virgin crd owner, jeep is not wearing white

CATCRD · **Posted:** Mon Feb 08, 2016 2:26 am

ralphtonka wrote:

Could you explain your reasoning, it warms and temp gauge cycles 1/4-1/3 and holds, I have a ray tech and can shoot temps, no coolant loss, cabin heat is good...

If the stat were ok your gauge would point about 1 tick mark left of vertical and hold there.

dirtmover · **Posted:** Mon Feb 08, 2016 9:02 am

ralphtonka wrote:

Could you explain your reasoning, it warms and temp gauge cycles 1/4-1/3 and holds, I have a ray tech and can shoot temps, no coolant loss, cabin heat is good...

There are a few threads covering the different replacement options. You'll see a hit in fuel economy leaving it as is but given your anticipated usage I'd be tempted to do just that,

ralphtonka · **Joined:** Sun Feb 07, 2016 1:17 am **Posts:** 22

Here are the results of a local parts search,

napa t336 belt $200
wholesaler t336 $153

Stealership
timing belt $350
tensioner $172
idler x2@ $67=$134
tstat $228
watermpunp $614

$1498 and none if it is gold plated.

Has anyone changed bearings in idlers and tensioner? I have acces to a press, bearing heaters etc.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Feb 08, 2016 5:07 pm

Maybe I'm missing something but even allowing for the power USD>Canadian exchange rate all of this costs only ca. Canadian 550 +shipping from idparts. Maybe $650 with shipping and customs certainly not Canadian 1,500.

joelukex4 · **Joined:** Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:54 pm **Posts:** 386

On ebayca ID parts shows $580 for kit, $21.25 shipping & ~$62 for import fees. These prices are in Canadian dollars.

I would call them and save the ebay fee.

joelukex4 · **Joined:** Thu Sep 29, 2011 4:54 pm **Posts:** 386

Or you could buy the kit from Greece for ~$680 Canadian with free Intl shipping and get the timing pins included.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/TIMING-BELT-KIT- ... II&vxp=mtr

dirtmover · **Posted:** Mon Feb 08, 2016 9:01 pm

joelukex4 wrote:

On ebayca ID parts shows $580 for kit, $21.25 shipping & ~$62 for import fees. These prices are in Canadian dollars.

I would call them and save the ebay fee.

Like I said earlier ID treat us cross border shoppers well. $399 for the kit, $10 shipping plus 12% brokerage/customs/taxes. Convert to CAD and its less than half what you'll pay locally. If I were to have them ship to the border and bring the parts across myself I would pay 13% HST so the 12% they charge all in is a deal. Order direct and don't let eBay get their cut.

The idlers are plastic. I wouldn't trust their integrity if the bearing was replaced. The tensioner also includes a spring that would need replaced. I did do the bearings on the serpentine idlers, that's no problem.

ralphtonka · **Joined:** Sun Feb 07, 2016 1:17 am **Posts:** 22

Looks like the kit from IDparts is in order, some play in one of the idlers, belt is in ok shape but seems to be getting hard, not sure about the tensioner etc. Does anyone have a pic or dimension for the tb tensioner tool? Can the fan bearing be pressed out? any tricks or bearing numbers?

Thanks

Darren

rankom · **Posted:** Mon Feb 08, 2016 9:32 pm

i wouldn't do any shortcuts, i would remove everything. valve cover, rocker inspection and then order all the part at once. id parts sells VW belt tensioner tool aswell it works on the CRD.

papaindigo · **Posted:** Tue Feb 09, 2016 8:23 am

No pic or dimensions but it's just a pin spanner or you can use two long shaft 3mm hex keys per GDE. Stick the short end of each in the holes in the tensioner so that when you move the left hex key to the right it's long shaft hits the short shaft of the SORRY RIGHT hex key; adjust tension as needed; tighten down tensioner bolt (careful it engages is a helicoil insert in the aluminum cover)

ChesterCRD · **Posted:** Tue Feb 09, 2016 4:51 pm

Amazon has the Gates timing belt for $78.

ralphtonka wrote:

Here are the results of a local parts search,

napa t336 belt $200
wholesaler t336 $153

Stealership
timing belt $350
tensioner $172
idler x2@ $67=$134
tstat $228
watermpunp $614

$1498 and none if it is gold plated.

Has anyone changed bearings in idlers and tensioner? I have acces to a press, bearing heaters etc.

ralphtonka · **Joined:** Sun Feb 07, 2016 1:17 am **Posts:** 22

papaindigo wrote:

No pic or dimensions but it's just a pin spanner or you can use two long shaft 3mm hex keys per GDE. Stick the short end of each in the holes in the tensioner so that when you move the left hex key to the right it's long shaft hits the short shaft of the SORRY RIGHT hex key; adjust tension as needed; tighten down tensioner bolt (careful it engages is a helicoil insert in the aluminum cover)

Thanks, Got me it the right direction, now a wait for parts.....

Darren

rankom · **Posted:** Tue Feb 09, 2016 11:50 pm

well thats good but I'm going to say that many of us went through this procedure ,, twice,,, simply because we assume that rockers are ok and not to loose or worn out, simply we can not see them . trust me i didn't want to see them when i had to go in my engine the second time.

ralphtonka · **Joined:** Sun Feb 07, 2016 1:17 am **Posts:** 22

rankom wrote:

well thats good but I'm going to say that many of us went through this procedure ,, twice,,, simply because we assume that rockers are ok and not to loose or worn out, simply we can not see them . trust me i didn't want to see them when i had to go in my engine the second time.

I have the time, 370$ us in not the issue, I have found little to no info on 'how to' and I like pics...and its currently not broken, nobody wants to work on them around here, If you have a link or a lead ill inspect and replace parts as required.

Darren

papaindigo · **Posted:** Wed Feb 10, 2016 12:16 pm

There is a pretty good write-up with pictures at http://www.beesvillebeefarm.com/jeep.html .

Two comments though:
1. use a towel between fan and radiator when removing fan/shroud together; keep track of shroud bolts as length is critical; lock shroud nuts in their retaining slots with zip ties; cut fan shroud in half below bolt "ears" and throw away the bottom half - makes future access much easier with no loose of cooling capacity.
2. ignore discussion of removal of the water pump as it's not worth the effort. Just unbolt front half and replace with new front half and "O" ring which "fixes" all the moving parts.

To do rockers involves pulling the valve/cam cover there is a write-up at viewtopic.php?f=98&t=75479 but the images are gone. If you want a copy with images shoot me an email.

ralphtonka · **Joined:** Sun Feb 07, 2016 1:17 am **Posts:** 22

papaindigo wrote:

There is a pretty good write-up with pictures at http://www.beesvillebeefarm.com/jeep.html .

Two comments though:
1. use a towel between fan and radiator when removing fan/shroud together; keep track of shroud bolts as length is critical; lock shroud nuts in their retaining slots with zip ties; cut fan shroud in half below bolt "ears" and throw away the bottom half - makes future access much easier with no loose of cooling capacity.
2. ignore discussion of removal of the water pump as it's not worth the effort. Just unbolt front half and replace with new front half and "O" ring which "fixes" all the moving parts.

To do rockers involves pulling the valve/cam cover there is a write-up at viewtopic.php?f=98&t=75479 but the images are gone. If you want a copy with images shoot me an email.

Thanks for the leads and the emailed document with pics, ordered everything including rockers through IDparts except the fan hub assembly, the bearing has a little wear but i'll finish this part first. Then the plan is 3 6203 bearings back to back, spin a new shaft up on the lathe and repair the fan hub for under $20....ok $30 including beer!

Thanks for all the support

Darren

ralphtonka · **Joined:** Sun Feb 07, 2016 1:17 am **Posts:** 22

In anticipation of parts, I started to remove parts and take pics. I was born in the seventies and have stuck my hands in plenty of dark greasy places, what kind of witchcraft holds the egr tube to the intake tube? It feels like a clamp collar... But finding a tool to fit is more mysterious than the female ......
I have battery, fuel filter, alternator, shroud, Fan, timing cover, coolant jug, inter cooler hoses, air filter box, etc removed and rad is protected and drained.

ebbnflow · **Posted:** Fri Feb 12, 2016 2:23 am

http://www.idparts.com/egr-tube-clamp-l ... -3263.html

I think it's 8mm

olypopper · **Posted:** Fri Feb 12, 2016 11:44 am

I recently did a lot of work to my CRD and I highly recommend pulling the CAC, radiator and grill out when doing this service. It adds about 45 minutes of disassembly/reassembly but it makes tons of room and accidental holes in the radiator don't happen. Just my .02

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Fri Feb 12, 2016 1:08 pm

Yes, it is a tube clamp; a common clamp used a bunch on vehicles in Europe.
And if you pull the CAC be sure and wash it out good to get all the oil residue out of it... :wink:

virgin crd owner, jeep is not wearing white

Who is online