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I can't gauge everyone's expertise in 12V wiring, for someone like me with a blackbelt in the 12V arts, it's easy. To do this project, you'll need the following tools:
wire connector crimper (wire nuts are not acceptable)
a digital volt meter or low current test light (the kind that plug into lighter)
a couple "scotch locks" (red)
assorted butt connectors (red, yellow, blue)
16ga or 18ga wire long enough to make 2 runs front to back of the KJ twin lead (speaker wire) is perfect for 1 run
you only need to runs for the enthusiast option
two (SPDT 30 amp relays) or more for the enthusiast option
spade terminals that fit onto the relay terminals (unless you found relays with sockets)
3 ft or so of 10ga wire (or whatever matches ignition wire gauge)
toggle switch (not needed for enthusiast option)
ring terminal for ground
electrical tape
wire ties
wire cutter/stripper
There are different locations wires can be found, I am listing these locations because they are the "easiest".
Pull your driver's side tail light and with your meter identify the wires that go to 12V when put into reverse and the one that goes to 12V when the brakes are applied. **NOTE** you don't need brake wire unless you're going with enthusiast option. Use your scotchlocks to connect your twin lead to these wires (separately not shorted together). Run your wires you just connected up to the DS footwell and drop the under dash (the part you knees stare at all day)
Go to the steering column and locate the ingnition harness. It will be the one that starts where you put your key. There will be several wires there but you're looking for true ignition which is most likely red w/ dk blue stripe. **NOTE** THIS WIRE CAN BE DIFFERENT IN YOUR RIDE!!! VERIFY WITH YOUR METER!!! The way you can identify true ignition is it's the wire that goes to 12V when you turn the key to the "on" position and stays energized through the start cycle. Accessory will drop during the start cycle and retun once the KJ is running again. Ignition wire will not show voltage when the key is off. Once you are sure that you got your wire, here's the scary part.... cut it. **NOTE** you need to crimp a butt connector on either side of the wire you just cut... make sure that there's enough slack to work with! Once this wire is cut, try to start and the starter should run but no engine start.
Take your 3ft 10ga wire and crimp either end to the butt connectors you crimped onto either end of the ignition wire you cut. You should now have a big loop, go ahead and start the KJ to verify your connections are good electically. If there are problems, now is a great time to find them.
Now would be a great time to figure out where you want to put your toggle and mount it **NOTE: not needed for enthusiast option. One terminal needs to be gounded. You have a couple of choices here; you can use a ring terminal and a self-tapping screw to bare metal or remove a factory ground bolt slide your ring terminal onto the stud and retighten or using a Scotchlock to connect to the lighter ground wire. The other wire on the switch gets routed to the gathering of other wires you have.
Grab you electrical tape, lay your loop flat against the rest of the harness and start wrapping. Yoy want to cover-up the connections you've made so it looks as "normal" as possible. Looks are everything in security. You can stop once the area you were working is neat and covered.
Now you'll need your relay because this where the fun begins! First, take your loop and cut it. Connect either side to terminal #87a and the other side to terminal #30 on the relay. It doesn't mater which side goes to which terminal. Connect the reverse wire to terminal #85 on the relay and the toggle switch wire to terminal #86. Make sure that terminal #87 (not used) is well insulated.
Testing:
Turn you toggle switch "on" and then start the KJ **NOTE** please be seated as if you're ready to drive. With your foot on the brake put the KJ in reverse and when you do, the KJ should shut off. Put it back into park and start 'er again. If working properly, everytime you put it into reverse, the KJ should shut off. Turn your toggle switch off, and the KJ should operate normally.
Button up:
Once your wiring has passed the test, wrap-up the wires with electrical tape so they don't draw attention tuck the relay up somewhere hidden and secure with wire ties.
Application:
When the circuit is "on" whenever the reverse lights come on, ignition will be interupted. Even if the vehicle is put into D, the selector still has to go past R which make the light go on momentarily. The KJ will always start when put into park but shut off again when put into gear. This works great if you wan to leave the enging running while you run into the store or warm 'er up in the morning if you don't have a remote start.
How it works:
Inside the relay is a coil and a magnetic switch. The coil is energized when there's +12V AND ground on terminal 85 & 86. Your switch provides the ground and the reverse wire provides the +12V if your switch is off, there's no ground and no action. When the coil is energized, it created a magnetic field which throws the switch.
When the magnetic switch is at rest, terminal 87a and terminal 30 are connected and a completes your ignition wire loop. When the coild gets energized, the mag switch throws and terminal #30 is now connected to terminal #87 which is connected to nothing and breaks the ingnition loop.
Stay tuned for the more complex enthusiast option and possibly a manual option.
PS. Do this at your own risk, it's totally not my fault if you get in over your head m'kay?
_________________ 2006 CRD http://www.UtahPowderCoatings.com/ http://www.gorecon.com/ I'm kind of a big deal.
RL rear bumper, ARB front bumper, Mile Marker winch, Power Tank, Skids by Mopar & Skid Row, RL Super Skink Sliders, 235/85R16 MTR, Air Flow Snorkel, DTT, 4.10 gears, Frankenlift II, Katskin leather, JL Audio stereo, Rosen video.
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