Blown Head gasket, and maybe more - looking for advice

jthomas999 · **Joined:** Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:51 pm **Posts:** 98

261,000 miles
Cruising down the highway at 65 mph
Engine starts running rough, then dies
Put transmission into Neutral
Lots of smoke behind me
Lo cool on dash

After stopping, no coolant on the ground, and the oil looks normal - no milky white

So, I started taking things apart and have run into a snag. I have the Turbo off, and it seems to be in good shape - no sided to side, and only a tiny amount of front to back. The snag is that I don't know how ti\o remove teh Turbo oil supply line from teh block so I don't break it when I pull the exhaust manifold off. I have loosened the collar down by the block, but it appears to be stuck. I would rather not break it an have to spend $79 on a replacement.

2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, SAMCO CAC hoses, GDE Eco tune.

Does this pull out of the block?

Any assistance greatly appreciated.

John

flman · **Posted:** Sun Mar 02, 2014 4:46 pm

jthomas999 wrote:

261,000 miles
Cruising down the highway at 65 mph
Engine starts running rough, then dies
Put transmission into Neutral
Lots of smoke behind me
Lo cool on dash

After stopping, no coolant on the ground, and the oil looks normal - no milky white

So, I started taking things apart and have run into a snag. I have the Turbo off, and it seems to be in good shape - no sided to side, and only a tiny amount of front to back. The snag is that I don't know how ti\o remove teh Turbo oil supply line from teh block so I don't break it when I pull the exhaust manifold off. I have loosened the collar down by the block, but it appears to be stuck. I would rather not break it an have to spend $79 on a replacement.

2006 Jeep Liberty CRD, SAMCO CAC hoses, GDE Eco tune.

Does this pull out of the block?

Any assistance greatly appreciated.

John

I pulled my manifold with the turbo bolted on. I only removed the banjo bolt I was able to gain enough clearance without detaching the oil supply from the engine, it had to bend a little though.

Notice my turbo is still bolted on. But you will have have some socket and swivel skills to pull this one off. :mrgreen:

4 Nuts on the top and 3 on the bottom. The return line just simply slips out of the block on a grommet if I am remembering correctly? Also, just loosen but do not remove the header pipe clamp.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sun Mar 02, 2014 4:59 pm

Slow down for a bit. Have you confirmed combustion gas in the coolant as opposed to just low coolant? When was your last timing belt job done and have you checked timing; belt could have gone in which case you only need to do a TB job and new rockers.? Have you checked your CAC hoses for splits and the turbo variable vanes for proper movement as either can kill power and produce lots of smoke; split in a CAC hose or boost solenoid failure can do this on the fly?

As to your question the turbo play you describe is just fine in fact it sounds very tight. As to the oil supply line. Since you say the turbo is off I assume you removed the supply line at the "banjo" bolt end on the turbo and that the line is now sticking out in the air still attached to the block. Take a close look at the supply line pic. at http://idparts.com/catalog/product_info ... ts_id=3209 and pic #9 at viewtopic.php?f=98&t=74594 . Once that collar is backed all the way off there really is nothing holding the supply line in place as the end is simply a bulb like thing (knuckle) that fits into a recess in the block plug. It's possible that its friction "welded" in place in which case a good penetrating lube soak should free it up.

jthomas999 · **Joined:** Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:51 pm **Posts:** 98

No, I didn't check for combustion gas in the coolant. It cranks very unevenly and won't start.
Timing belt was done about 15,000 miles ago.
CAC hoses look good.
I removed the banjo bolt easily enough, but the other end is stuck in the block. I will go and spray it with penetrating fluid and see if that will free it up.

Thanks for the responses and suggestions.

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Hexus · **Posted:** Sun Mar 02, 2014 9:48 pm

You most likely have a broken rocker/lifter issue.

Search Youtube for video so you can hear what it sounds like.

jthomas999 · **Joined:** Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:51 pm **Posts:** 98

OK, Update: trying to roll engine around to pull timing belt off I am getting a hard stop. I don't think this is a head gasket anymore.
I am going to pull the injectors and valve cover and see how bad it is......

jthomas999 · **Joined:** Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:51 pm **Posts:** 98

Pulled the intake off, and I have 1 valve spring taller than the rest. It looks like I dropped a valve. I hope to pull the head tomorrow to see if the block is junk.

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Mike92104 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 03, 2014 7:07 am

If it did drop a valve, don't despair.

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_1_134/1482 ... oject.html

jthomas999 · **Joined:** Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:51 pm **Posts:** 98

Thanks, I found that too. It looks like a lot of good information.

I'm developing my attack plan now. With 261,000 on the clock, I'm leaning towards a rebuild.
The question is should I try and reuse any of the wear item type parts, or just replace all of them? I'm talking about pistons, rod bearings, valves, valve springs, rocker arms, camshafts.

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DOC4444 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 03, 2014 3:37 pm

I would check with the VM Specialist in the UK. They generally rebuild the London taxis (same motor) at 300K miles.

DOC

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Tue Mar 04, 2014 12:56 am

You could buy a good cylinder head from VM Specialist, and then the sleeves, pistons, bearing, and seals from IDParts. (That's what I have done) I'll be starting to tear the block down tmrw.

jlgail4309 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 07, 2014 10:49 pm

What's the cost for a new motor

Hexus · **Posted:** Sat Mar 08, 2014 12:46 pm

jlgail4309 wrote:

What's the cost for a new motor

Cheapest I've seen yet, has no turbo, no plugs, no injectors, no EGR, no anything except the motor, head, and intake, was $3500 rebuilt. I haven't seen it again either.

I believe the standard atm is around $5500.

jlgail4309 · **Posted:** Sat Mar 08, 2014 1:39 pm

That don't sound to bad any warranty.

jthomas999 · **Joined:** Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:51 pm **Posts:** 98

1 valve spring higher than the others

Head - Cylinder 1

Block - Cylinder 1

Block - Cylinder wall #1

I'm thinking - time for a new head

I need to pull the block to see if the bottom end is trashed.

OK, the pictures work fine if you open in another link. I must be missing something.

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Mon Mar 10, 2014 5:21 am

jthomas999 wrote:

1 valve spring higher than the others

Head - Cylinder 1

Block - Cylinder 1

Block - Cylinder wall #1

I'm thinking - time for a new head

I need to pull the block to see if the bottom end is trashed.

OK, the pictures work fine if you open in another link. I must be missing something.

I ordered a cylinder head form VM Specialist and was very pleased. It looks brand new.

jthomas999 · **Joined:** Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:51 pm **Posts:** 98

Is this

http://www.vmdieselspecialist.com/

who you ordered your parts from?

Mike92104 · **Posted:** Wed Mar 12, 2014 2:52 pm

jthomas999 wrote:

Is this

http://www.vmdieselspecialist.com/

who you ordered your parts from?

I ordered a complete cylinder head from them. I just gave them a call with my credit card number. It took about 2 weeks for it to arrive, and when it did, it looked nearly new.

My other parts came from idparts.com.

Mike

geordi · **Posted:** Wed Mar 12, 2014 6:32 pm

If you choose to call them, be aware that they are on London time, 5 hours ahead of Eastern time. I called them in the morning (their time) and it was VERY morning for me, around 530am. They were quite pleasant to work with, and the parts are top notch and genuine VM.

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jthomas999 · **Joined:** Mon Jan 16, 2012 11:51 pm **Posts:** 98

A new head at Idparts is about $1700. How did their price compare?

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Blown Head gasket, and maybe more - looking for advice

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