cummins? Somebody left the 'g' off on my ISX! :shock:


The Wix/Napa Gold line is probably the best over the counter filter for the money. If you want the best, you have to go with a commercial grade filter like a Donnelson or similar.

Look.... if you are anal about which filter is best, then get a few different brands and then do UOA's on them. I have gotten excellent soot levels using Amsoil EA034 on my CRD. I have gotten excellent results using Wix/Napa Gold line on my ag tractor and other smaller engines. I use Donnelson on my semi. There is no perfect filter, but a little research on filters is worth it.

Heck... it can get even worse than this! For instance, CAT engines just plain do not do well using anything but a CAT fuel filter. Cummins and DD are not so finicky. Oil filters are not this bad, but some filters work well with some engines and not so well with others. There are so many variables that go into the mix that to learn everything, you would then be getting your BS degree in engineering.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 1:09 pm 
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I won't defend Fram but UPS uses them. 60,000 miles between oil changes... they can't be that bad. Cat likes to scare everyone into thinking that their engines will fail if you don't use their filters. They like to blame a lot of failures on non Cat filters. Cat in gereral is a real pita when it comes to warranty claims. Cat filters are built very nice but you pay for it. I screw on a set of Fleetguard filters at least once a night, on a Cat engine.Never had a filter failure yet. Knock on wood.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 4:30 pm 
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I'm not trying to be that picky about how good a filter is or isn’t. My point was that if a major car manufacturer is going to point a finger at a specific oil filter manufacturer (FRAM) and then say you have no warrantee if you use them, then there had to have been “Something” that happened (major or more than once) or other evidence to get black-balled. Remember that they (any aftermarket manufacturer) has to meet the car manufacture’s minimum requirements so they don’t get sued, or you don’t end up with a non-warrantee vehicle (more law suits).

This TSB just happens to be some proof that FRAM has issues. There are hundreds of reports from other 4X4, truck, race car, etc. web sites that site FRAM as junk as well.
Maybe they are good now, but I’m not going to take that chance with their track record and my CRD. I choose to go elsewhere.

I also believe that size matters, and the little filter that came stock on the CRD only has “X” amount of filter area. The larger sizes have more filter area. Can’t hurt with al that soot floating around in there. Especially when you go longer between oil changes.
I for one change just the filter at the half-way point between oil changes. Cheap insurance I figure…..


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 7:45 pm 
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I'm still dubious. I think the question is whether there is any evidence that increased filter size/oil capacity results in cleaner oil in our CRD's, or other small diesels? All the oil analysis I've seen posted here show that at 6k with good oil and decent filters our engines are fine, and the oil could probably go 12k with no ill-effects.

With fuel prices where they are, I'm being more conservative with my $$ spent on this vehicle. Rotella 5w40 and Wix filters are looking pretty economical right now....

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Mopar engine, transmission, transfer case skids
245/70/16 Michelin Latitude X-Ice (winter)
235/75/16 Firestone Destination ATs (summer)
Thule roof rack, cargo box
V6 airbox mod
Flowmaster 50 2.5 inch muffler
Edge EZ module (set for fuel economy)
SEGR
TDIWagonGuy CCV filter
B99 (summer), B20 (winter)


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