engine stalls after starting...

quebeccrd · **Posted:** Mon Apr 26, 2010 10:19 am

Hello,

i need some help answering my little problem...

the engine of my CRD stalled yesterday just after I started it. It's the second time it does that.

Both times it happenned, I engaged the transmission in Drive prety fast after starting the vehicle (like 1 or 2 seconds) and the engine stalls... I put it back into Park position and restart it and everything went normal after.

Few precisons, the engine was at normal temperature, i got the ORM and i don't know what else to say...

Anybody have an idea of what's going on?

Thank you!

RJM · **Posted:** Mon Apr 26, 2010 10:54 am

Security key, lost programming or you are using an unprogrammed key.

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Mon Apr 26, 2010 8:21 pm

Have you serviced your transmission lately? Maybe the anti-drainback valve on your spin on filter is messed up. Has caused others similar problems before.

andrewvanh80 · **Posted:** Mon Apr 26, 2010 10:04 pm

Could be nothing to do with the tranny. How about the possibility of air in the fuel lines? Have you had the fuel filter head replaced or checked for leaks? The heater leaks air into the lines and causes stalls and loss of power.

CATCRD · **Posted:** Tue Apr 27, 2010 5:56 pm

I agree. If you're using the same keys you always use, it sounds like air in the fuel lines. Check the fuel filter head and its plugs for wetness.

quebeccrd · **Posted:** Tue Apr 27, 2010 9:36 pm

Thanks, i just changed the fuel filter yesterday... I will see if it happens again

Mandela · **Joined:** Thu Apr 01, 2010 7:27 am **Posts:** 8

quebeccrd wrote:

Thanks, i just changed the fuel filter yesterday... I will see if it happens again

Take the plunge and fit an aux fuel pump as others have done and your air in fuel problem should dissapear.

Make sure the plunger is firm otherwise bleed the air from the bleed valve.

This happened to me recently and i have a pump fitted.

geordi · **Posted:** Thu Apr 29, 2010 12:50 pm

That is because it isn't being caused by air in the fuel. If you already have an aux lift pump (I do too) and it happens... Air in the fuel isn't a problem anymore.

This has happened to me several times recently, it is because of the drainback valve in the transmission filter. I have not serviced mine recently, and I believe it is due for a change. The reason it happens is that the transmission is still filling the torque converter after you start the motor, and there isn't sufficient pressure to unlock the connection properly. When you put it into drive, the transmission wants to "slip" the clutches initially... But doesn't have the fluid to do it. So the engine is basically pulled into a stall by the low RPM transmission suddenly "hooking" the engine. At least it doesn't hurt anything b/c the speed is so low already.

danoid · **Posted:** Fri Apr 30, 2010 10:15 pm

When that situation happens, you need to be standing on the brake to stop the car. Does it feel like a manual that you forgot to push that middle pedal in while coming to a stop? Then you have a t/c drainback, filter, or pump problem.

If the engine never has the oomph to move the car, then you likely have an air in fuel problem.

geordi · **Posted:** Sat May 01, 2010 12:18 am

I've had it happen twice in recent memory, once each of the way you describe. Both times, the engine stalled.

The first time, the car lurched forward briefly and the engine died, this was after it not wanting to back out of the parking place.
Second time, again it didn't want to back out of the space... But after waiting about 20 seconds (both times the same wait) in gear, it did back out... And when I put it into drive, it just died.

I don't have air in my fuel. I have a positive-pressure lift pump at the tank, and the plunger is rock-solid all the time b/c of the supplied 6 psi of fuel.

danoid · **Posted:** Sat May 01, 2010 6:06 pm

Ah, That sounds like mine. I'd back out of the driveway, put it in Drive to go to the mailbox and it would lurch and then I'd stall it with the brake. Mine was fixed with a new pump. The pump isn't making enough pressure at idle to unlock the torque converter in Drive (evidently it takes less pressure at the pump to keep it unlocked in Reverse). My pump was damaged by the stealership improperly installing the transmission on my F37 recall.

geordi · **Posted:** Sat May 01, 2010 7:10 pm

How hard is it to replace that pump? Does the tranny need to be removed or can it be done from under the CRD?

I'm wondering if the gorilla that installed my engine did something to mine while the transmission was out - It has been doing this more lately, but since the engine was replaced was when it really started. It only did it rarely when really cold out before last February (when the engine died)

Where is the spin-on filter located, and is that part of the normal trans filter service too?

danoid · **Posted:** Sat May 01, 2010 8:53 pm

The trans fluid filter can be accessed with the trans oil pan removed. The pump - that a different story. The trans needs to come out to get the torque converter out to see the pump.

It's entirely possible that this is a by-product of an engine change. My transmission bellhousing to engine block bolts weren't tightened properly, allowing the transmission to shift under load. When the transmission shifts you get things that are supposed to be aligned suddenly being slightly out of alignment, like the torque converter (bolted to the driveplate bolted to the engine) and the pump (bolted to the transmission). This side loads the pump rotor and bushing causing wear on very tightly controlled surfaces. This wear degrades the pump efficiency (more leak path) decreasing available pressure at idle, causing the torque converter to be in an indeterminate state (neither locked or unlocked).

At least that's my theory. I do know that a new pump, torque converter, and valve body fixed the problem. The valve body was fully analyzed and nothing was wrong with it, the pump and t/c were scrapped before they could be analyzed, so naturally I blame them.

e_poirier2004 · **Posted:** Sun May 02, 2010 3:39 am

Hi, it's not the drain back of the tranny the problem. The truck simply wouldn't move after being engaged in gear. It could be many things. Start with easy stuff. First, do you have the oem fuel filter assembly? If yes, check the heater for any sings of burn (you have to disconnect the plug) 2- Check your flow control valve, my truck did all kind of weird stuff like that and couldn't figure out what was going on. I even had the F37 done with no success. Finally, I got a code popping. When I removed the fcv, 2 teeth were broken in the fcv gearbox causing it to be stuck open. One easy way to know if it's the fcv, the truck will shut really rough when you turn off the key. Changed mine, everything went back to normal. 3- The torque converter/tranny hydraulic pump is freaking out, remaining into lockup when you stop. Make sure you had the F37 done. Is it stalling when you stop? or when you start? or when you drive? Good luck!

engine stalls after starting...

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