steel front diff

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Mon Apr 05, 2010 4:47 pm

JL Rockies wrote:

I need to bust out the Rosetta Stone.

Diggerfreek · **Posted:** Mon Apr 05, 2010 5:26 pm

JL Rockies wrote:

I need to bust out the Rosetta Stone.

Neatus · **Posted:** Mon Apr 05, 2010 5:54 pm

evil libby wrote:

so we still need to use the old gear set and cv but buy a new install kit and gear if we wold like to rear gear it and then also to the rear that sounds like a lot more then a SFA if you were to do both ends I think the links and coil overs are the big price tag I think I am going to do the SFA I thinking I can do most of the work my self and be around 1500-2000 bucks and a litle time it is not rocket science

I really think swapng this in, even if you regear front and rear you will save a ton of cash of SFA swap. Not saying it will be better but would be way cheaper and easier.

2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Mon Apr 05, 2010 7:35 pm

Neatus wrote:

evil libby wrote:

so we still need to use the old gear set and cv but buy a new install kit and gear if we wold like to rear gear it and then also to the rear that sounds like a lot more then a SFA if you were to do both ends I think the links and coil overs are the big price tag I think I am going to do the SFA I thinking I can do most of the work my self and be around 1500-2000 bucks and a litle time it is not rocket science

I really think swapng this in, even if you regear front and rear you will save a ton of cash of SFA swap. Not saying it will be better but would be way cheaper and easier.

And thats why I'm going this route at the moment. I will be doing a SFA conversion when the CRD gets payed off and can drop full coverage on it and neither has any say in what I do to it......LOL!!! In the meantime, this will suffice just fine and when I do get the SFA, the whole JBA steel diff with gears and DTT will be sold to help with the costs when it comes time.

Neatus · **Posted:** Mon Apr 05, 2010 11:37 pm

Do it up, I think this is sweet.

Tokyojoe · **Posted:** Tue Apr 06, 2010 2:07 am

JL Rockies wrote:

I need to bust out the Rosetta Stone.

+1

evil libby · **Joined:** Thu Nov 13, 2008 11:41 am **Posts:** 296

thanks neatus I was in the car late at night on my way home has any one thought of useing coils like the xj or the grands do in the front I now there is some done but how do they flex ?

Neatus · **Posted:** Wed Apr 07, 2010 11:08 am

evil libby wrote:

thanks neatus I was in the car late at night on my way home has any one thought of useing coils like the xj or the grands do in the front I now there is some done but how do they flex ?

If you are talking for an SFA then check out TJKJ's Gila Monster KJ...I believe he is using coils for a GC but he is also using full width axles which I think barely gives him a enough room to use them. I am sure they flex like Stretch Armstrong.

Anyway...hows that steel dif comming? Lets see it already!

2mopar_diesels · **Posted:** Wed Apr 07, 2010 8:15 pm

Neatus wrote:

Anyway...hows that steel dif comming? Lets see it already!

Marlin just send me shipping confirmation on my diff. He has exactly 2 right now that are going out to beta testers. Mine for the CRD, and another to a local friend of his. I won't be able to install mine until the 24th at the earliest, as I'm away from home at work till then. But, he did send pics of the completed housing I will be getting in a few days!!! Its the same one posted on his website, but here you go anyways.

Neatus · **Posted:** Thu Apr 08, 2010 12:50 am

Wow, this is very cool!

evil libby · **Joined:** Thu Nov 13, 2008 11:41 am **Posts:** 296

I think this is a trick pice but I am think the price is more than I would like to pay

frank6772 · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 7:35 pm

evil libby wrote:

I think this is a trick pice but I am think the price is more than I would like to pay

Its pricy yes BUT, if you look at a comarable solid axle housing (new) your looking at the right price point for the housing. It will be a lot more for a complete axle, most likely in the $2500-$4000 range.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:33 pm

evil libby wrote:

I think this is a trick pice but I am think the price is more than I would like to pay

its' more than I'd like to pay - True.
it's right in line with the Mopar price for stock - and that'll break a lot easier.

It's way, way cheaper than SFA - and it will work for what I want.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 10:50 pm

ATXKJ wrote:

evil libby wrote:

I think this is a trick pice but I am think the price is more than I would like to pay

its' more than I'd like to pay - True.
it's right in line with the Mopar price for stock - and that'll break a lot easier.

It's way, way cheaper than SFA - and it will work for what I want.

I agree with ATXKJ, plus I could regear and install the ARB locker before I have to swap out the differentials. I still want to see this thing work, so far I'm 50% sold on the idea. Maybe I'll get more motivated once I see how well it works.

VoodooMann · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 11:18 pm

With the steel D30 you could regear WAY lower than the D30a, and It is considerably cheaper than SFA.

less time consuming too,

When my Diff Grenades this is probably what I'll do too.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 11:26 pm

Just remember that a LP D30 is just about as weak as the D30A,add those 33" tires and instead of busting the case,as with the D30A,you will now just bust the ring gear which is a very common issue with LP D30's with 33"+ tires and wheeling.

Now if Marlin used a HP30 case it would be a different story,then just kiss your CV joints goodbye.

VoodooMann · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 11:45 pm

Really?

I thought the LP D30 would be good enough to handle 33" tires.

especially since none of my trucks have ever seen rocks, I only hit mud pits and trails.

DoverKJ · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 11:50 pm

Very rarely have I have seen a D30 break with 33's. Not saying it doesnt happen, just I have never seen it. Our 02 TJ has a D30, stock gears and 33's. I have had all 4 wheels smoking on an extremely difficult obstacle and haven't broken anything (yet). However, take that same D30 and add 35's and be prepared. The last wheeling trip I was on,and leading in the KJ, a 97 TJ with stock D30 and 35's snapped a ujoint and destroyed his front brakes (two separate incidents over the weekend).

I think that the housing would hold up fine to 33's without a problem. My biggest concern would be CV's, tierods or balljoint failing.

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Apr 09, 2010 11:57 pm

I have blown a couple of LP30s before with 33s but were with Mudders and grabbing great and
I admit I had a little heavier foot back then but still wheeled with some common sense and didn't want or try to blow them

VoodooMann · **Posted:** Sat Apr 10, 2010 12:14 am

I guess my friends just get lucky!

haha, my friend used to thrash his TJ with LP D30, only running 33"s

Once again, only in mud pits.

I figure if I do have a catastrophic failure, it will depend on what kind of money I can scrape together. Chances are I won't be trying to stuff 33"s under the KJ like Larry, I'm not that good with a grinder/welder.

If I only have a bit of money I might do this.
If I can get 8-12k together. take a guess.

And then I'll run bigger tires.

steel front diff

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