key trick doesnt seem to work.... pci bus - that would explain it, but it has obd-II connector so i assumed it would talk. Just noticed that i have a voyager pump not a kj waterpump, it has no lobes for the viscous heater. so now i'll guess i'll strip it down again.... Done it again

yeah got the export workshop manual. Its been very helpful so far......

Key trick should work...I use it often...you have to rapidly turn the key ON/OFF 4 times although lots of owners say three times

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2002 Export CRD 2.5 Sport

If key trick works keep in mind that sometimes at least the last 2 digits are transposed.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

Update. Having put it all back together, it is a lot better but still not right.

So to recap:
New timing belt waterpump. new racor Fuel filter & fuel hose clamps. new injector seals, inspected rockers.
No Check engine light no codes to pull.


It has a fair turn of speed now, and will wheelspin standing still (which it would not do before). It Idle and drives well enough but still at low throttle from 900-2000 rpm is shaking/misfire/offbeat. after this it is fine and will rev to the limit.

I need help..

ok its somthing restricting fuel delivery, you must check low pressure side first! start from fuel tank to cp3 pump we covered this area many times before it is poorly design , if that area is ok , then you can proceed to the high pressure side , you should had test injectors while you had them out but its ok ,start with basics first,

As I have full rpm band and power delivery can we discount the Lp side of the fuel system? It is only on light throttle, full throttle and it runs fine... Unless I'm missing something. The injectors come out easy so sending them for testing is no problem - I have tried not to make too many changes at any one time to prove each item as we go... and keep costs down

I think that it is either injectors, or cp3 related. I need to understand the points at which the cp3 pump gets to maximum pressure before bleeding off excess - there may be a possibility that the fuel rail pressure up unti " 2000 rpm light load" is too low and after this point pressure is increased due to pump rpm..

If only I could see pressure values on diagnostic then this could discount the cp3.

I really appreciate all the help guys - I hate to be beaten by mechanical issues!!

ok if lp side is 100% no air in fuel, etc,,,, all fuel lines sending unit in tank is clean, then high press side is next, don't pull injectors just do fuel return flow test (4 cups and 4 small clear hoses ,)

OK so leak off test completed

See photos below, I ran the test twice.

Cold Engine, Cam position sensor unplugged. 10 Seconds of cranking.

Notes on test 1 - Injector 1& 4 were low down the tubes and 2 & three much higher. I swore there was no leak off at all on injector 4 but the photo does show a small amount..

Injector 1

Injector 2

Injector3

Injector 4

Test 2 - same again but ontop of existing fluid in pipes ..
Injector1

Injector2

Injector 3

Injector 4


so on test 2 it can be seen that 3 is a clear winner returning the most, 4 is returning the least

Why did you unplug the cam sensor?
Will the engine even run with the cam sensor unplugged?

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U.S. Army Retired

i read that the test should be done with the cam sensor removed so the car doesnt run...

so I can assume at the moment that inj 3 is returning too much (blockage?) and 4 is very low (leaking) and that 1&2 are the normal as these are close in leak off amount?

penny for your thoughts gentlemen.

The way I've done the test is:
1. connect the fuel return tubes and bottles
2. start the engine and let it run at idle till some fuel gets into the bottles
3. empty the bottles
4. start the engine and let it run at idle for a minute or two to fill the bottles again
5. compare the fuel levels of the bottles

In my opinion, running the test with the engine not running (only cranking) is inconclusive because the injectors are not spraying any fuel into the cylinders.
The idea is to compare the amount returned vs. the amount injected.
You cant measure the amount injected, but you can measure the amount returned.

If one injector is returning more than the others then that one injector is spraying less into the cylinder.
Conversely, in one is returning less then it is spraying more into the cylinder.
All four injectors should be returning about the same amounts and therefore injecting the same amounts.

_________________
U.S. Army Retired

ok so looking here from a memeber of this forum:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8HRaB ... zZTUy/view

There are 2 tests one with CPS removed and crank, and another is your way!

I guess that I'll be doing it with the engine running later

i have limited resourses here so i guess I'll run it until it reaches the top of one of the pipes to compare. thanks for the input!

also to note there was some kind of injection as I had a white diesel cloud when i started her up post tests. I have noticed I had a v. small diesel cloud (smells of unburnt diesel) when first starting after standing overnight, which i think maybe a leaky injector into cylinder.. to note it starts on the button everytime. no excessive cranking.

you are right possibly one of injectors dripping into the cylinder, do this test like FlASH did, back in old days we would remove exhaust manifold, and plug turbo feed line and watch for smoke signals.

Idling cold test - 5minutes


10 Seconds cranking test again.



so the injectors returning is pretty regular, no major differentials. again 1 & 4 are returning less overall.

I put clear hoses from fuel filter in/out and did notice that some air was coming into engine from filter housing. no bubbles from tank supply hose. taken head off and put it under possitive pressure with no leaks? for the minute it is running on an inline filter to bypass the housing. no change.

I have made a video of what is happening...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JKgeHhM ... e=youtu.be

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/JKgeHhM62wY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

to me runs ok ,i have that stumble intermittent miss only at 1600 1800 rpm only in neutral , but ok when in drive , not sure , i say drive it ,probably its normal .

i know you want it to run perfect , I'm the same way. Mine does this only in neutral , not on the road , I don't know why? you said yours is also acting up on the road test , you need to speak to bosch tech and see if they want to help , may need injectors bench test?

Ok so if that is normal then I need to look at why performance is flat again. Is there a way to test boost pressure sensor readings with a multimeter

I think I'm going to fit a lift pump as there was bubbles coming in from the filter head even though it pressure tested fine. This may be some of the driveability issues

Its possible but it wont tell you much.
The signal wire coming off the MAP will give you a 0-5 volt signal.
0.1-1.0 volts is vaccum/low boost.
4.0-5.0 volts is high boost.

I cant tell you exactly what voltages you should be getting at a specific RPM. This is why I installed a boost gauge.
You can also use a ELM327 OBD-bluetooth adapter + TorquePro android app to view MAP and other sensor readings with your android phone or tablet.
Although I cant be certain that it will work with your vehicle.

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U.S. Army Retired

I'm affraid the ELM system doesnt work...

ok it was just a shot, I guess that if we knew that 5v is +2.5bar ? and we know the base voltage at idle we could work out boost pressure from that...

Other jobs - I have re-sealed the intake elbow which was leaking, and it has got a bit better, plus I think all the air is out of the system (still on the inline filter)..

Still feels restricted though.

If the turbo was going home, then boost delivery would be late, and not reach full boost (this has happened to me with petrol cars)? when does boost come in on these engines, and when does the power curve lean off? Maybe the white smoke on startup is oil exhaust side?