papaindigo wrote:
For what it's worth:
1. something about greiswig's picture doesn't look quite right for the referenced sensors on an 05, at least it doesn't look like the ones on my 05 perhaps because the picture is so close in that I cannot see the surrounding area. On my 05 there is a sensor, similar to the forward one, that screws into the fuel rail and if my notes are right that's the fuel rail pressure sensor 515963AA or Bosch 0281002534. However, a) I cannot see the ridges on the intake elbow which should be below that sensor and 2) the MAP sensor does not plug into the fuel rail like this one appears too although the place it plugs in may be hidden under something, in my case it's a wire loom cover but mine looks different. As I understand it this sensor tells the ECU when there is enough rail pressure to "fire" the injectors; low pressure or bad wiring or bad sensor = no fire.
I have the Week's intake elbow on it, and the wiring loom plastic is hiding the MAP sensor itself in that picture. MAP sensor is mounted directly to the intake manifold, and the connectors on that little sub-loom are for the MAP and that FPS. They are very different connectors and can't be mixed.
papaindigo wrote:
2. the sensor at the back end of the rail is if my notes are right the fuel rail or fuel pressure solenoid/valve 5159964AA or Bosch 0281002705 that dumps excess fuel back to the tank. It's my understanding that the plug on this sensor is identical to the one on #4 injector such that they can easily be confused if the #4 injector loses its label; switching these plugs = no fire. Similarly bad wiring or a bad sensor dumps fuel too early = no pressure = no fire. My first bet is you have swapped these electric plugs
Yes, same connector as the injectors. I did scratch "IIII" onto the fourth injector connector, and there is even enough of the label there to make out the words "INJ" and what is likely a 4. Add to that, all the color codes on all the injectors match up with what is in the '05 FSM.
But the colors on that rear connector do
not match the FSM. If that item at the rear of the rail is the "Fuel Quantity Solenoid," the FSM calls for it to have BR/LG and BR/YL wires. Mine, however, has DB/DG and BR/RD.
papaindigo wrote:
3. after opening the system the rail should self bleed after a few crank cycles and fire just fine. If you want you can pop the #3 or 4 injector fuel line and bump the starter a few times to partially bleed the rail. I don't know but what your in line pump might just push enough fuel thru the CP3 to do this on its own.
I went ahead and picked the #1 injector line yesterday, since the engine seems to tilt back and that should be near the high point. I got a clean piece of clear PVC tubing and put that over the compression fitting, put the other end into a plastic bottle. I cranked the engine for about 8-10 seconds, and watched fuel creep slowly into the tube after only a few seconds. There was no gush or anything as I had expected there might be. I reconnected that line and tried cranking again, but still got no attempt at firing.
That seemed like very little fuel volume. On a 1/4" ID hose, I'd say I filled about 5" of it over the course of around 5 seconds. Is that normal for a high pressure/low volume pump?
papaindigo wrote:
4. there has been at least one recent report of no fire being due to a bad/sticking injector dumping too much fuel back into the return which IIRC = low pressure = no fire. Look around for the post as it's not hard to measure the relative amount of return.
I had seen that thread, and put that in the back of my mind as a worthwhile test should I start to get symptoms. I suppose this is possible right now, but given that the injectors were running fine when they were removed, it seemed unlikely that sitting sealed on a shelf for the past month would cause one or more to go bad.
papaindigo wrote:
5. lots of forum debate about "timing" the CP3; I have no opinion but I do think it's worth marking the CP3 pulley teeth and adjacent cover so the CP3 stays as "timed" as it was when it left the factory (i.e. stays in the same position relative to the cams and crank). While there is a "timing" mark I have no clue how to "retime" the pump if it or the cams/crank get moved during the job you just did UNLESS when you started you did so with the pump timing marks lined up but that happens only every 3 engine revolutions.
Best I an do for now.
That's a lot, and I do appreciate it. I may break back in and put the fuel pump back where I saw it when I pulled the timing belt off, but...to me there is clearly something wrong besides just fuel pressure. The fact that I got a P0192 code before I had even cranked it, and can readily replicate that same code without cranking (just ignition on) tells me that something else is askew. I may have a pressure issue as well, but if the ECM isn't trying to fire the injectors because of this code, I can bleed the system til the cows come home and it won't do any good. Similarly, if that code is making some regulator stay open or something, then I won't get pressure in there until I fix the code issue. Does that make sense?
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