TB Swap - give me the courage

WolverineFW · **Posted:** Thu Apr 12, 2012 7:15 pm

papaindigo wrote:

I concur but being my own customer I did not mind at all; in fact I loved the result but not the hassle of getting the fan and shroud out in the first place even though I knew what I was getting into when I started.

Sir Sam can make you a convertible if you want? I think he has a showroom model in his yard. :mrgreen:

flman · **Posted:** Fri Apr 13, 2012 9:31 am

Mark the cam sprockets, fuel pump, and crank sprocket with the same marks to the belt, transfer marks to new belt being sure the cog count is correct and it is fail proof as long as you do not turn any of the 4 sprockets. I did however lock the cam sprockets with pins, not sure how easy they would turn unlocked?

JPinnell · **Posted:** Mon Jul 23, 2012 10:58 am

My "Level 3" TB Swap is complete thanks to Sir Sams writeup. It took most of the weekend (I worked slowly in the 100º heat) to get everything removed, swapped, and back in place. The Libby had 109K on it, but very little wear on the TB or Water Pump. Some light dusting in the timing cover but it would have gone much longer.

I bought a set of cam locking pins from a member here and I had some other bits from a VW TB tool kit. I used a 19/32 drill bit for the crank locking pin. I used the kit from ID Parts with an OEM water pump. I also purchased 2 gals of coolant from the dealer. All told about $750 for the swap.

Getting the slack out between the injection pump and crank while still keeping the crank aligned was the trickiest part. I had to pull the drill bit out so I could wiggle the crank. I cheated and placed the belt on the tensioner and then pulled the tensioner in place with the bolt. It took a few tries to get that right. Some cardboard shims between the belt and the housing helped hold everything in place too. The whole process was doable but very detail involved. If you're going to attempt it stay focused and block out the time with no distractions.

The money saved will be going to GED for an ECO Tune once the bank account recovers a bit.

Thanks to Sir Sam for his detailed writeup.

- JP

Sir Sam · **Posted:** Mon Jul 23, 2012 11:02 am

glad to have helped

striperman36 · **Posted:** Mon Jul 23, 2012 8:40 pm

Sir Sam wrote:

papaindigo wrote:

I see light dawns in the West now that Sir Sam has posted a water pump shortcut. Great news as I had not seen the addition to his timing belt post. I'm delighted to get confirmation that replacing the front 1/2 of the water pump is an acceptable alternative to the PITA nuts to remove the whole thing.

I will note though that there is no need to remove the grill/ac condensor/intercooler to get access although if you do want to go to that trouble the access would be wonderful.

Just about everyone at 100k is going to have the same intercooler leak....which means you really ought to pull the intercooler, clean it, and JB weld it there.

What causes the inter cooler leak? I did not test it, I was happy to just get the thing back together

CATCRD · **Posted:** Mon Jul 23, 2012 9:36 pm

I think it's the thermal fatigue from constantly expanding and contracting when the turbo spools up. The air entering the cooler there can be 315F under full boost, and then goes almost down to ambient when you let off the pedal. Mine was leaking there too. I took it out to pour JB between the plates.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Mon Jul 23, 2012 10:53 pm

What will adequately clean the intercooler so JB Weld will not fall off?

DOC

CATCRD · **Posted:** Mon Jul 23, 2012 11:25 pm

I used engine degreaser to get the accumulated gunk off and then brake cleaner.

striperman36 · **Posted:** Tue Jul 24, 2012 10:00 am

I'll look at this on mine after my vacation since the Mule is parked while the family vehicle is used to get up to the Maine Cabin.

TB Swap - give me the courage

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