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Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions
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Author:  tonycrd [ Wed Jun 10, 2009 11:07 am ]
Post subject:  Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions

If you have any additional info on a Liberty lift that is not already in this thread, please post that so that it can be added. Anything deemed not essential to this topic will be removed in order to maintain the ease of searching.

Liberty Lift FAQ

Since the same questions with the same answers keep coming back I thought it might be handy if we’ve had a little FAQ on lifting the KJ instead of typing our fingers blue every time.

Let’s start with some commonly used abbreviations you see in most of the posts:

IFS: independent front suspension
UCA: upper control arm
LCA: lower control arm
UBJ: upper ball joint
LBJ: lower ball joint
CV’s: constant velocity joints
SFA: solid front axle
OTT: over the top / so on top of the strut / spacer lift

CRD: common rail diesel / the KJ diesel
OME: old man emu
JBA: jeepin by al
ALL J: All J products
RLF: rock lizard fabrications

What is the best lift for my Libby? ( no matter if it’s 4 or 2 wheel drive )

The Liberty is built on a unibody structure, not a body on frame like other jeeps. Because of this, body lifts are not possible.

GASOLINE:

Jeepinbyal

Frankenlift

OME /Rancho lift

Daystar 2.5” spacer lift

CRD:

CRD Frankenlift

OME lift

CRDSTU lift


What are they?

Jeepinbyal: 2,5”- 4” or 6” lift needed? Skyjacker shocks / JBA springs http://www.jeepinbyal.com

Frankenlift: OME heavy duty coils, rancho or ome shocks, added spacer and top plate for even more lift. Preassembled front struts. See http://www.boulderbars.com for all the ins and outs.

OME coils+Rancho shocks: just like it says, you get the OME 927 / Rancho RSX 17505 up front and the OME 948/ Rancho RSX 17004 on the rear.

Daystar 2,5¨ lift: A so called spacer lift, meaning you fit spacers under your stock springs.

Image

With this kit you can also use your stock shocks but it is highly recommended you swap the rears for some longer ones like the Rancho’s

Image
------------------Rancho--------OME-----------JEEP--------------------

CRD:

CRD Frankenlift : OME kit with preassembled front struts

OME lift: front OME 927 or 790 coils* - NS131 shocks / OME 948 - N132 or **N132L (+2,5”) / Rancho RSX 17004 shocks for the rear.

*: for the 2.8CRD must use 790 only
**: the N132L can only be bought at ALLJ or RLF.

CRDSTU lift: Australian guy who has custom designed super heavy duty King Springs and even longer OME rear shocks. You can reach him at angstu@bigpond.net.au
Remember: he’s in Australia so shipping can be very pricy.

Aftermarket front shock next to a OEM one.

Image

Can I install any of these myself?

Yes you can. But for some you will have to take the front struts apart.

See this 'how to' for a 2.5" Daystar install made by KJ TAZ:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=26190&start=0

How much lift will I get?

Most common on any of these is 2,5” to 4” lift. Except for the JBA 6”.

What is the difference between a 926 and a 927 OME coil?

Spring Rates:

925 Light Load: 350 lbs
926 Medium Load: 375 lbs
927 Heavy Load / CRD Medium: 400 lbs
790 CRD Heavy Load: 500 lbs

Just for comparison:
Stock/Rustys: 310 lbs

Which OME Springs Should I Fit?

If your vehicle is stock and you simply want a taller stance, fit the medium-rate springs for your particular vehicle in both front and rear. The medium springs will give you a taller stance and will also give your vehicle improved handling on the road. You will also be able to carry medium loads without sagging your springs.
If your vehicle is fitted with a heavy-duty front bumper like the ARB Winch Bar or the TJM Bull Bar, even without a winch, recommended are heavy-duty front springs. The heavy-duties are required to prevent your front end from sagging even if you do not have a winch fitted. If you do have a winch fitted in addition to your heavy-duty front bumper, then it's highly recommended to fit heavy-duty front springs on the ground that the medium-duty front springs will sag.

For the rear, if you are going offroading, you should be carrying all of the necessary recovery equipment required for offroading, spare parts, food, Power Tank, Engel Freezer Fridge, fuel and water containers, spare clothing, etc. All of this equipment weighs a considerable amount. Accordingly, it's generally recommend to fit heavy-duty for the rear.

Do I need bump stops and why?

Image

Yes you need longer bump stops. A common rule of thumb is for every inch of lift an inch of bump stop is needed. You can use the Terraflex (3") or the Daystar’s on the front.

For the rear there are Daystar’s but any DIY will do, hockey pucks and rubber mallets are most commonly used.

Image

Why you need them: If you fit longer springs they can be compressed to far with the stock bump stops so you get spring binding (the metal parts of the coil touching). That’s not good. The spring will start to sag or even break pretty quick.
Image

Image

Image

Image
©Long_Tall_Texan

OME has now stated that for their suspension system you do not need any longer bumpstops. Beware: that works only if you do not mix their stuff with other components!

Can I fit the Daystar 2,5” spacer to a OME lift?

No you cannot. Anything above 4” needs more modifications, see how JBA does it.

Why can’t I fit a gasser frankenlift to a CRD?

Mainly because of engine weight and cv joints will go ‘kaboom’ after a short while.

How do I level after a lift / what if it starts to sag?

For the front you can fit extra top plate spacers these go on top of the strut (Rusty) or the spring (JBA) or do a clevis lift.

Image

On the rear you can add extra isolators (the rubber doughnuts on top of spring=rear isolator part # 52088707AA) You can add a total of 2 to each spring max.

What is a clevis lift?

Image

Jack up your Libby, get a stand under it, take of the wheel, loosen up the clevis bolt. Get a crowbar and gently pry the clevis down. You can do a safe 3/8 - 10mm lift. Re-torque the bolt. Done.

AFTERMARKET SHOCKS ONLY: If you want to make sure they don't sag back you can fit some conduit nuts under the strut.

What are conduit nuts?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=75927-15527-47106&lpage=none

2 Pack 2" Rigid Conduit Locknut

Item #: 75927 Model: 47106

Steel

$1.38 for a two pack

Image

Do I need an alignment after fitting the lift?

Yes you do. And a headlight adjustment.

Can I expect any problems getting alignment back to specs?

Not on a 2,5"/4" lift of this list. Maybe with other brands.

What are JBA uca's?

Image

JBA uca's are aftermarket uca's that give the ubj a better angle when lifted thus also bringing alignment back into specs. They also prevent UBJ / strut contact. The ubj is greasable and much stronger then the mopar one.

Do I need JBA uca's?

That depends on the height of the lift and if you have UBJ to spring contact. On most lifts you don't but it's a great upgrade.

What tire size can I fit with brand/height X lift?

A 245/75/16 will fit under a 2,5" lift with very little to no rubbing.
For more info on tire sizes please look here.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=958

Any brake hose issues?

Yes on the '06/'07's you need to lengthen the rear brake hose bracket.

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=45640

Sway Bars

Sway bars are on the front and rear of the KJ and they keep the vehicle from experiencing body roll in turns and off camber situations. The front should not be removed unless only temporarily while off roading. It is debatable whether disconnecting the front sway bar on an IFS vehicle is an advantage off road. The rear sway bar, however can be taken of if you desire more rear articulation. Almost all people that have taken the rear sway bar off feel that it provides better rear articulation while at the same time not affecting, in any noticeable way, body roll or additional vehicle movement in turns.

What's the "rub" on Fenders?

Depending on what tire size you choose along with what lift you choose, fender trimming may be required. The pinch weld is the most common ender adjustment needed to fit larger tires after a lift. The pinch weld is in the front wheel well and is a piece of plastic about 6" long and 1" wide that covers a piece of metal that needs to be move so you can run bigger tires. You will need to cut back the plastic, not off, and expose the metal. Take a large hammer and smash it flat to one side. Use a heat gun to melt the plastic piece back in place and you are done. Some people just cut the plastic covering off and call it done that way. From there, it depends a great deal on an individual basis to cover what you may or may not need to trim on your bumper or wheel well.

Author:  tonycrd [ Fri Mar 11, 2011 11:54 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions

All the info on OME springs and shocks.

http://store.geo4wdparts.com/uploads/PD ... ul2010.pdf

Author:  changingtime [ Thu Jul 07, 2011 11:02 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions

Is there a way to give the front end a lift (like the renegade), so there is more ground clearance? leaving the back as is?

Author:  deejayMB [ Sun Mar 31, 2013 7:32 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions

tonycrd wrote:
All the info on OME springs and shocks.

http://store.geo4wdparts.com/uploads/PD ... ul2010.pdf


this is a broken link, I think

Author:  jkitsakj [ Fri Oct 04, 2013 8:59 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions

I am going to be installing a Rusty's 2.5 coil lift and was wondering should I replace upper and lower control arms. If so, what is the best "bang for your buck" brand to get

Author:  tommudd [ Fri Oct 04, 2013 9:03 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions

jkitsakj wrote:
I am going to be installing a Rusty's 2.5 coil lift and was wondering should I replace upper and lower control arms. If so, what is the best "bang for your buck" brand to get


First send the Rustys lift back
second get a lift that will last more than a few miles
Rustys are known to sag since the spring rate is the same as stock, plus their rear shocks are garbage
years of experience have shown us what works what doesn't on here
If you go over 3 inches you should start looking at installing aftemarket upper control arms
there is only one place that has ones that fit, will work with you if you have any issues at all and are built right and thats jeepinbyal.
They are the best bang for your buck.
There are cheaper but not good

Author:  jkitsakj [ Fri Oct 04, 2013 9:24 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions

I am looking at a budget of about $500-$600 on a lift. Which lift is best for the price range?

Author:  tommudd [ Fri Oct 04, 2013 9:28 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions

jkitsakj wrote:
I am looking at a budget of about $500-$600 on a lift. Which lift is best for the price range?


Save up a bit more and get a Ironman lift
much better ride/handling, last longer
check jeepinbyal site but around 750.

Author:  Army Ranger [ Tue Oct 22, 2013 12:15 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions

Excellent thread, lots of my questions are answered but...
It would be a little more helpful to include how much lift is achieved by doing the clevis lift, top plate, rear isolator, etc.

For example:
1/2in clevis lift equals approximately X inches of overall front lift.
2 rear isolators nets approximately X inches of overall rear lift.

Just fill in the Xs of course!

Author:  tjkj2002 [ Tue Oct 22, 2013 1:27 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions

Army Ranger wrote:
Excellent thread, lots of my questions are answered but...
It would be a little more helpful to include how much lift is achieved by doing the clevis lift, top plate, rear isolator, etc.

For example:
1/2in clevis lift equals approximately X inches of overall front lift.
2 rear isolators nets approximately X inches of overall rear lift.

Just fill in the Xs of course!

Simple math.................

Each rear isolator is 1/2" tall,how much lift do you think they each give? (clue 1/2" + 1/2" ='s ?)

The front IFS is a 2:1 ratio so how much do you think a 1/2" clevis lift gives? (clue 1/2" x 2 ='s ?)

Author:  WWDiesel [ Wed Nov 27, 2013 11:17 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions

Installed the Ironman springs front & rear today with the new Bilstein shocks. :-)r
Got a little better than 2" lift over the stock springs.
This is what they looked like:
[url=https://postimage.ccImage[/url]

Image

Image

Author:  Anchorism [ Mon Dec 09, 2013 8:51 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions

WWDiesel wrote:
Installed the Ironman springs front & rear today with the new Bilstein shocks. :-)r
Got a little better than 2" lift over the stock springs.
This is what they looked like:
Image
Image
Image



Just out of curiosity, how much did this setup run you? Its what ive been looking at....

Author:  hellas [ Sun Jan 05, 2014 6:06 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions

Excellent thread :) Answered most of my questions. If I am planning on doing a 2.5 inch lift kit would I need to do any modifications to the car? (Brake / Fuel Lines and so on?)

Author:  palmettostomper [ Mon Mar 03, 2014 3:08 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions

hellas wrote:
Excellent thread :) Answered most of my questions. If I am planning on doing a 2.5 inch lift kit would I need to do any modifications to the car? (Brake / Fuel Lines and so on?)

with a 2.5, no mods needed. you'll find that down the road you'll need better upper ball joints. stock joints are none replaceable without buying the complete arm assembly..jba has upper control arms that are a bit longer and better angle, and the joint is replaceable ..

Author:  palmettostomper [ Tue Mar 04, 2014 7:19 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions

jkitsakj wrote:
I am looking at a budget of about $500-$600 on a lift. Which lift is best for the price range?

For $ 450.00-500.00 you can get a daystar 2.5 lift..thats in your range. Thats installed out the door. You get less flex/travel out of your suspension , and if you have old warn springs they will sag or wear out quicker. But for that price, you can drop some 255/70/16 s on it and ride out...

Author:  Gyro [ Wed Mar 05, 2014 9:20 am ]
Post subject:  Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions

hellas wrote:
Excellent thread :) Answered most of my questions. If I am planning on doing a 2.5 inch lift kit would I need to do any modifications to the car? (Brake / Fuel Lines and so on?)


There is one mod you may/may not need to do.
05 1/2,06, 07 years need this mod viewtopic.php?f=3&t=45640&p=589570#p589570
02-04 years do not.

Gyro

Author:  RLDStover [ Sun Jun 22, 2014 4:23 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions

Hello , Does this post lift work for the 2012 Liberty's

Thanks

Author:  lfhoward [ Sun Jun 22, 2014 6:46 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions

RLDStover wrote:
Hello , Does this post lift work for the 2012 Liberty's

Thanks

Most of it also applies to the '08-'12 Liberties. See this thread for a KK-specific lift FAQ:
viewtopic.php?f=88&t=79401

Author:  CGman [ Sun Sep 07, 2014 4:40 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions

Has anyone with a 2.5" lift used the Bilstein 5100 series shock/struts?

I think that's what JBA uses, but he doesn't share part numbers. :(

Author:  LumberJaq [ Fri Apr 10, 2015 4:48 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions

Is there a combination of spacers for the rear end that will net me and extra half inch over stock without having to stack OEM spacers?

I have seen where people have added an extra OEM spacer but I do not think that is a safe way of going about this. Am I wrong? My concern is that the spacers will come out of alignment or even break because they were never intended to be stacked.

Edit: I believe I asked this in the wrong thread. Could a Moderator please move it to the official lift thread?

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