I am thinking catch can......

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Feb/2006 Silver Sport 4x4 CRD

Yepppp.....like what's used on a 2nd GEN (1998.5>>2002) 24V Cummins Turbo Diesel; I'd bet one could be sourced from Dodge fairly cheap or make your own from a Tylenol (or your favorite brand) of aspirin / pain reliever bottle.

Greg

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2015 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited 3.6L and A8
*SOLD*2005 Jeep Liberty Limited 4x4 CRD, Bright Silver Metallic, Dk/Lt Slate Gray Leather w/bun warmers, 5 spd auto, 22G pkg, Trailer Tow, 3.73 Rear Axle w/Trac-Lok Differential, P235/70R16 Firestone Destination LE's, Power Sunroof, Selec-Trac 4WD, Infinity 6-Disc In-Dash, Magnaflow #15870 System.

Hey... new to the CRD scene, just picked my 06 Sport CRD up a few weeks ago. I have been perusing the boards looking at the TSB's and such and verifying mine is not included in any of the problem build date ranges. Thankfully - none apply. Anyhow folks seem to making a lot of the CCV oil/intercooler thing, so I looked into it this morning.

With 2K miles on it I have just a light oily residue at both the inlet and outlet to the intercooler. With the pics I have seen posted I was expecting to see quite a bit more. I bought the CRD for the fuel economy so maybe mine doesn't build as much pressure in the crankcase as others that get driven harder. As it is, I think I won't bother with venting the crankcase to the open air and just wait for the 'old navy' filter - and keep the revs down until then.

This is actually only my second turbo diesel - the other is SWMBO's VW TDI Beetle. Her turbo/intercooler/intake manifold all have the same nastiness. I just washed out her intercooler not too long ago - I wonder if, once they become available, I could adapt the 'old navy' filter to her bug...?

I thought the same thing when I first bought mine, was a bad move to procrastinate on this issue. As for the cleaning up the mess, nobody has stepped foreward with a way to wash out this intercooler short of turning your Jeep upside-down to drain the cleaning fluid. An ounce of prevention will be worth a ton of cure on this product. Recommend you Provent or open vent and wait for Old Navy's filter.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

I don't drive mine hard. I got it to commute >35Kmiles/year. Mine wasn't coated in oil but it had enough in there to make me nervous. Now that I've done the open vent I see oil spots where I park.

For the benefit of younger forum members, some of whom have asked what the CCV does in the first place, others why doing the open-CCV mod is illegal, I'd like to explain.

The CCV system is the first step in cleaning up the pollution from an internal combustion engine. It was put into place by law in 1967, and resulted in an (approximately) 85% reduction in total pollutants, mostly unburned hydrocarbons in those first "cleaner" engines. It is illegal, and should be, because in the case of more modern, tightly controlled, and less polluting engines, it is responsible for probably an even higher percentage of the total emmissions.

If you do this mod, then set about burning biodiesel, your total contribution to the Green Causes is a net negative of huge proportions. If you continue to burn regular petroleum diesel, you become a bigger problem to the environment than the entire rest of your block.

I'm sure somebody is going to point out that there are some diesel engines in modern (well, relatively) vehicles that don't have a CCV. This is certainly so, but I'd point out that the heavy vehicles in which these engines run are not subject to the same rules as the much more plentiful lighter vehicles such as the Libby. Pickups are not subject to the same rules as cars.

If you make this modification and get caught, DC is required by law to void your engine warranty. There are some hefty fines if the State or Federal authorities get wind of it. Don't do it. It is a lot cheaper to do what it does in the right way: install a Provent or Old Navy's CCV valve. $100-$150 is a cheap cure for this problem, and really cheap way to make your contribution to insuring we can all breathe in the future, even if you don't live in LA.

I have no intention of doing this any longer than I have to. I'd rather not have to do it at all. As soon as Old Navy's solution is available I'll jump on it.

Update: It's been 9 days since I've done this. I've lost probably half a quart of oil. When I changed oil when doing the open vent it was right near max fill....now it's almost down to the min fill line. I know where it's going. You can see all the oil spots on the driveway.

That's just the point, NetJunkie: you don't HAVE to do the open-CCV mod at all, ever. While there is plenty of anecdotal evidence that preventing oil from getting into the intake is good for the engine, there is also plenty of evidence that a thousand miles or three with the stock system is going to make no difference.

The Old Navy filter may or may not come to pass -- remember, until you have one IN YOUR HAND to install, it is "vaporware." Oh, I'm sure he has every intention of following through to completion, but he could get hit by a truck this very afternoon. In the meantime, there are proven alternatives available, one being the ProVent. And, of course, you could just wait on Old Navy to deliver and take your chances.

The reality is you don't loose that much oil out the crancase vent. My Provent collected @ 3oz of oil in 6K miles. It's going elsewhere, most likely through your turbo seals.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

It's coming out the open vent tube I put on. Would that still be the turbos? I drive a lot. In 9 days I've put on 1K miles. I parked backwards in my driveway yesterday while unloading a trailer. The driveway is sloped so the nose is down therefore the vent tube was down. It looks like gravity helped a good bit of oil as it left by far the largest oil spot there in just two or three hours.

A thousand miles or three may not make a difference. But, by the time Old Navy's filter is out I'll probably have at least 10K miles on the Liberty. I have to drive a lot. So far he looks like he's on schedule. If a problem comes up I'll just get a Provent and do that. I don't want to do this any longer than I have to. I don't like exhausting it to the air but I *NEED* this car to last 200K miles.

NetJunkie,
You shouldn't be seeing the kind of oil loss you describe. You may have other things going on like turbo seals. You would have to clean your intercooler hoses and then keep an eye on them for a while to see. On my open vent setup I brought the hose up 3 or 4 inches as soon as it left the valve. I think this encourages drainback to the engine. I have yet to see the first drop of oil on the driveway in 3000 miles. I don't think the open vent should be viewed as a permanent solution, but I don't see it as an environmental catastrophe either. For one thing I have less exhaust smoke from mine since doing it. For another I'm sure the catalytic converter functions better without the oil soot to deal with. As for the warranty aspect the sad truth is DC will try to void the warranty with a Provent also or with bio concentrations greater than 5%. My open vent is a stopgap. I want to see the Old Navy rig, and frankly I want others to be the lab rats for it and the Provent. By Fall I will be doing something other than an open vent. It probably varies from one area to another, but around here there are a lot of diesel pickups running around. The majority of which are open vent from the factory. I think a closed CCV makes sense, but DC screwed this one up bad and they are probably not going to fix it. Owners and the aftermarket will have to come up with an answer.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

I might try that and see what happens. Mine doesn't have any rise before it drops down. My guess of 1/2 quart is just that, a guess. When filling it up I noticed it went from barely showing on the dipstick to full really fast so I may only be down 1/4 quart. I have no doubt that half of that is on my driveway out there. The other half is on the road or in the parking lot at work.

That rise is important weither using a provent or open vent. I installed the Provent with the same rise. Used a J-pipe to divert the plumbing toward the back of the motor where the hoses rise over the top of the coolant tank then down to the Provent. Provides some hose length and rise to allow oil to condense and backflow to the motor. Something as simple as a single upward "loop" in the vent hose may help, just make sure the loop is the correct direction as not to create a fluid trap.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

Net Junkie,

Another possibility is that the dipstick on your engine is off. If you change your own oil you can find out easy. Add the 6.4 quarts and see where that shows on the stick after you have run the engine and given it time to drain back. Even before you change the oil you may want to avoid topping the oil off if you can do so and still stay in the safe range on the stick. The oil consumption may stabilize at some level. As long as it is above the add mark when it stabilizes, I'd run it there.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

I just did my first oil change at 3107 mi. and after careful measuring the oil and letting it sit over night before rechecking, mine was at the top edge of M of the MIN. with 6.4 qts. That tells me that some of the sticks must be off, plus only letting it sit for 5 minutes like the book says before checking makes me laugh. Even though it is just a little 4-popper of an engine, it would take way longer than 5 minutes to completely drain all the oil back in the pan. My $.02.

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Flame Red 2005 Rubicon Unlimited, 4.0L, 6sp, dual tops, Amsoil ASL 5W30 engine oil and EAO42 filter, IPF 920hc head light conversion with PIAA Xtreme White plus bulbs, Sylvania Silverstar H3ST fogs, Armadillo front/rear bumper caps and pretty much loaded.A few pics of my rig. http://www.gwkweather.net/id5.html

TDI's were the same way, check it the next morning to be sure, otherwise you never really knew how much
was still up in the engine.

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2005 Silver Limited CRD 53,000 miles
GDE EcoTune / Trans tune
PML Differential Cover/Crankcase Mod
Tal & Hadas Grill Guard/TransGo Shift Kit
V-6 AirBox/Lunar Boost & EGT
Lund Cold Weather Grill Insert
OEM updated Filter Head, Cummins Lift Pump

For what it worth, I always check a big diesel before it is first started cold. Seems to produce the most accurate readings. Rule of thumb, won't add until it gets close to the add mark then only 1/2 the amount it calls for to bring to the full mark. I determined "full" on my CRD to be 1/8" below full on the stick the morning after an oil change and 6.4 qts on refill.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.