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| Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=44037 |
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| Author: | tonycrd [ Wed Jun 10, 2009 11:07 am ] |
| Post subject: | Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions |
If you have any additional info on a Liberty lift that is not already in this thread, please post that so that it can be added. Anything deemed not essential to this topic will be removed in order to maintain the ease of searching. Liberty Lift FAQ Since the same questions with the same answers keep coming back I thought it might be handy if we’ve had a little FAQ on lifting the KJ instead of typing our fingers blue every time. Let’s start with some commonly used abbreviations you see in most of the posts: IFS: independent front suspension UCA: upper control arm LCA: lower control arm UBJ: upper ball joint LBJ: lower ball joint CV’s: constant velocity joints SFA: solid front axle OTT: over the top / so on top of the strut / spacer lift CRD: common rail diesel / the KJ diesel OME: old man emu JBA: jeepin by al ALL J: All J products RLF: rock lizard fabrications What is the best lift for my Libby? ( no matter if it’s 4 or 2 wheel drive ) The Liberty is built on a unibody structure, not a body on frame like other jeeps. Because of this, body lifts are not possible. GASOLINE: Jeepinbyal Frankenlift OME /Rancho lift Daystar 2.5” spacer lift CRD: CRD Frankenlift OME lift CRDSTU lift What are they? Jeepinbyal: 2,5”- 4” or 6” lift needed? Skyjacker shocks / JBA springs http://www.jeepinbyal.com Frankenlift: OME heavy duty coils, rancho or ome shocks, added spacer and top plate for even more lift. Preassembled front struts. See http://www.boulderbars.com for all the ins and outs. OME coils+Rancho shocks: just like it says, you get the OME 927 / Rancho RSX 17505 up front and the OME 948/ Rancho RSX 17004 on the rear. Daystar 2,5¨ lift: A so called spacer lift, meaning you fit spacers under your stock springs. ![]() With this kit you can also use your stock shocks but it is highly recommended you swap the rears for some longer ones like the Rancho’s ![]() ------------------Rancho--------OME-----------JEEP-------------------- CRD: CRD Frankenlift : OME kit with preassembled front struts OME lift: front OME 927 or 790 coils* - NS131 shocks / OME 948 - N132 or **N132L (+2,5”) / Rancho RSX 17004 shocks for the rear. *: for the 2.8CRD must use 790 only **: the N132L can only be bought at ALLJ or RLF. CRDSTU lift: Australian guy who has custom designed super heavy duty King Springs and even longer OME rear shocks. You can reach him at angstu@bigpond.net.au Remember: he’s in Australia so shipping can be very pricy. Aftermarket front shock next to a OEM one. ![]() Can I install any of these myself? Yes you can. But for some you will have to take the front struts apart. See this 'how to' for a 2.5" Daystar install made by KJ TAZ: http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=26190&start=0 How much lift will I get? Most common on any of these is 2,5” to 4” lift. Except for the JBA 6”. What is the difference between a 926 and a 927 OME coil? Spring Rates: 925 Light Load: 350 lbs 926 Medium Load: 375 lbs 927 Heavy Load / CRD Medium: 400 lbs 790 CRD Heavy Load: 500 lbs Just for comparison: Stock/Rustys: 310 lbs Which OME Springs Should I Fit? If your vehicle is stock and you simply want a taller stance, fit the medium-rate springs for your particular vehicle in both front and rear. The medium springs will give you a taller stance and will also give your vehicle improved handling on the road. You will also be able to carry medium loads without sagging your springs. If your vehicle is fitted with a heavy-duty front bumper like the ARB Winch Bar or the TJM Bull Bar, even without a winch, recommended are heavy-duty front springs. The heavy-duties are required to prevent your front end from sagging even if you do not have a winch fitted. If you do have a winch fitted in addition to your heavy-duty front bumper, then it's highly recommended to fit heavy-duty front springs on the ground that the medium-duty front springs will sag. For the rear, if you are going offroading, you should be carrying all of the necessary recovery equipment required for offroading, spare parts, food, Power Tank, Engel Freezer Fridge, fuel and water containers, spare clothing, etc. All of this equipment weighs a considerable amount. Accordingly, it's generally recommend to fit heavy-duty for the rear. Do I need bump stops and why? ![]() Yes you need longer bump stops. A common rule of thumb is for every inch of lift an inch of bump stop is needed. You can use the Terraflex (3") or the Daystar’s on the front. For the rear there are Daystar’s but any DIY will do, hockey pucks and rubber mallets are most commonly used. ![]() Why you need them: If you fit longer springs they can be compressed to far with the stock bump stops so you get spring binding (the metal parts of the coil touching). That’s not good. The spring will start to sag or even break pretty quick. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ©Long_Tall_Texan OME has now stated that for their suspension system you do not need any longer bumpstops. Beware: that works only if you do not mix their stuff with other components! Can I fit the Daystar 2,5” spacer to a OME lift? No you cannot. Anything above 4” needs more modifications, see how JBA does it. Why can’t I fit a gasser frankenlift to a CRD? Mainly because of engine weight and cv joints will go ‘kaboom’ after a short while. How do I level after a lift / what if it starts to sag? For the front you can fit extra top plate spacers these go on top of the strut (Rusty) or the spring (JBA) or do a clevis lift. ![]() On the rear you can add extra isolators (the rubber doughnuts on top of spring=rear isolator part # 52088707AA) You can add a total of 2 to each spring max. What is a clevis lift? ![]() Jack up your Libby, get a stand under it, take of the wheel, loosen up the clevis bolt. Get a crowbar and gently pry the clevis down. You can do a safe 3/8 - 10mm lift. Re-torque the bolt. Done. AFTERMARKET SHOCKS ONLY: If you want to make sure they don't sag back you can fit some conduit nuts under the strut. What are conduit nuts? http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=75927-15527-47106&lpage=none 2 Pack 2" Rigid Conduit Locknut Item #: 75927 Model: 47106 Steel $1.38 for a two pack ![]() Do I need an alignment after fitting the lift? Yes you do. And a headlight adjustment. Can I expect any problems getting alignment back to specs? Not on a 2,5"/4" lift of this list. Maybe with other brands. What are JBA uca's? JBA uca's are aftermarket uca's that give the ubj a better angle when lifted thus also bringing alignment back into specs. They also prevent UBJ / strut contact. The ubj is greasable and much stronger then the mopar one. Do I need JBA uca's? That depends on the height of the lift and if you have UBJ to spring contact. On most lifts you don't but it's a great upgrade. What tire size can I fit with brand/height X lift? A 245/75/16 will fit under a 2,5" lift with very little to no rubbing. For more info on tire sizes please look here. http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=958 Any brake hose issues? Yes on the '06/'07's you need to lengthen the rear brake hose bracket. http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=45640 Sway Bars Sway bars are on the front and rear of the KJ and they keep the vehicle from experiencing body roll in turns and off camber situations. The front should not be removed unless only temporarily while off roading. It is debatable whether disconnecting the front sway bar on an IFS vehicle is an advantage off road. The rear sway bar, however can be taken of if you desire more rear articulation. Almost all people that have taken the rear sway bar off feel that it provides better rear articulation while at the same time not affecting, in any noticeable way, body roll or additional vehicle movement in turns. What's the "rub" on Fenders? Depending on what tire size you choose along with what lift you choose, fender trimming may be required. The pinch weld is the most common ender adjustment needed to fit larger tires after a lift. The pinch weld is in the front wheel well and is a piece of plastic about 6" long and 1" wide that covers a piece of metal that needs to be move so you can run bigger tires. You will need to cut back the plastic, not off, and expose the metal. Take a large hammer and smash it flat to one side. Use a heat gun to melt the plastic piece back in place and you are done. Some people just cut the plastic covering off and call it done that way. From there, it depends a great deal on an individual basis to cover what you may or may not need to trim on your bumper or wheel well. |
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| Author: | tonycrd [ Fri Mar 11, 2011 11:54 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions |
All the info on OME springs and shocks. http://store.geo4wdparts.com/uploads/PD ... ul2010.pdf |
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| Author: | changingtime [ Thu Jul 07, 2011 11:02 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions |
Is there a way to give the front end a lift (like the renegade), so there is more ground clearance? leaving the back as is? |
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| Author: | deejayMB [ Sun Mar 31, 2013 7:32 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions |
tonycrd wrote: this is a broken link, I think |
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| Author: | jkitsakj [ Fri Oct 04, 2013 8:59 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions |
I am going to be installing a Rusty's 2.5 coil lift and was wondering should I replace upper and lower control arms. If so, what is the best "bang for your buck" brand to get |
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| Author: | tommudd [ Fri Oct 04, 2013 9:03 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions |
jkitsakj wrote: I am going to be installing a Rusty's 2.5 coil lift and was wondering should I replace upper and lower control arms. If so, what is the best "bang for your buck" brand to get First send the Rustys lift back second get a lift that will last more than a few miles Rustys are known to sag since the spring rate is the same as stock, plus their rear shocks are garbage years of experience have shown us what works what doesn't on here If you go over 3 inches you should start looking at installing aftemarket upper control arms there is only one place that has ones that fit, will work with you if you have any issues at all and are built right and thats jeepinbyal. They are the best bang for your buck. There are cheaper but not good |
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| Author: | jkitsakj [ Fri Oct 04, 2013 9:24 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions |
I am looking at a budget of about $500-$600 on a lift. Which lift is best for the price range? |
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| Author: | tommudd [ Fri Oct 04, 2013 9:28 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions |
jkitsakj wrote: I am looking at a budget of about $500-$600 on a lift. Which lift is best for the price range? Save up a bit more and get a Ironman lift much better ride/handling, last longer check jeepinbyal site but around 750. |
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| Author: | Army Ranger [ Tue Oct 22, 2013 12:15 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions |
Excellent thread, lots of my questions are answered but... It would be a little more helpful to include how much lift is achieved by doing the clevis lift, top plate, rear isolator, etc. For example: 1/2in clevis lift equals approximately X inches of overall front lift. 2 rear isolators nets approximately X inches of overall rear lift. Just fill in the Xs of course! |
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| Author: | tjkj2002 [ Tue Oct 22, 2013 1:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions |
Army Ranger wrote: Excellent thread, lots of my questions are answered but... It would be a little more helpful to include how much lift is achieved by doing the clevis lift, top plate, rear isolator, etc. For example: 1/2in clevis lift equals approximately X inches of overall front lift. 2 rear isolators nets approximately X inches of overall rear lift. Just fill in the Xs of course! Simple math................. Each rear isolator is 1/2" tall,how much lift do you think they each give? (clue 1/2" + 1/2" ='s ?) The front IFS is a 2:1 ratio so how much do you think a 1/2" clevis lift gives? (clue 1/2" x 2 ='s ?) |
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| Author: | Anchorism [ Mon Dec 09, 2013 8:51 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions |
WWDiesel wrote: Installed the Ironman springs front & rear today with the new Bilstein shocks. Got a little better than 2" lift over the stock springs. This is what they looked like: ![]() ![]() ![]() Just out of curiosity, how much did this setup run you? Its what ive been looking at.... |
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| Author: | hellas [ Sun Jan 05, 2014 6:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions |
Excellent thread |
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| Author: | palmettostomper [ Mon Mar 03, 2014 3:08 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions |
hellas wrote: Excellent thread with a 2.5, no mods needed. you'll find that down the road you'll need better upper ball joints. stock joints are none replaceable without buying the complete arm assembly..jba has upper control arms that are a bit longer and better angle, and the joint is replaceable .. |
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| Author: | palmettostomper [ Tue Mar 04, 2014 7:19 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions |
jkitsakj wrote: I am looking at a budget of about $500-$600 on a lift. Which lift is best for the price range? For $ 450.00-500.00 you can get a daystar 2.5 lift..thats in your range. Thats installed out the door. You get less flex/travel out of your suspension , and if you have old warn springs they will sag or wear out quicker. But for that price, you can drop some 255/70/16 s on it and ride out... |
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| Author: | Gyro [ Wed Mar 05, 2014 9:20 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions |
hellas wrote: Excellent thread There is one mod you may/may not need to do. 05 1/2,06, 07 years need this mod viewtopic.php?f=3&t=45640&p=589570#p589570 02-04 years do not. Gyro |
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| Author: | RLDStover [ Sun Jun 22, 2014 4:23 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions |
Hello , Does this post lift work for the 2012 Liberty's Thanks |
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| Author: | lfhoward [ Sun Jun 22, 2014 6:46 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions |
RLDStover wrote: Hello , Does this post lift work for the 2012 Liberty's Thanks Most of it also applies to the '08-'12 Liberties. See this thread for a KK-specific lift FAQ: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=79401 |
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| Author: | CGman [ Sun Sep 07, 2014 4:40 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions |
Has anyone with a 2.5" lift used the Bilstein 5100 series shock/struts? I think that's what JBA uses, but he doesn't share part numbers. |
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| Author: | LumberJaq [ Fri Apr 10, 2015 4:48 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Liberty Lift FAQ / please read before asking questions |
Is there a combination of spacers for the rear end that will net me and extra half inch over stock without having to stack OEM spacers? I have seen where people have added an extra OEM spacer but I do not think that is a safe way of going about this. Am I wrong? My concern is that the spacers will come out of alignment or even break because they were never intended to be stacked. Edit: I believe I asked this in the wrong thread. Could a Moderator please move it to the official lift thread? |
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