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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 12:54 pm 
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nursecosmo wrote:
Many people still think that it will scour away the fuel pump cylinder walls but think about it, What could have higher lubricity than oil?
Answer: Biodiesel.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 10, 2008 1:06 pm 
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We used to always burn the old engine oil in power boat on a long trip. Filter it to 5 microns and dump it into the fuel tanks. Much better then trying to store old oil when each change takes 12 to 16 qts per engine and better then dumping it overboard.

Granted these were Perkins or Detroits and they would pretty much burn anything with BTU content and that would pour.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 1:20 pm 
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Ok, just so I'm clear and not misreading...

You are running used motor oil, synthetic and non-synthetic, as a fuel, in your Jeep?

....seriously?

I would really love to see photos of the setup.

On a "if this is real" serious note...

So the oil that comes out of the motor.... in theory, with a used pair of pants (Hillary Clinton has a great close out on pantsuits) + USed Motor Oil = free ride home?

That sounds like Corn + Magic = gasoline --stephen colbert.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 16, 2008 3:10 pm 
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I ran some used motor oil through my Mercedes for a bit, until I got completely disgusted with it. It smells nasty and it's pitch black. I'd rather just recycle it and let someone else deal with it.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 12:24 am 
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UFO wrote:
I ran some used motor oil through my Mercedes for a bit, until I got completely disgusted with it. It smells nasty and it's pitch black. I'd rather just recycle it and let someone else deal with it.


For the 80 bucks which I save with each fillup, I can live with the smell.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 10:53 am 
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nursecosmo wrote:
UFO wrote:
I ran some used motor oil through my Mercedes for a bit, until I got completely disgusted with it. It smells nasty and it's pitch black. I'd rather just recycle it and let someone else deal with it.


For the 80 bucks which I save with each fillup, I can live with the smell.
My fuel is cheap enough, and I don't care if I get it on my hands. If I had only petroleum diesel for my CRD, I might feel differently, but everytime I change my oil and get a stain on my hand or drive that won't clean up, I'm glad I'm not doing anything else with it.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 17, 2008 4:22 pm 
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I'm STRONGLY considering doing the WMO thing for my drive back home in August, these diesel prices are killing me. I don't give a rip what color the fuel is, as long as it pours and burns. Ditto for the smell, but I'll probably mix it more to 50% with WVO if I can, and then the 25% of dino on top. I have 2 30 gallon drums with me here, and I'm thinking that 10 gallons of WMO plus 10 gallons of WVO... Would make a not-so-smelly mix of FREE fuel to add the dino to. At OVER $5 per gallon for diesel (Its 5.15 or more in NY state) that adds up QUICK to fill up.


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PostPosted: Wed Jun 18, 2008 1:11 pm 
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UFO wrote:
nursecosmo wrote:
UFO wrote:
I ran some used motor oil through my Mercedes for a bit, until I got completely disgusted with it. It smells nasty and it's pitch black. I'd rather just recycle it and let someone else deal with it.


For the 80 bucks which I save with each fillup, I can live with the smell.
My fuel is cheap enough, and I don't care if I get it on my hands. If I had only petroleum diesel for my CRD, I might feel differently, but everytime I change my oil and get a stain on my hand or drive that won't clean up, I'm glad I'm not doing anything else with it.


See now for my TDI I agree with you. However the Jeep costs as stated over $90 to fill up at $5/gallon for B100. If I can get by on a cheaper fuel with it, which it seems oxymoronic to mix B100 with WMO... but I'd do it.... if it means we can run it cheaper.

I can get WMO for free from a buddy's shop, all day long... it takes him about 3 months to fill a 55 gallon barrel, that's two tanks for jeepy plus.....

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 6:56 am 
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Well I finally have my centrifuge working the way I want, no more filters. I have converted a 50 year old cream separator to a single output stream, solid separating, self cleaning disk centrifuge. I have also reduced the concentration of dark matter to 60% to eliminate smoke, not so much because I really think that the small amount of smoke is harming the engine but I dont want to take a chance on cokeing my injectors untill I can pull one for inspection. I still run 90-100% oil in my CTD without issue. A 60% savings on fuel is still a big deal. I am going to playing around with different mixes of gasoline and other solvents in order to find a better concentration ratio.

Amendment to an earlier statement I made about synthetic oil: synthetic oil does burn as a fuel but it makes slightly more grey smoke and has a funny smell more like a strong smelling Biodiesel.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 11:25 am 
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I'd love to see some pics of the centrifuge. That is one of the big problems I had with biodiesel, changing the filters constantly. I'm almost in a position to start making bio again, but I'm not going to do it unless I can filter the stuff effectively and without a huge cost for replacement filters.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 6:20 pm 
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geordi wrote:
I'd love to see some pics of the centrifuge. That is one of the big problems I had with biodiesel, changing the filters constantly. I'm almost in a position to start making bio again, but I'm not going to do it unless I can filter the stuff effectively and without a huge cost for replacement filters.


Thats funny, I almost never had to change filters when I made BD. Are you filtering before or after?

I will try to get some pics this week maybe, but I don't know how to load them in a post. Do you?

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 7:07 pm 
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For my filtration setup, I was filtering the WVO itself, at ambient temps. Screen filtration followed by gravity filtration (The screen was a HUGE point of clogging) and then filtering the finished B100 through a Purolator oil filter. I think a large part of the problem was the pump I was using had an "automatic bypass" function that would kick in when it sensed too much backpressure. This would then almost completely halt the flow of biodiesel. Very annoying, but I didn't realize at the time what was happening.

When I rebuild my system, I am going to use several gear-only pumps, so that bypass issue doesn't happen again. I will also pick pumps that are capable of pushing 50psi or so.

As for loading the pictures, I can load them on my website and link them here, if that works for you. I don't think this forum has an attachment system active.


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 10:58 pm 
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When you make BD there is no need to filter the wvo except for the cockroaches and cigarettes. 99.9% of the solids come out with the glycerin. plus the finished BD is MUCH easier to pass through a filter than even heated oil.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 04, 2008 11:04 pm 
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Yes, I know this NOW... But at the same time, I am running a process that does not include a wash cycle. So anything that is heavier than the BD, I want out. I believe that I was having moderate amounts of unreacted oil in the final mix. Not enough to affect the specific gravity, which I consistently measured out at .86, but enough to put a slime layer in a white paint strainer that I tried as a pre-filter to see exactly what was coking my BD filter.

The car didn't seem to mind tho, and 60k miles after the B100 use stopped, it still measured at the top end of a NEW engine for compression.

So I'd say that my filter system was great.


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