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PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 3:21 pm 
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The Test Bypass plug would be the best test, but as very few actually made and have that plug, testing the individual wiring is next best - you could just punt by installing temporary jumpers in the vehicle-side plug - the diagram is in the instruction sheets

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 Post subject: Kit building update
PostPosted: Sat Dec 29, 2007 1:25 pm 
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For all those waiting on kits, I have completed and shipped to the following people (sorry, I don't have some of your LOST ids):

Walker
Laidlaw
Meade
Brooks
Taylor

For the complete builds, I have built the boxes up all the way, and will be starting on the harnesses this weekend. Digikey has once again delayed shipment on the wire I ordered, but I will build up my personal harness without and test all the boxes while I'm waiting. I should be done with those and ship them in two weeks.

Thanks all for your patience.

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'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

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 Post subject: my update, results may vary
PostPosted: Mon Dec 31, 2007 3:24 am 
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Location: Roseburg Or
big holiday trip with the SEGR, round trip all interstate, some around town stuff, about 600 miles towing a 4x8 U-haul trailer with all the supplies two kids, two adults :roll: and two dogs need for a long weekend at the folks place, and no problems at all. got about 23-24 mpg according to the overhead evic.

I might be bragging, but I bet I got better MPG than anybody else on the interstate towing a trailer, doing 70 plus (don't tell U-haul) and loving it.

:D

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 Post subject: hello...new to the forum..interested in the segr
PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 8:20 pm 
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kind of absorbing all of this quickly...we see the ccv vent dealie..and this setup..

we are interested in the KISS kit where the most is already done

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 Post subject: Bypass plug tested
PostPosted: Tue Jan 01, 2008 11:35 pm 
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I finally got around to making the bypass plug for the SEGR.

see http://picasaweb.google.com/bill.barg/J ... 5947213202

I tested it and it worked fine.

It was noticeable how much quieter the idle is without the segr. It was also noted that the manifold air temperature was 40 deg F hotter, as expected due to the open EGR.

I made the bypass to have just in case the SEGR electronics failed or I was headed for the Dealer for warrantee work

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:48 am 
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what exactly am I looking at...where does that go...am I correct that the segr kit will disconnect the maf when in gear so the egr stops? and the cel doesnt come on? also...does this mean that the system is working as normal during idle?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 12:06 pm 
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parc wrote:
what exactly am I looking at...where does that go...am I correct that the segr kit will disconnect the maf when in gear so the egr stops? and the cel doesnt come on? also...does this mean that the system is working as normal during idle?
The SEGR kit disconnects the EGR valve and allows the AFC to remain completely open. The MAF signal is intercepted and condiitioned to trick the ECM into thinking the EGR and AFC are operating. Idle is no different, but when the transmission is put into park, the AFC is reconnected for a smooth engine shutdown.

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'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

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 Post subject: SEGR
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 3:01 pm 
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so we could leave the maf plugged in all the time?

where can we get one of these???

also..what about that ccv mod or provent.....you could do both and get better results?

where do you get the provent or equivalent?

where do we get the segr WITH THE ADAPTER PICTURED ABOVE?

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Last edited by parc on Wed Jan 02, 2008 3:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: SEGR
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 3:06 pm 
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parc wrote:
also..what avout that ccv mod or provent.....idoes this make that not necessary?


There are two problems with the intake:

  • soot from the EGR
  • oil from the CCV

The ORM or this SEGR kit will solve the soot problem. You'll still need a Provent or similar solution to solve the oil problem. I'm working on a non-Provent solution for our CRD, and I will share details as I find time to make progress.

- Chris

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 Post subject: Finally installed the kit...some thoughts:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 3:07 pm 
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So, I finally got around to putting the kit in on the 1st. I built the PCB with a buddy some months ago in his office with a proper soldering station, fume hood, etc. It was nice. I did the rest (wire identification, splicing, firewall poking, kit assembly) yesterday. The latter portion took me about 12 hours in my dimly lit garage using the floor as a desk. Some thoughts on the mater:

- Moving the fuel head assembly REALLY helps, both in manipulating the wiring harnesses and looms and also identifying the firewall pass-through
- Harness 2's cover was about impossible to get off, so I didn't bother. The T41 lead was the only yellow wire and the ignition-triggered power had multiple leads to choose from.
- I pulled negative from the threaded rod next to the drivers kick-panel (same place as the leads going up into the a-pillar). Since this isn't a high-frequency device, I didn't think it necessary to run a negative lead all the way from the computer.
- those little pins are a bugger unless you have the exact right crimp tool. Luckily I had some experience faking it so careful use of needle nose did the trick.
- soldering on the floor in a garage takes a long time....
- I owe gmtcd a beer for correctly identifying the colors on plug1. The manual is so wrong I don't even want to think about it :)

So, I got some good picks that I'll post soon, but I wanted to wait till I did the final mounting of the box inside the cab. Anyone have a good close-up of mounting in the kick-panel area that doesn't require cutting of the plastic trim piece?

Dan

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 3:30 pm 
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SO WHATS THE DIFFERENCE IN THE ORM AND THIS MOD...IS THE ORM EASIER...


from the description posted above it seems beyond our capability>>?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 3:37 pm 
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parc wrote:
SO WHATS THE DIFFERENCE IN THE ORM AND THIS MOD...IS THE ORM EASIER...


from the description posted above it seems beyond our capability>>?


ORM disables the EGR features by disconnecting a sensor, leaving a error light, a dangling harness, and an air flow valve that's still restricting the incoming air into the manifold to some degree. SEGR uses some electronic logic to use the input from the MAF sensor to effectively fool the computer into thinking everything is normal while bypassing the EGR and Flow valve functions (effectively disabling them) while the transmission is in anything except park/neutral).

If you're not comfortable under the hood and working with electronics, then yes, the SEGR may be a bit too much. Simply doing the ORM will give you most of the benefits and only leave the nagging MIL lit all the time.

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245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
Fumoto drain | ProVent CCV Filter
Stanadyne FM100 filter | Cummins fuel pump
GDE Eco | SEGR | BoulderBars | FrankenLift | Frankenskids


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 3:47 pm 
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okay thanks...

I think if there were detailed directions...we could do the segr...is there something to read with a step by step directions?

and again...where do we get this mod and the provent type set up....?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 4:03 pm 
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Parc

See http://img260.imageshack.us/my.php?imag ... ingbs8.gif for a simple diagram including the optional bypass plug that "repairs" the stock wiring breaks and returns the system to stock behaviour.

operation is as Turbo Tim Describes in summary

" With the ORM circuit installed and hooked up, the EGR NEVER opens! It stays in the full shut position. No more crap put back into the intake manifold. The ONLY time, and ONLY time it can or will open again is if the ORM circuit is taken out (unplugged) and the jumper plug put in to return the whole system back to stock (or normal) for use back out on the highway.

With the ORM circuit installed, the FCV or AFC (Air Flow Control valve) ONLY works in park or neutral. It is only active in these two positions for shut-down reasons (anti shudder). In drive & reverse, it is OFF. Again, it is put back into full operation ONLY when the ORM circuit is unplugged and the jumper put back in for use on the street.

The MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor is always on and working. The only thing here is that the "True" MAF signal only gets to the CPU ONLY when the ORM circuit is unplugged and the jumper plug put in to return the whole system back to normal for use on the street. "

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06 CRD LTD - Suncoast TC- Shift Kit - Spicer UJ - FRKNLIFT - F37 - Magnaflow - 22.0 City - 24@65MPH - Fumoto F-102 - AUX T Cooler - Tank Lift Pump


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 4:37 pm 
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he mentions "back on for use on the highway"


why do you need it back on for the highway?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 4:45 pm 
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also
if you take the vehicle in for service (warranty) even if the jumper in in....wouoldnt they see some trace even if they dont find the wiring?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 4:47 pm 
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parc wrote:
he mentions "back on for use on the highway"


why do you need it back on for the highway?
Technically emission system modifications are illegal for vehicles operated on public roads.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 4:47 pm 
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parc wrote:
also
if you take the vehicle in for service (warranty) even if the jumper in in....wouoldnt they see some trace even if they dont find the wiring?
No. Not if they are not looking, which is a good assumption. This modification is not for the extremely paranoid.

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'05 Liberty CRD B100, SEGR - SOLD

'01 Beetle TDi B100, EGR delete
'83 Mercedes 240D B100, no EGR

--- SEGR Builder ---


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 5:50 pm 
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When you take it in for service - the odds are pretty low that they even know what a CRD is...... much less the wiring details.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 02, 2008 9:42 pm 
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our luck they call in the crd expert and get caught...I suppose the worst that could happen is loss of warranty

whats involved in doing the off road mod???

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