steel front diff

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 01, 2010 12:48 am

stumpjumper_09 wrote:

It is supposted to be to factory size specs except for steel. Why would you need to have a different drive shaft?

The D30A has a much longer pinion then a D30,by about 1" so the OEM front driveshaft will be about 1" to short.

stumpjumper_09 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 01, 2010 1:00 am

Gonna have to get more info from marlin on this. From the pics it looks like he is using a typical 1310 yoke, My shaft would work but anyone with a stock one would definately have issues

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 01, 2010 3:28 am

stumpjumper_09 wrote:

Gonna have to get more info from marlin on this. From the pics it looks like he is using a typical 1310 yoke, My shaft would work but anyone with a stock one would definately have issues

Does your have a slip joint in it? If not yours would not work either.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Thu Apr 01, 2010 9:29 am

stumpjumper_09 wrote:

Gonna have to get more info from marlin on this. From the pics it looks like he is using a typical 1310 yoke, My shaft would work but anyone with a stock one would definately have issues

you said "shaft"....... lol

dgeist · **Posted:** Thu Apr 01, 2010 1:10 pm

Pardon the ignorance of terminology, but does this mean a dimensionally-longer-at-the-joints CV is required or that just the splined part needs to extend farther?

Dan

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 01, 2010 1:28 pm

dgeist wrote:

Pardon the ignorance of terminology, but does this mean a dimensionally-longer-at-the-joints CV is required or that just the splined part needs to extend farther?

Dan

The OEM front driveshaft is a fixed length driveshaft,it can not extend or retract more then a 1/2" at most since the front diff is in a "fixed" position.Adding the mentioned steel diff will require a longer driveshaft.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Thu Apr 01, 2010 2:25 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

dgeist wrote:

Pardon the ignorance of terminology, but does this mean a dimensionally-longer-at-the-joints CV is required or that just the splined part needs to extend farther?

Dan

The OEM front driveshaft is a fixed length driveshaft,it can not extend or retract more then a 1/2" at most since the front diff is in a "fixed" position.Adding the mentioned steel diff will require a longer driveshaft.

I am sure this company has thought of that, there no way this company would ship a product that wasn't exhaustively reasearched. What font is the most sarcastic?

stumpjumper_09 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 01, 2010 8:31 pm

tjkj2002 wrote:

stumpjumper_09 wrote:

Gonna have to get more info from marlin on this. From the pics it looks like he is using a typical 1310 yoke, My shaft would work but anyone with a stock one would definately have issues

Does your have a slip joint in it? If not yours would not work either.

yeah I do

2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Fri Apr 02, 2010 12:16 am

JL Rockies wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

dgeist wrote:

Pardon the ignorance of terminology, but does this mean a dimensionally-longer-at-the-joints CV is required or that just the splined part needs to extend farther?

Dan

The OEM front driveshaft is a fixed length driveshaft,it can not extend or retract more then a 1/2" at most since the front diff is in a "fixed" position.Adding the mentioned steel diff will require a longer driveshaft.

I am sure this company has thought of that, there no way this company would ship a product that wasn't exhaustively reasearched. What font is the most sarcastic?

And you are exactly right!!! We talked at length today about some very detailed technical stuff, and all is good with the world and he's got some extremely talented people working on this with him trying to get it all right before final release. Everything he's doing is gonna be a direct swap. Only thing your gonna need to get in addition to this is new carrier bearings (if reusing the stock open diff) and ring&pinion. I'm not at liberty to discuss exact specifics as yet, but Marlin is really excited about this project, and has nearly 80 pre-ordered as of now. Thats not counting the many others who have shown serious interest and who are just sitting on the fence waiting to see how things go with the 1st few beta units and such before committing to buy. Things are going easier he said than actually expected, and given his location and state of the manufacturing/steel/machine industries in his area (very long and storied tradition there around Pennsylvania), the people he's working on this with him are both grateful and very helpful to take the work he's giving them. And maybe, just maybe the initial price he's posted might just go down.........Time will tell.

I have pics of the mockup axle and can share if you send a PM but out of respect to Marlin's wishes, I cannot post these on an open forum just yet.

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Fri Apr 02, 2010 7:23 pm

The pictures are sexy

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Fri Apr 02, 2010 11:47 pm

Diggerfreek wrote:

The pictures are sexy

This thread is worthless without pics!

2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Sat Apr 03, 2010 1:27 pm

dieselenthusiast wrote:

Diggerfreek wrote:

The pictures are sexy

This thread is worthless without pics!

Only ones I can share right now. They will be powdercoated in his trademark Red color upon final production.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Sat Apr 03, 2010 3:31 pm

This thread is about to get interesting............

evil libby · **Joined:** Thu Nov 13, 2008 11:41 am **Posts:** 296

so we still need to use the old gear set and cv but buy a new install kit and gear if we wold like to rear gear it and then also to the rear that sounds like a lot more then a SFA if you were to do both ends I think the links and coil overs are the big price tag I think I am going to do the SFA I thinking I can do most of the work my self and be around 1500-2000 bucks and a litle time it is not rocket science

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sat Apr 03, 2010 11:55 pm

evil libby wrote:

so we still need to use the old gear set and cv but buy a new install kit and gear if we wold like to rear gear it and then also to the rear that sounds like a lot more then a SFA if you were to do both ends I think the links and coil overs are the big price tag I think I am going to do the SFA I thinking I can do most of the work my self and be around 1500-2000 bucks and a litle time it is not rocket science

Can't use the D30A gears in a D30 housing,you'd have to buy new gears to stay the same gear ratio as you already have installed.

Your going to find $1500-$2000 is not possible for a SFA swap,even if you do all the labor yourself.Your at/over $2000 for the coilovers and links alone(even custom made ones).Then you still got the steering,front axle,rear suspension,exhaust,t-case work(SYE kit)and F/R rear driveshafts at minimum after that.Plus 3.73's,or even 4.10's,are going to cut it for 33"+ tires.

Sport · **Posted:** Mon Apr 05, 2010 8:43 am

I wonder if they are new or used housings? BTW, a few new pictures on his site bolted up to the cradle.

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Mon Apr 05, 2010 11:36 am

Shhhh...... it's secret.... :roll:

evil libby · **Joined:** Thu Nov 13, 2008 11:41 am **Posts:** 296

very true but there is other ways to do this I see just as much going to be spent on both set up I will not say that but now I am saying switch is better that is the question and were am I getting the most for the mony that is what I am asking my self :2cents:

kvenner · **Posted:** Mon Apr 05, 2010 3:35 pm

evil libby wrote:

very true but there is other ways to do this I see just as much going to be spent on both set up I will not say that but now I am saying switch is better that is the question and were am I getting the most for the mony that is what I am asking my self :2cents:

Huh?

JL Rockies · **Posted:** Mon Apr 05, 2010 4:30 pm

I need to bust out the Rosetta Stone.

steel front diff

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