So, I finally got around to putting the kit in on the 1st. I built the PCB with a buddy some months ago in his office with a proper soldering station, fume hood, etc. It was nice. I did the rest (wire identification, splicing, firewall poking, kit assembly) yesterday. The latter portion took me about 12 hours in my dimly lit garage using the floor as a desk. Some thoughts on the mater:
- Moving the fuel head assembly REALLY helps, both in manipulating the wiring harnesses and looms and also identifying the firewall pass-through
- Harness 2's cover was about impossible to get off, so I didn't bother. The T41 lead was the only yellow wire and the ignition-triggered power had multiple leads to choose from.
- I pulled negative from the threaded rod next to the drivers kick-panel (same place as the leads going up into the a-pillar). Since this isn't a high-frequency device, I didn't think it necessary to run a negative lead all the way from the computer.
- those little pins are a bugger unless you have the exact right crimp tool. Luckily I had some experience faking it so careful use of needle nose did the trick.
- soldering on the floor in a garage takes a long time....
- I owe gmtcd a beer for correctly identifying the colors on plug1. The manual is so wrong I don't even want to think about it
So, I got some good picks that I'll post soon, but I wanted to wait till I did the final mounting of the box inside the cab. Anyone have a good close-up of mounting in the kick-panel area that doesn't require cutting of the plastic trim piece?
Dan
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2005 Silver CRD Limited

245/75R16 GoodYear Duratracs
Fumoto drain | ProVent CCV Filter
Stanadyne FM100 filter | Cummins fuel pump
GDE Eco | SEGR | BoulderBars | FrankenLift | Frankenskids