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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 3:42 pm 
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nursecosmo wrote:
mackruss wrote:
Whooaaa steady on there, i can't go to a filling station and pump bio-diesel, i can pump LSD 500 or 50ppm diesel so i'm wanting to know
is bio diesel not vegetable oil and diesel mixed at a ratio of either 20 /50/100?


Here is a very brief description of what Biodiesel is. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/biodiesel


Thanks NC and i hope UFO hasn't blown his brains out with frustration :lol:

What would a mix of methanol and castor oil be classified as. Used to mix this with some nitro methane for my radio controlled planes.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 4:50 pm 
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mackruss wrote:
What would a mix of methanol and castor oil be classified as. Used to mix this with some nitro methane for my radio controlled planes.


The mix that you describe is classified as a Biofuel blend but it is not Biodiesel. Castor oil was originally used in model engine fuel as the lubricant portion of the fuel because of it's unique property among commonly available plant oils as the only one which does not degrade natural rubber. It is also unique in it's high molecular polarity, this gives it the strange ability to completely disperse in water or methanol (or nitro methane in the case of model fuel). Years ago it was investigated as a possible feed stock for biodiesel which would not degrade the old natural rubber seals and hoses of diesel vehicles made prior to the ninetys. It did not pan out however because once it was transesterfied it was just as degrading plus it had a high affinity for water absorption. In its raw state it is a poor fuel because of it's very high Iodine value, this causes rapid gumming and varnishing throughout the fuel system as well as in the combustion chamber.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 4:58 pm 
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I copy you on that, model engines would gum up and our fuel used to absorb water if not used quickly once mixed. I tried a synthetic oil from Castrol instead of the castor oil and found that the engine would run cooler, explains why we need to use a synthetic oil for our CRD's.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 5:26 pm 
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mackruss wrote:
I copy you on that, model engines would gum up and our fuel used to absorb water if not used quickly once mixed. I tried a synthetic oil from Castrol instead of the castor oil and found that the engine would run cooler, explains why we need to use a synthetic oil for our CRD's.


How does that explain synthetic oil?

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 5:49 pm 
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I'm Ok mack. 8)

Synthetic oil is more stable at higher temperatures, like on cylinder walls and turbo bearings. I think that's what you mean.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 7:11 pm 
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a couple of things that I don't think are quite right in this thread..

first sulfur is not a lubricant. the process of removing sulfur from diesel removes the lubrication quality of diesel. just adding sulfur back will increase the lubrication.

some things right
biodiesel is made using either transesterifcation or esterification...one uses a caustic only( trans..) the other used a combination of acid( ester..) and trans.. trust me I know..I make my own.. using both methods

biodiesel provides great lubrication..as little as 2% is all that's needed.

I would suggest against running WVO - unless its heated...the viscosity is too high compared to diesel..this will lead to coking of the injectors..personally I still will not run WVO even heated.

biodiesel is a great solvent..if you've been running diesel for a while expect more filter changes when moving to biodiesel.
if you want to test the solvent properties..make some..then go soak you hand to used motor oil..change the oil in you CRD..then use the BD to clean you hands..don't worry they'll come clean.

-dkenny

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 8:27 pm 
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dkenny wrote:
a couple of things that I don't think are quite right in this thread..

first sulfur is not a lubricant. the process of removing sulfur from diesel removes the lubrication quality of diesel. just adding sulfur back will increase the lubrication.

I would suggest against running WVO - unless its heated...the viscosity is too high compared to diesel..this will lead to coking of the injectors..personally I still will not run WVO even heated.
-dkenny


You are quite right about sulfur by itself not having lubricating properties. The lubrication specific to high sulfur diesel is actually from the Mercaptanised molecule, also known as the Thiol group of an Alkane. It is formed when a Hydrogen molecule is bound to a Sulfur molecule. However if Sulfur is indeed added back to GTL diesel, it would be extremely easy to also Thiolize it thus creating a diesel with an acceptable level of lubricity without adding expensive lubricity enhancers. I never said that Sasol does this, just that it would not be impossible to imagine them doing it, seeing that their main diesel producing plant makes GTL diesel which cannot have sulfur in the gas stream because it poisons the catalysts.

You are mistaken about veg oil raising the viscosity too much. Several university studies have proven that Veg oil added to diesel in quantities up to 5% did not raise the viscosity past ASTM limits for diesel fuel. There was an experiment by some oil companies in Texas in the early nineties when LSD was introduced to elevate the lubricity of their fuel by adding Veg oil. They called it E-Diesel but it never was very popular at the pumps because it caused problems for the filling stations with algae growing in their tanks and it's shorter shelf life.

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PostPosted: Thu Dec 11, 2008 10:10 pm 
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the problem I see with veggie oil is what type of oil. some are better than others
peanut oil gels around 50F
canola is something like 20F

and yes it is my opinion on the veggy oil..i'll stick biodiesel. of course the gel point of the oil also influences the gel point of the biodiesel.

isn't the other problem with sulfur the formation of acidic byproducts?

-dkenny

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 4:36 am 
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UFO wrote:
I'm Ok mack. 8)

Synthetic oil is more stable at higher temperatures, like on cylinder walls and turbo bearings. I think that's what you mean.


Thanks UFO, yes the synthetic oil kept the little engine running cooler and less gum in the little cylinder than when using castor oil.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 1:14 pm 
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mackruss wrote:
UFO wrote:
I'm Ok mack. 8)

Synthetic oil is more stable at higher temperatures, like on cylinder walls and turbo bearings. I think that's what you mean.


Thanks UFO, yes the synthetic oil kept the little engine running cooler and less gum in the little cylinder than when using castor oil.


I was just being curios what that had to do with synthetic being used in the CRD but I think I understand what you were getting at.

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 5:25 pm 
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With regards to additives, does it help to add 2 stroke oil to the diesel like a good synthetic one?

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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2008 7:04 pm 
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mackruss wrote:
With regards to additives, does it help to add 2 stroke oil to the diesel like a good synthetic one?


I used to add it to my tank when I used diesel but quit doing it because there was no evidence that it helped the CP3 pump, even empirically. Some guys on the Cumins forums still use it in their 2003 and up CP3 common rail trucks but many have stopped doing it because there was really no evidence one way or the other that it helps prolong IP life. It is almost a requirement on the 98-2002 trucks with the retarded VP44 pumps though. The Duramax guys who also have the CP3, like it not for their pumps but rather to prolong their crappy GM injector life. Our CP3 Common rail pumps are virtually indestructible, especially with low demands placed on them by our tiny engines.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 4:40 am 
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nursecosmo wrote:
mackruss wrote:
With regards to additives, does it help to add 2 stroke oil to the diesel like a good synthetic one?


I used to add it to my tank when I used diesel but quit doing it because there was no evidence that it helped the CP3 pump, even empirically. Some guys on the Cumins forums still use it in their 2003 and up CP3 common rail trucks but many have stopped doing it because there was really no evidence one way or the other that it helps prolong IP life. It is almost a requirement on the 98-2002 trucks with the retarded VP44 pumps though. The Duramax guys who also have the CP3, like it not for their pumps but rather to prolong their crappy GM injector life. Our CP3 Common rail pumps are virtually indestructible, especially with low demands placed on them by our tiny engines.


The reason i asked was because i have some Castrol outboard 2 stroke oil from my outboard and thought of adding some to the diesel to see if it would quieten the engine a bit.

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 10:54 am 
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This might help you out.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=27336
It has a study in it you can go thru and see how different additives help with lubricity.

I don't see anything wrong with adding 2 stroke oil, it seems to help my jeep a bit, but I use Super Tech TC-W3 it is a non synthetic. You can use synthetic I BELIEVE? but in smaller ratios. I run 1 ounce per gallon or 128:1. Biodiesel is WAY better at lubricity but 2-stroke doesn't seem to hurt.

Well I can't say that for sure now that I think about it cause I've done the EHM and the SEGR so if it creates more soot it could be bad for the EGR and the boost pressure sensor. Choice is yours.

Jason

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 11:06 am 
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mackruss wrote:

The reason i asked was because i have some Castrol outboard 2 stroke oil from my outboard and thought of adding some to the diesel to see if it would quieten the engine a bit.


Honestly, if you're wanting a quieter engine, try the BioD or even a lower percentage blend. I usually use B20 for good all-season performance since I have a commercial fuel distributor nearby. The difference in engine noise between it and regular ULSD is significant, and if you try B100, the difference is downright obvious, even to my wife ("Honey, did you do something to the jeep? It got really quiet all of the sudden.").

Dan

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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2008 12:09 pm 
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bdptp73 wrote:
This might help you out.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=27336
It has a study in it you can go thru and see how different additives help with lubricity.

I don't see anything wrong with adding 2 stroke oil, it seems to help my jeep a bit, but I use Super Tech TC-W3 it is a non synthetic. You can use synthetic I BELIEVE? but in smaller ratios. I run 1 ounce per gallon or 128:1. Biodiesel is WAY better at lubricity but 2-stroke doesn't seem to hurt.

Well I can't say that for sure now that I think about it cause I've done the EHM and the SEGR so if it creates more soot it could be bad for the EGR and the boost pressure sensor. Choice is yours.











Jason


I've got TCW3 as well non synthetic which i thought of adding but wasn't sure if it was safe or not. I also have a synthetic 2 stroke which i bought for the lawnmower and chainsaw which says safe for use with injectors and cats.

Has anybody tried a product called WM Penn Valve ease. Made for petrol engines and spec'ed as an upper cylinder lubricant.

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