please help motor bad

kjfj · **Posted:** Wed Jul 13, 2011 5:20 pm

I was driving home towing 1200 lb on trailer and motor shuttered blew black smoke and now has a loud thump that i feel in the intercooler hoses. my machanic said thinks i blew a valve and its blowing through the intercooler. theres no power had hard time getting it on the trailer i have 95,000 miles on it. I need help finding parts or a head or motor for it. what do you guys think i should do, fix it with apparently a high cost, sell it as is. im lost i just put $2,000 into it for a pcm, intercooler hoses alternator and battery. this truck was maintained by the book did the elephant hose mod samco hoses etc. I bought it for the diesel longevity and now im out.
help
thanks
Greg

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Wed Jul 13, 2011 7:38 pm

The people who have killed engines have normally run out of oil.
Turbo oil feed is bad about that.

Do you still have oil left?

are the new Samco hoses still on?

any turbo pressure?

why does the mechanic think you blew a valve?

you had mentioned oil pressure issues in an earlier post - what was that solution?

Wobbly · **Posted:** Wed Jul 13, 2011 8:02 pm

One possibility is a broken rocker arm. Service Manual details how to access the rocker arms, but special tools are required. A leakdown test might be useful.

CRDphenox · **Posted:** Wed Jul 13, 2011 8:38 pm

Wobbly wrote:

One possibility is a broken rocker arm. Service Manual details how to access the rocker arms, but special tools are required. A leakdown test might be useful.

Or a compression test to confirm a blown valve.

camo · **Posted:** Wed Jul 13, 2011 9:46 pm

it sounds like the doing of a broken glow polug tip. if it brakes it can fall on the combustion chamber and damage a valve or even worst on its way out. good luck, keep posting how everything develops :roll:

GreenDieselEngineering · **Joined:** Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:10 pm **Posts:** 1111

Can you post the fault codes if the CEL is on? A failed glow plug will turn on the CEL. I would refrain from driving it much to prevent propagating the issue into something even worse. You could run it at idle, then unplug one injector at a time to find the contribution of each cylinder. The one with the least effect to stability is the bad cylinder. What did you have done to your PCM?

kjfj · **Posted:** Sun Jul 17, 2011 5:07 pm

I forgot to tell you there was no cel light When this happened I shut it down and checked the oil it was above minimum My machanic said it might be a valve he wants to know availability on parts before he tears into it

Wobbly · **Posted:** Sun Jul 17, 2011 6:29 pm

kjfj wrote:

I forgot to tell you there was no cel light When this happened I shut it down and checked the oil it was above minimum My machanic said it might be a valve he wants to know availability on parts before he tears into it

Does your mechanic have the special tools?

kjfj · **Posted:** Sun Jul 17, 2011 6:59 pm

I hope my machanic has the tools I really trust him and he's honest. He's been working on my stuff form fj40 to suburban to a jeep diesel .
The pcm was changed because I boosted the battery and fried the pcm.
Greg

painemann · **Joined:** Sat Dec 20, 2008 7:02 pm **Posts:** 607

ATXKJ wrote:

The people who have killed engines have normally run out of oil.
Turbo oil feed is bad about that.

Do you still have oil left?

are the new Samco hoses still on?

any turbo pressure?

why does the mechanic think you blew a valve?

you had mentioned oil pressure issues in an earlier post - what was that solution?

This worries me, who has installed an aftermarket oil pressure gauge? I think I am going to do this, I just don't trust the dummy gauges it has now... the light will come on and its too late!

cerich · **Posted:** Mon Jul 18, 2011 10:13 am

sounds like the timing belt went and the failure performed as designed...

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Jul 18, 2011 10:37 am

I don't recall seeing chat about installing an after market "real" oil pressure gauge although geordi may be thinking about doing so. In the normal universe of things one would simply pull the existing idiot sensor; install a "T" fitting to accomodate the idiot sensor and any decent after market senor/gauge combo, same as I've done in the distant past. However, forum chat strongly suggests the existing sensor location is poor such that once it senses a drop in pressure it's likely damage has already been done. Hence I think the first question that needs to be answered is where to install the sensor, some chat suggests in the feed between the turbo and #1 cylinder, but I don't know the engine's oil circulation pattern well enough to offer a suggestion. If a location can be identified then it's more a matter of how to tap into that location than what gauge to use.

That said I'd sure be interested in an answer. Anyone?

SCOTT'S-05CRD · **Posted:** Mon Jul 18, 2011 5:47 pm

This sounds more like the way my CRD was when the Turbo failed at about 150K Miles. Might want to take a closer look at this first. Lots of smoke, no power - one new Turbo (big $$$) fixed it.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Mon Jul 18, 2011 7:30 pm

you're lucky you caught it when you could just replace the Turbo
Jinstall and Geordi lost engines.

and Geordi was planning the post turbo - pressure gauge - I don't think he's gotten that far yet.

jinstall · **Posted:** Mon Jul 18, 2011 10:16 pm

yep New engine installed a the dealer $8100, I just had the 100K service and a fuel head done about 60 days prior. If I had to do it all over again I would have ordered the engine from Jeep and installed it myself. About 7 months waiting to get it back now. No I just have to find time to go down to NC and get it. July is now out and most of August is out.

please help motor bad

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