Need some advice on next steps, without breaking the bank.

Q1) The "Brake" warning light came on, and after brake service by local shop, light is still on. Do I need to use my ODB-II tool to remove error code? If not, what should I consider in finding the problem?

Q2) After brake service by local shop, emergency brake has no braking capability, where before shop visit, it functioned fine. Do I take it back to the same shop, or go have the brakes serviced at another shop, not trusting the local shop?

Background: 2006 Liberty CRD, Sport, ~78,000 miles. I ran out of time to do my brakes before a long road trip. The brakes were feeling weak, and the "Brake" light came on. I took it to the "best" referred, local hole-in-wall auto shop in our small town. I was charged for replaced rotors, brake pads, one caliper (leaking), labor, and extra inspection and testing of the brake master cylinder.

What I got back was no braking capability for the emergency brake, and the "Brake" light is still on. The brakes feel "correct" stopping the Liberty, but no e-brake. Initially, I thought it would be easy for them to adjust the e-brake star wheel, and maybe they forgot. Work began late on a Saturday, and I went back following Monday to discuss with the shop. The owner started in on a song-and-dance about how they don't do emergency brakes. Next, it was that no one uses emergency brakes anymore. Next, none of their customers have any emergency brake worries or concerns. "Car companies don't put emergency brakes on cars, anymore", (quote!) He repeated the above series several times. (Ever see TV shows of shoplifters confronted in the parking lot by store security agents?) I told him I tow trailers, park on hills, and park trailers on hills. The emergency brake was working fine before taking to the shop. I was so shocked at his reply, so embarrassed for him, that I forgot to ask about the "Brake" light.

I assumed that he was not going to accept responsibility, and wanted more money. Then, I started thinking that maybe he pulled the e-brake pads, did not replace, or broke the tightening mechanism. (I haven't checked to see if new rear rotors are in place.) His best offer was for me to leave it over-night, or come back the next day. And leave it. "I'll take a look at it." No urgency or acceptance of something wrong with the work.

The brakes on the Jeep are nearly identical to my 1999 Ford F150, which I have owned since new, and have changed the brakes many times. I understand what is involved. Either star wheel needs adjustment, e-brake lever harness adjustment, or both. That would be easy, as long as brake pads are not missing or broken.

Take it back after already expensive maintenance for "free" follow up resolution, or invest in another (again, unknown quality) standard brake shop and know that the brakes are "right"? (I am NOT paying the local shop extra money.)

You can get copies of the FSM and parts manuals at http://colorado4wheel.com/manuals/Jeep/KJ/

Q1 - if your code reader can pull and clear the code by all means do so and see if it stays off. If it comes back it could be as simple as a bad brake pedal or parking brake position sensor switch.

Q2 - based on what the local shop told you they are at best lying idiots and I would not go back. The parking brake is nothing but a simple cable activated old school drum brake housed inside the hubs of the 2 rear rotors. My first guess is they pulled the rear rotors and when they were reinstalled they failed to hook up the parking brake cable(s). Alternatively as you suggest the star wheel(s) need attention.

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Thank you for your prompt reply.

Going back is not an option. I tried backing down the slope in my driveway a few times, pulling on the ebrake lever several times on the way down. Improved braking from "0" to slightly perceptible. I tried it out on the Interstate this morning, it seems to drag evenly, without pulling as though only one set was stopping the Jeep. Therefore, I assume mechanics are still there, I just need to properly adjust ebrake and cable. I will fix myself, as I should have initially. Brake light went out for a while after the "adjustment", again hinting basic adjustment is solution. If worse that that, I will find out soon. Although it does not explicitly reference, the FSM and pictures show it is the same design as any standard drum brake, where adjustment is intended to be automatic when backing and braking. Case closed.

Off topic, that FSM is an impressive file. Do I need to be saying any "Hail, Mary's" for downloading it, or is this provided to the public via the bankruptcy? Thank you for the reference, regardless.

This link to adjusting the parking brake might be helpful viewtopic.php?t=14757&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=adjust+emergency+brake&start=15

_________________
Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

There is cool way to tighten up the parking brake at the handle too. I got mine back to 3-4 clicks before tight. You have to get under the center console, I was able to do it by removing just the storage box. There is a tab on the cable spool that you hold then lift the brake handle up. This will snug up the cable tension.

_________________
2002 Liberty Limited
2.5" Rusty's Coil Lift + OME 927 springs + 1/4" spacers
265x70 Revos
Warn 4x Floods
ARB bumper
TeraFlex extended front bumpstops
Rock Lizard Skink Super Sliders
Bosch Size 86 battery
Jeepin by Al's 4.5 UC Arms
Kryptonite Differential Cover
JBA Bolt on KJ Tri-Angulated 4 Link

Looking at the 7 O'clock position from your sketched circle, isn't that the switch that triggers the red light on the dash for the parking brake being set?

I'm thinking the switch could also trigger a beeper or chime in parallel with the light, while the key is on with the parking brake set.

Now I've got to figure out where to locate a not-too-terribly obnoxious 12V chime to experiment with.

_________________
'06 Liberty Limited CRD.
149K miles.
- Timing belt done.
- Weeks Kit Stage 1.
- Weeks Kit Stage 2.
- JBA 2.5 inch Silver kit and UCAs installed at 125K miles.
- Weeks supplied Samco Intercooler Hoses and clamps.

Waiting for time, limber fingers, and good weather to do my HDS Model 001 Thermostat unit swap.

They actually don't put emergency brakes on cars anymore. They call them parking brakes, because suggesting that something will save you in an emergency is too much of a liability for the automaker.

But more to the point, why don't you just adjust the star wheels if you know how it works? They probably cranked them all the way in so they could get the rotors off and forgot to set them back out again.

_________________
05CRD: GDE Hot ECU & TCM tunes, Provent, Cat filter, Facet lift pump, TransGo kit, Florida TC, Samcos, stainless brake lines, HDS thermostat, Renegade light bar,
Bilstein adjustables, Al's Gen 4.5 Arms, 235/85-16 Duratracs, DTT rear, Elocker front, EVIC+TPMS, Turbo timer, McNally pillar gauges, Weeks Stage II kit.