I read a Tech post on another website Youtube..search seafoam that recommended using seamfoam in the Vac line off the break booster to clean carbon crud from the inside of the engine. I was have EGR problems and ran 16 oz of Seafoam and it seemed to do the trick, anyone else heard of this or tried it?? Also have run it in my oil and fuel and it works wonders...love the stuff..to bad it expensive 9 bucks a bottle..but worth it......

DO NOT DO WHAT THEY DO ON youtube to your CRD!!!!!!!!!

NEVER introduce a combustable liquid in to the intake of a diesel engine. It will cause a runaway engine and could very well lead to severe damage. the only fuel introduced in to the engine should be by the injectors.

you can put seafaom in the fuel tank or in the fuel filter when changing it. you can add some to the motor oil before a change to clean out the engine some. I have added it to fuel and in the oil with no problems.

putting seafoam in a vacuum line is for gassers NOT our diesel engines

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited Deep Beryl Green Metallic Clear coat, Fumoto valve, MH ProVent (removed), GDE Eco tune,
OME 790/948 springs, OME struts, OME N132L shocks, Jeepin by Al A-arms, Hercules Terra Trac AT2 245/75R16
Weeks Stage 1 EGR delete, 5 volt steel glow plugs

Oh man.. opps..thanks for the info..didn't seem to hurt it any but I'm glad I got your info. I have run it in the oil and fuel..but will not add any more to the vacuum system...any ideas on how to clean the carbon out. My libby was a security vehicle and it sat for days running on idle with AC and heat on at a guard shack in the mountains of Colo so Im assuming it has a ton of carbon build up in her..

I should have read this first...direct from the Seafoam website..http://www.seafoamsales.com/diesel-engi ... .html#nogo

not sure how to do more than you have. running seafoam in the fuel can't hurt it. I'm sure others will know more than me.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited Deep Beryl Green Metallic Clear coat, Fumoto valve, MH ProVent (removed), GDE Eco tune,
OME 790/948 springs, OME struts, OME N132L shocks, Jeepin by Al A-arms, Hercules Terra Trac AT2 245/75R16
Weeks Stage 1 EGR delete, 5 volt steel glow plugs

Carbon buildup is not a given. I idle my CRD all the time with either the A/C (usually) or the heat running, and using the rig as a power generator with a BIG inverter. The beauty of a diesel is that it naturally will reduce the amount of fuel entering the cylinders to match the demand. When idling, demand is VERY low, and the air / fuel ratio can reach levels of 200:1 easily.

I wouldn't worry about it much, a good "Italian Tuneup" is probably all it needs, if anything. Take it out and flog it for a bit, a couple of WOT runs on the highway entrance ramps is really all you need to do. These tractors love to work hard, but idling them doesn't bother them either. The turbo does NOT need to be doing anything in order to remain sealed (just heading off an old wives tale early) and even at idle, the turbo IS SPINNING quite fast. The vanes are closed, the exhaust is working the turbo and it is getting the full oil flow as normal.

BTW: Since we have both a pressurized intake (when there is boost) and a separate vacuum pump driven by the motor... Your use of seafoam into the vacuum lines probably never got near the actual intake and cylinders. I'm not entirely sure where the vacuum motor discharges, but you just washed out the inside of that motor with the seafoam. I wouldn't suggest doing that again, but you probably didn't hurt it this time.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Having seen the carbon build up first hand on VW TDI's with EGR (ALH and newer engines) the best cure is to keep if from happening

Some hear have claimed it was a VW thing and we didn't have to worry. Others found out they were wrong.
geordi is partly right. How their driven is part of the problem. On my last TDI I did a lot of crusing on the interstate in my job taking it easy at the 65 mph limit. That was when the most EGR was being used. Soot from the EGR and Oil vapors are what cause the build up.
It's better to stop it from happening by eliminating one or both of the causes. (pro-vent and GDE tune)

Some say to get the GDE tune but let the oil vapor remain and it will clean the build up. Sounds possible but who knows

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

You might want to change your oil because all that seafoam wound up in the crankcase.

The vacuum pump that allows your brake booster to work is driven by one of the balance
shafts which are way down in the crankcase.

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U.S. Army Retired

What is WOT and Italian tune up??

Ok I will change it even though Sea Foam is 100% petroleum?? and they recommend placing it in the crankcase??

WOT: Wide-open-throttle. also known as planting your foot on the go-pedal and doing a full-throttle acceleration run. This is what an Italian Tuneup is.

You want to get that seafoam out of your oil because even though it might be a petroleum product, there are LOTS of petroleum products that you DON'T want in your oil. Things like gasoline. They thin out the oil, and that can very quickly cause MAJOR damage to your turbo from lack of oil lubrication.

If your turbo fails, the oil line that leads to the turbo WILL start leaking into the exhaust, and you will lose a LOT of oil very quickly. The problem is that the turbo's oil line is ALSO the one that directly connects to the #1 cylinder. If the oil loses pressure at the turbo (because of a leak or blown seal) then the #1 cylinder WILL STARVE FOR OIL and that piston will come apart within just a few minutes of operation. It may not even make any bad noises until it is too late.

I had this happen to me. Not because of Seafoam, but because something caused my turbo to fail. When it did - I lost the engine.

Get your oil changed NOW. Today. Even if you have to go to a quick-change place (BE SURE THEY USE THE RIGHT OIL!) Get that oil-thinning stuff out of there.

The proper oil for our engines is 5w-40 FULLY SYNTHETIC from either Mobil-1 Diesel (Silver bottle at the parts store) or Mobil-1 DELVAC 1 (Silver bottle at the truck stop) or Shell Rotella-T (White bottle, check that it is full synth).

The oil will have a circle on the back, this is the "API Service Grade" and it needs to be CJ-4 or higher. CF is NOT higher, but would be OK for a short time if you couldn't get anything else... As long as the oil was synthetic.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

I run Rotilla t6 full synthetic..I will change it tomorrow..thanks for the info..jeff

Changed the oil today it was a quart over full and thinned out..thanks so much for the info..it saved me thousands..wow what a huge mistake..but on the bright side its clean inside..

Now you've got the cleanest vacuum pump in town!

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

I can testify that letting the PCV continue to vent a small amount of oil vapor after disabling the EGR, will indeed clean out all of the crud from the intake. I'm at 108K miles now and the intake is clean as a whistle. It took a few thousand miles to get the built up crud dissolved, but I haven't had to clean the MAP for more than 50K.

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.

Rotella T6 is usually a blue bottle or gallon jug. I get the gallons at wally world for $19.00 to $19.50 they seem to keep raising and lowering the price.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited Deep Beryl Green Metallic Clear coat, Fumoto valve, MH ProVent (removed), GDE Eco tune,
OME 790/948 springs, OME struts, OME N132L shocks, Jeepin by Al A-arms, Hercules Terra Trac AT2 245/75R16
Weeks Stage 1 EGR delete, 5 volt steel glow plugs

Running seafoam in a diesel engine CAN hurt it. Seafoam is alcohol based, therefore it can carry water past the water separator into the fuel system. The water will remain compressed and stable while pressurized in the rails. But once it gets to the injector tip and is free from the rail pressure it instantly vaporizes into steam. It does this explosively. Causing erosion at the nozzle outlets and the possibility of cracking tips.

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Mine - 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 CTD with a lot of stuff
Mine - 1987 Suzuki Samurai SPOA lift 1.6VW Turbo Diesel Dual transfer cases 33" super swampers 9K winch
Hers - 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD 2.5" glasspack, EVIC display, Transgo Shift Kit, PML pan, ASP torque converter, BD X-monitor.

Yes, we like diesels.

An alternate explanation(and scientifically accurate one) is that this does not happen as described. An alcohol/water solution is chemically stable whether it is at atmospheric pressure in the fuel tank or under pressure in the fuel rail. At no time during the injection event is it under less than atmospheric pressure(which would drop the phase curve). Since an Isopropyl/water solution is a positive Azeotrope having a phase-envelope curve which remains positive at the pressures and temperatures which might be expected in a hot combustion chamber during the combustion event, the water will never boil explosively before the alcohol vaporizes. As the alcohol vaporizes, it carries heat away from the water content left in solution which effectively allows the water to disperse throughout the combustion chamber before boiling.

Perhaps kdlewis1975 can elaborate more than I since my grasp of chemistry has slipped somewhat since taking organic chemistry and physics.

The point of this little lesson is that water in a isopropyl solution can never vaporize (explosively or otherwise) before it's azeotrope.

This is of course assuming that steam would be damaging to injector tips. The truth is quite far from this old wives tale. Direct water injection has a long history of use in diesel engines and is actually becoming the standard means of NOx reduction on marine vessels.

What can cause severe injector tip erosion is free water in the fuel, an event which is prevented by the use of water scavenging alcohol based additives such as Seafoam, Powerservice, Standyne, etc.

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Manure green 2005 CRD sport4x4, GDE Hot tune, Cat Gut, OE skids, Draw tight hitch, Duramax lift pump, 160K on multiple varieties of fuel, XM radio, Escort live with Redline, fog light mod, GPS, Icom IC7000 all band radio call sign KC9QPF, Grabber AT2s on Soft 8s, FIA grill blanket.

My understanding was that seafaom was a petroliem product not an alcohol product like say Heet gas line antifreeze is.

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2006 Liberty CRD Limited Deep Beryl Green Metallic Clear coat, Fumoto valve, MH ProVent (removed), GDE Eco tune,
OME 790/948 springs, OME struts, OME N132L shocks, Jeepin by Al A-arms, Hercules Terra Trac AT2 245/75R16
Weeks Stage 1 EGR delete, 5 volt steel glow plugs

Yes it contains isopropyl alcohol.

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Mine - 1999 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 CTD with a lot of stuff
Mine - 1987 Suzuki Samurai SPOA lift 1.6VW Turbo Diesel Dual transfer cases 33" super swampers 9K winch
Hers - 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD 2.5" glasspack, EVIC display, Transgo Shift Kit, PML pan, ASP torque converter, BD X-monitor.

Yes, we like diesels.