OK I am trying to diagnosis a problem with the '06 CRd right now. it is in limp mode, no boost. I believe it is the "wastegate actuator" and yes I know we do not technically have a wastegate but from what I learnt thus far that is what the round metal thing on the top of the turbo just before the CAC hose is called.

What is the model of Garrett turbo on the 2006 2.8L CRD?

anyway I would like to try to service this part as I believe it to be sticking are there any how too's regarding this? I really do not want to take off the entire turbo. how about a source for these parts?

Have you 1) removed both turbo>intercooler>engine hoses and carefully inspected (particularly on the bottom) for tears, cracks, holes (if found replace hoses - Samcos are best and Boost Controller will ship to Canada for phone in orders); 2) bypassed the boost pressure solenoid on the vacuum reservoir to see if boost comes back (if so replace solenoid); 3) checked the function of the turbo actuator rod (is not moving may have stuck turbo vanes due to soot - there are ways to free up the vanes), and 4) checked for vacuum at the vacuum canister as there is at least one report of a heat damaged vacuum supply hose.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

yup, yup and another yup. like I said I have not had a chacne to see if the actuator is moving more on that tonight.
where can I get that actuator part - the dealer does not sell it

Garrett does not sell parts for our VNT turbo's. I can tell you from experience on a Garrett VNT on a VW that it requires a very accurate adjustment to get it right. I don't think it's possible to get it closer then "in the ball park" without special knowledge and equiptment The diaphams are hard to find for VW's and there are many many thousands of them on the road here

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

The Garrett P/N is 763360-1S. You may also try 763360-5001S. Turbo model is Garrett 2056V. Repair/replacement parts are NOT available; only the entire turbo.

FWIW,

Hoosier CRD

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FWIW,
Hoosier CRD

#1 Liberty: '05 CRD Limited Stone White
(SOLD Dec. 2013)
#2 Liberty: ???
"Why guess when you can know?"- Carroll Smith

Thanks guys I also found the same result. where is the best place to buy the complete turbo, or a remanufactured one. I am in Ontario, Canada but I am will to tarvel and I have a U.S. Mailing address

Here is a post on the subject by MrMopar64:

"The actuator on the KJ VGT cannot be replaced separately from the turbo due to the calibration needed to install it and ensure that the turbo acts in the proper manner.

To install it you have to separate the exhaust housing from the center cartridge, insert a special gauge tool between the vanes, then calibrate the length of the actuator arm to a specific spring tension relative to the actuator preload. It's not a trivial task to do all this properly.

You're better off to replace the turbo as a whole."

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=59642

Wouldn't the actuator arm length of the defective unit be fairly close?

Yes, "Fairly close" is the best you could hope for at least on a TDI
But a little off one way will give turbo killing spikes when letting off the skinny pedal

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)

Garrett's position on rebuilding variable turbine turbos:
http://www.turbo.com.sg/e-news/Garrett%20VNT%20-%20Non-repair%20buletin.pdf

This UK turbo rebuilder claims that it can calibrate VNTs to factory specs:
http://www.turbotechnics.com/news/vnt_clean.htm

Of course Garrett doesn't want anyone to rebuild their turbos - Which makes more money, selling $10 in parts for $100, or selling $100 in parts for $1000?

Hmm... I think as a business, I will tell people that there are magic calibrating gnomes setting the proper settings for these things, regardless of the flexibility (wide tolerances) of a vacuum servo, so that people are scared off and buy my brand new turbos. Then I can restrict the supply and make even MORE money!

Cynical? Probably. Accurate? It would seem to be so. I have had BOTH my turbos apart, and the one that acted buggy FROM THE FACTORY, acts in EXACTLY the same way now that I have had it apart to try swapping the vacuum servo, changing that "magical" calibration. The vanes move from fully closed to fully open, I've seen the full travel stop-to-stop on this unit, on BOTH servos. Maybe they are talking about that tiny hex stop screw below the VNT, but I didn't mess with that - I didn't NEED to, to simply disassemble the housings or possibly even rebuild the center cartridge. (haven't opened the cartridge yet) But, I am game to give it a shot. I don't have $1000 to drop on a new turbo with the same failure problem as the 2 that I have had fail before... But I'm willing to drop $75 on the bearing kit and give it a test before I get GDE's uprated kit and hopefully never have to dig in there again.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

geordi - I just took my turbocharger out of my '05. Symptoms were chirping noises coming from the right side of the engine. For the heck of it, I removed the inlet hose to the compressor and felt radial play. Measured radial play of the turbo of 0.020" - seems excessive. I think I found the place to purchase the rebuild kit (gpopshop.com). On my turbo, it reads" 35242112G and 757246-1". I went to www.melett.com and found a cross reference for our jeeps. It directly cross referenced 757246-1 to the GT2056V. I then proceeded to go to www.gpopshop.com where they offer a kit for the GT15-25 series for $110.00.

Is this what you did? Where did you go for the $75 bearing kit?

Thanks.

Here is a link to Garrett Vane actuator

http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/merchant.mv ... y_Code=WGT

Give them a call they are a decent Garrett Dealer. It might be the right one.

Joe is right its tough to get the right adjustment. But play with it, I bet you can get it right.

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SOLD 11/21/13 White '06 Jeep KJ CRD<--Way to much $ spent here
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Search my username for a thread titled "Turbo rebuilding might just be possible" and the link to the place I got my kit from is in there.

With regard to this calibration - I still believe that the little hex stop screws are the main things that "calibrate" the vanes. The vacuum servo only responds to vac to close the vanes, if it is fully relaxed, the thing slams open and you get no boost. This is a good thing, it is called a safety factor. Here's what I observed when reassembling my turbos tho:

In the stock position (where the dirt marked it's previous location) the vac actuator was just about fully relaxed on one turbo, and slightly more compressed on the other. I can't remember exactly which was which right now, its been a while. My theory is this: If the vacuum actuator is compressed more, that would be exerting more pressure to hold the vanes open, yes. But the stop screw is doing its job. What it is also doing, is reducing the amount of vacuum needed to request full boost from the turbo, leading to FASTER response time.

Maybe?

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Hey Folks,

Just put my GT2056V turbocharger back in today. Purchased the rebuild kit from www.gpopshop.com. Kit is called the Garret GT15-25 Turbo Rebuild Kit. The guys at gpop-shop are great resourses too (Jim/Gerry). I machined a special collar that was used to unscrew (L thread) the impeller from the shaft - this was the trickiest part of the whole thing - designed the collar so it does not mar the impeller nose. In addition, there is a tricky spiral ring that is used to retain the main journal bearing inside the turbo. Used a set of dental picks to install the new one - that was a pain.

Took it for a spin this afternoon after the install and it ran beautifully. Smooth acceleration compared to before. Before the rebuild, I pulled my VNT apart it was pretty sooty w/ carbon buildup. Used Hoppe's #9 gun cleaner plus the spray bottle cleaner that Hoppe's offeres for removing carbon from firearms. I let all the parts soak in it for a ~ week and came out shiny new. Used brake cleaner to remove the oily residue caused by the Hoppe's #9. The VNT is supposed to go back together DRY AND CLEAN- no lubricant as lubricant will attract future soot and cause VNTs to stick. Remember that this is only actuated by vacuum. So sensitive that you should be able to suck on the vacuum (with your mouth) inlet to your actuator and move the VNT manually.

If you have any questions feel free to ask. So far so good with the turbo rebuild. I'm glad I did it.

You sure you have a CRD turbo? The vacuum actuator on both of mine is HARD to move even with just fingers pressing on the shaft - There isn't any way I would be able to move that actuator with just my mouth suction.

As for the journal bearing... Tell me more about this "spiral" thing you found. There wasn't anything like that in mine when I rebuilt the cartridge. The only retainer I could see was a little "spinning top" looking wheel with a pin sticking out top and bottom. It matched a recess in the journal bearing, to keep the bearing from rotating.

I have not yet installed this rebuilt turbo, but the action on the center cartridge now is zero play, and smooth rotation. I'm expecting it to perform flawlessly.

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

That's weird, I can move the actuators on both my CRDs with just mouth suction.

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05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.

Yes - its weird. Now I understand why the guts of the VNTs have to be kept clean and dry. Inside the VNT is a set of pins with rollers. The rollers are connected to the ring which works to rotate the vanes. When I had mine apart, the pins and rollers are bronze (or brass? - but that would be softer) and the ring is steel (possibly stainless).