Hi to all I have been a member of the this board for some time but have not posted in a long time. I have an 06 CRD with 75000 miles and have had the normal problem with windows and check engine light. Last Saturday it started making a sound like the air filter housing was disconnected but from the driver side. Sunday it started surging when accelerating. I check for any sign of leaks and lose items but found nothing. It has been to cold here to investigate further. I suspect a problem with the turbo or wast gate. Any thoughts on what the problem may be or if anyone has had the same problem, what did you do to fix it? Thanks in advance for any advice. Rob

My '06 has 62,000 and I just heard the same sound coming from my driver's side. Eventually, the "Check Engine" light came on as well. I had recently replaced both turbo hoses, so I knew it was something else. If you have not replaced your hoses, check them. They are referred to as "CAC" hoses, by Chrysler.

In my case, I removed and cleaned the MAP sensor and all returned to normal, including the extinguishing of the "Check Engine" light. It is worth checking and very easy to do (a bit messy, though). The only tool you need is a 4mm allen wrench. You'll also need some non-chlorinated brake cleaner. Do not touch the tip, but spray the heck out of it to remove the junk build-up. Then a can of compressed air is a handy way to quickly dry it off.

Apparently this thing affects the operation of the EGR and other pollution-related devices. If it is plugged, all bets are off. If it is clean, the motor becomes a very happy fellow once again.

Just be careful when removing the screw, so that you don't drop anything into the motor.

I don't have the link, but there is a thread called "Sam's noob" that can take you there. Either that, or just do a search.

Hope this helps.
Ron

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'06 Limited, Totally stock, but for Eco-tune.

Thanks. I will check the hoses. I clean the map sensor when I do the oil change but I don`t remember cleaning it last time. It is time for an oil change and I have a new fuel filter for it too. Rob

Have any of you read Sam's very good Noob guide

It's the 4th sticky from the top

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

There is a third hose that you need to check, the one from the air box to the turbo. They tend to rot from the ccv right at where it attaches to the turbo, you will need to take it off to check it.

Thanks for the advice. I have read the noob post and I don`t care to make any of the mods on my jeep. Up date on the problem. The turbo is not boosting at all, I am leaning toward a waste-gate. This weekend I will take her apart and investigate.

uuummmhhh - you don't have a waste gate... at least not on the CRD
they have variable vanes


your description - is exactly what a split turbo hose sounds like - and some of the splits are really small until pressurized.

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2005 CRD
stuff
Skeptic quod gratis asseritur, gratis negatur

Do you have a check engine light on? If so, what are the stored codes?

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Providers of wholly developed aftermarket solutions for the KJ CRD.
(248) 977 - 9531

Mine was similar, and it was the intercooler to intake turbo hose, I couldn't see the tear until I removed the hose.

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O6 Limited CRD 4X4, Frankenlifted II, Magnaflow, EHM, ORM, 245/16 BFG, AllJ's Rear Rack, Lightforce Aux Lights, Tjm front bumper, Tmax winch, Scorpion diesel tuner and Baja Tested.

I had a similar issue with my CRD KJ when I had it, it ended up being the intercooler that had a leak. Hopefully you will find something else that is simple, new intercoolers are about $700 Check and doubble check your CAC hoses and make sure they are tight also. You should be able to pressure check the whole system if you need to. Heres some info from when I had my issue. Also a way to pressure check...I made a little plug with PVC pipe and installed a tire valve stem. Put the PVC plug in one end of the pipe (turbo end) and clamp off, then put the other end with the valve stem on the other side of the intercooler in the other end of the hose and pressurize. Up to about 20psi should be safe for the intercooler and hoses since that pressure is routinely hit by your turbo. If it doesn't go up at all you have a leak and need to listen for it. You can also use an electric blower to find a leak if it is big enough hole to hear past the blower noise. It helps to have 2 people...one just listening and walking around. You could do this to your whole system to check it all for leaks. See the following link for my issue and how it was t/s and resolved:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=50589

Good luck

- Mark

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Previous-05 CRD KJ;Current-2010 Taurus SHO Twin Turbo (450HP), 2014 Subaru Forester Turbo (stock)

X2. look around the under side of the intercooler input and output hoses, paying attention to the places it bends and where oil can pool. That's where things will split. Worst case, wait for the engine to cool down and just loosen/remove both sides and inspect (all you need is your hands and a flat blade screwdriver or nut driver). You'll probably fine a lengthwise split somewhere there.

Dan

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2005 Silver CRD Limited
245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
Fumoto drain | ProVent CCV Filter
Stanadyne FM100 filter | Cummins fuel pump
GDE Eco | SEGR | BoulderBars | FrankenLift | Frankenskids

Thanks to all for the advice. I found the problem it was the outlet hose for the intercooler. I cut it and put a piece of muffler pipe in side the hose. I am having a hard time swallowing the $180 price tag from the dealer.

From www.moparonlineparts.com (only ground shipping)

air box to turbo 53013104AE $35.54
turbo to intercooler 55038729AA $124.20
intercooler to engine 55037730AD $82.97

www.moparpartsamerica.com (offers 2-Day and Next Day Air)

air box to turbo 53013104AE $38.62
turbo to intercooler 55038729AA $135.00
intercooler to engine 55037730AD $90.19

Click23, thanks I just ordered the hose. Marry Christmas to everyone.

You should consider ordering the samco hoses for the next time your hoses fail.

That or do some of the mods so those stock hoses are less likely to fail.

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http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

Another possible cause of a no boost/no leak can be the map sensor itself. I cleaned mine once and when I reconnected the pig-tail it didn't snap into place. Poor performance and lots of smoke. Took me awhile to figure out what was going on. While I was moving my family 500 miles away; standing on the side of the interstate scratching my head. It ran fine for about 200 miles until the sensor wiggled loose. Started thinking about the last things I fondled before the failure occurred. Changed the oil... Cleaned the MAP sensor. So I grabbed the MAP pigtail and it fell right out. Reconnected. Verified the "snap". Problem solved.

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06 KJ Sport CRD, 133k mi, GDE FT Eco Tune, GDE Trans Tow Tune, Euro Convertor, EHM, Sasquatch FCV Delete, Straight Piped, Updated Filter Head, Samco's, and a dead hyundai. Bought it 04/2009 w/40k miles.