The dealership I want to buy a CRD from insists that the 2006 model that I am interested in has a timing chain. I had to walk away tonight on principle because I did not have a good feeling in my gut that it was a chain. From all the hundreds of posts I have read, I am convinced that they are blowing smoke. Is there maybe an easy way to check? They even looked in the service manual and it lists a belt and a chain for that motor model.
Any help would be appreciated.

A couple folks here have had many, many of these engines taken apart.
Not a chain to be found anywhere.

Ask for maintenance records. If there is no record of timing belt replacement, assume its never been done.
Timing belt should be changed every 100,000 miles.

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U.S. Army Retired

You can download a manual yourself here:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=24600

You'll see that there are no timing chains.

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2005 Liberty CRD Limited
DIY Garage Remanufactured Engine with GDE Full Torque Eco Tune from mile zero.
ARP Studs
Cummins Lift Pump
Transgo HD2 Reprogramming Kit
DIY Rebuilt Tranny Pump
Suncoast Torque Converter
2nd Generation Fuel Head
Sears P1 Battery
Hot Diesel Solutions Thermostat

Did all that smoke they were blowing feel good? That was their hope, anyway...

Not a single one of these CRDs from the 2002 model year through the 2009 when they finally stopped making them in this design has a chain. The USA got the same thing that the rest of the world got, just in 05 and 06. All belts.

This is obviously yet another dealership that can't accurately diagnose what day of the week it is, without 6 tries. I wouldn't trust them to tell me that there was air in the tires. Caveat Emptor, always with any dealership. They will say anything they think will make the sale.

Even better, if you were to drive in with the CRD, they'd probably tell you that there was something terribly wrong with it and it needed expert service immediately!
"What could be wrong?"
"Well, can't ya hear that clattering noise? That sounds terrible!"
"It's a diesel."
"IT IS???? How'd ya get it converted?"

This conversation has happened to at least 6 different members (myself included) and one dealership actually serviced a rotating (but not running) CRD right into a frozen block and a full engine replacement. Don't trust them - just buy the vehicle for what it appears to be sitting there.

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Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Only belts. The dealer either doesn't know what he's looking at or is just bulls****ing.

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Light Khaki 2.8CRD: TJM alloy bumper; Skid Row &Asfir skids;ext. breathers; SAMCO hoses; Grabber At3 235/70/16; Fumoto; Euro TC; Odyssey PC1500;GDE FTEcotune; OME lift; lightforce driving lights;ARB diff cover;nylon fan+Hayden2905;ss vortex exhaust; Airflow snorkel; Frontrunner roofrack; rock rails

The only thing the dealer might be misconstruing is that the 2007 and 2008 grand cherokee had a timing chain.

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http://www.Colorado4Wheel.com
"Its not about what you can DO with your Jeep, its about where you can GO with your Jeep."
Knowledgeable - But Caustic

So we got the timing belt sorted out. Believe it or not, the dealer called me this morning and told me they were so sorry they had it wrong and the Libby does indeed have a belt. Now to negotiate the price of its replacement out of the buy price... They seem pretty stiff.

Look up I.D. Parts... better parts for better prices than the Stealerships offer...

http://www.idparts.com

Negotiate a rock-bottom price for the CRD. Do this by telling them that they obviously do not know their own vehicle, and proceed from there to inform them of all of the problems associated with the CRD...

1) ... a REALLY BAD pollution control system that basically destroys the engine over time and robs power/ruins fuel economy while doing so.

2) ... a REALLY BAD engine thermostat assembly that fails on a regular basis, is very expensive to purchase and install, and is designed with pollution control in mind rather than proper regulation of the engine's temperature.

3) ... a manufacturer, (AND a dealership network), that gave up on CRD owners almost from the moment the vehicles were first sold, (transmission torque converter "fix").

When they ask why YOU want a CRD, tell them that ALL of the proper fixes/upgrades for the CRD problems have been available for a while now in the aftermarket, and that once the upgrades are done the CRD is a great vehicle to own, (which is the truth).

Not sure what you mean by " They seem pretty stiff." If by that you mean the belt you can see is stiff please be aware that that's the serpentine belt as the timing belt is hidden behind the black sheet metal cover on the front of the engine.

Things to look at other than the "all" vehicle stuff like battery, brakes, tires, condition of suspension
1. unless you have proof positive of the timing belt being done, such as receipts, it will need to be done regardless of vehicle mileage as the best rule thumb on the belt is 6 years or 100k miles whichever occurs first. If the vehicle is low mileage, like 50K, you can probably skip the water pump. Best source for timing belt kit is idparts.
2. if the CAC hoses have the woven cover on them poke around and see if the outside of the hoses are soggy with oil. If so the need to be replaced, see above for source
3. ideally have them pull the airbox to turbo hose to a) check for tear in hose just in front of turbo and b) so you can check turbo fan for play which should be no more than slight fore/aft and barely perceptible side to side.
4. look at joint between plastic end caps of intercooler and metal "radiator" section to see if it's weeping oil, if so it will need to be replaced.
5. check color of antifreeze. That's not the best indicator but HOAT antifreeze tends to be a light pinkish. Green or red = bad and will require a system flush. PS - best assume all fluids (antifreeze, transmission, differential, transfer case) and associated filters will need doing unless the dealer you are negotiating with is DCJ and has done the service.
6. during test drive does the temp gauge needle get to just barely (half a needle width) left of vertical; if less thermostat needs replacing.

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Sold to LOST member my 05 Ltd, GDE Stg II turbo + TCM tune, SunCoast TC w. Transgo kit, Steiger window regulators, Samcos, Fumoto valve, 2nd gen filter head with Lub. Spec. bleeder, Hayden clutch & 11 blade fan, inverted spare, P-1 battery, BF Goodrich Long Trail TAs, Etecno1 glow plugs, timing belt at 50K miles/8 yrs

This is a very good list

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05 CRD Sport - GDE EcoTune - Samcos - EGR Delete & Elbow kit - ARP Studs - Airtex E7181M

Stiff was in reference to the sales teams attitude. I have been back and forth with them for over one month now and the lowest I have been able to get is 7500.

Go in with cash and lay it on the table. Cash talks.

Good idea... and be prepared to walk out the door if they do not give you a good price.

Don't trust THAT dealer to do the timing belt job.

THIS. They will get to a price, then suddenly there will be $1500 in extra bullshiit like "dealer fees" (pure profit) "dealer prep" (a sucky no-soap car wash and a wipe down with four drops of armor-all) and "title or document prep fees" (the title is done by the state, so this again is pure profit) And you need to fight against each of these.

Just like the "undercoating" BS from years ago. Nothing ever changes, stealerships earn that name and poor reputation.

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

_________________
Proud supporting vendor of LOST Jeeps
TRAVELING CRD TECH. I come to you!
Need help? Just ask! I've taken it apart more than most.
Email jeep [at] maincomputer [dot] com - BOARD MESSAGING IS BROKEN
Over 225 CRDs currently driving with my valves, timing belt, rockers, or ARP Studs.
Bad noises = REALLY bad things.

Like I said, be prepared to walk out the door... I am talking about a bottom line price here. I do not accept dealership "fees" and neither should anyone else.

I don't pay a "check out fee" when I shop at the grocery store. I do not understand why auto sales think they are entitled to a "document preparation" fee above the agreed purchase price..
I've walked out on a few.

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2005 KJ CRD 120K
GDE ECO-Tune
still deciding what else I want to do