ERG and MAF Sensor

Turbowhine · **Posted:** Mon Aug 18, 2008 7:55 pm

I am just looking to verify some information I have found and seek opinions. I have read that if the MAF sensor is disonnected it disables the EGR.(with a cel light of course.) I don't enjoy cleaning my boost sensor and want to keep the soot out of my intake. I am still under warranty and don't want to do anything permanent just yet. So is it okay to do temporarily? I a way I can't wait until my warrantly is done!
Thanks for the help.
Joe

gmctd · **Posted:** Mon Aug 18, 2008 9:57 pm

Won't hurt a thing, except a dealership scan can see that it was in alarm, even if you hook it back up - the cheap Cobra code reader from harborfreignt will read DTC's and reset them - @ ~40bucks, you might install one so the alarm stays off until the next time you start the engine - the reader will then reset it

mackruss · **Posted:** Fri Aug 22, 2008 10:58 am

Hi

I'm new to the forum and forgive me for asking something that's already been flogged to death, My CRD manual 6spd is now out of warranty so the fiddling starts.

I'm keen to find out more about my particular model which is a 2006 and if the 2.8l differs in any way here in South Africa compared to the US models. I have already disconnected
the MAF and done the EHM. It's a bit difficult for me to source the provents and SEGR's that some of the folk are talking about here down south where i am.

Were the problems experienced with the EGR's on the 2005 models fixed in the 2006's as i have yet had to replace an EGR and that's with 73K ( km's ) on the clock.
I have been using ULSD ( 50ppm ) for 2 years that i have had the CRD and perhaps that's why i haven't yet had any problems.

I would be keen to find out if i have a vacuum operated EGR like the European models or electronic like the US models. I also don't know if i have the Flow control valve
that i have read about in some of these forums. I'm concerned in that i don't want to go ahead pulling sensors etc if i'm going to cause damage to the engine but then again our
emission controls are not as stringent down here so i would prefer not to have the exhaust gasses going back through the intake if possible without wanting to cause any damage
to the engine.

I'd appreciate some feedback from you experienced CRD folk who have already gone through all of the pains already.

Russ.

gmctd · **Posted:** Fri Aug 22, 2008 1:41 pm

Hi Mack - welcome to the forum - first, to get started, look toward the rear of the engine, left side (Turbo-side) as you're looking at it from the front, see if there is a vacuum control pod on the exhaust manifold between the last two cylinders, which would be the EGR actuator - there will be another vacuum pod near the middle on that side for the turbo control - Uffe and Sir Sam posted some photos of the Euro versions awhile back, SEARCH may turn them up

mackruss · **Posted:** Sat Aug 23, 2008 7:11 am

Hi

Thanks for the response - I had a look and could see one vacuum valve on the left hand side only. The pipe from this valve goes into a black modulator that
has two inlets,the top inlet says vac and the bottom inlet says out. The pipe goes into the inlet that says out. I climbed underneath the Jeep and saw what looked like EGR valve with a connector and what appeared to be the FCV above that also with its own connector.

Maybe this will help a bit as i'm still confused. I saw the Euro postings and the modulator looks the same as mine. I removed the two pipes and blocked them off and took a drive around the block.
There was a lack of power, i don't think the turbo was spooling enough and an increase in sound from the muffler. Quickly came back home and changed to stock hoping i had not damaged anything in the process.

Russ.

gmctd · **Posted:** Sat Aug 23, 2008 12:59 pm

Intense black smoke?

mackruss · **Posted:** Sat Aug 23, 2008 1:35 pm

No i didn't notice any black smoke, the fella at the pump station asked me if i had a V8 in this thing and i said no i think there's a hole in the muffler which i knew wasn't the case.

mackruss · **Posted:** Sat Aug 23, 2008 1:43 pm

Further to my previous post, i have re-connected the MAF and waiting for the CEL to go away. I'll wait to hear about the EGR and ways of bypassing before going ahead
with any mods that could break the engine. I have free flowed the exhaust system which i must say made a huge difference to the turbo spooling and throttle response.

gmctd · **Posted:** Sat Aug 23, 2008 5:02 pm

That vacuum pod should be the EGR valve - the piece on the other end of the pipe should be the EGR cooler - remove the tubing from the vac actuator, plug the tubing so it cannot leak, that disables EGR - or put a blank plate between the valve and the pipe to the cooler, sorta like a gasket without a hole

mackruss · **Posted:** Sat Aug 23, 2008 5:59 pm

What does the egr cooler look like, is it the black thing in front of the air box that looks like a coil with the two hoses. If i disconnect the hose and plug the end of it i can still hear a vac sucking noise coming from the opening of the actuator, am i making sense, sorry i'm not very mechanically minded. The black coil like item that i'm referring to has a filter below it if that helps.

gmctd · **Posted:** Sat Aug 23, 2008 6:39 pm

Point me to the Euro posting pics.............

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Sat Aug 23, 2008 9:08 pm

Only photos I saw in the Euro section were from Uffe - don't know if they'll help.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=31369

gmctd · **Posted:** Sat Aug 23, 2008 9:36 pm

You're right, but thanks anyway - somebody posted a whole slew of EURO 2.5\2.8 pics awhile back, where the differences were plainly visible - guess they shoulda been stuck up in CRD TECH section for posteriority's sake

mackruss · **Posted:** Sun Aug 24, 2008 4:10 am

That's exactly what i did that Uffe had done with his but it seemed to effect the performance of the turbo as i said earlier. Perhaps i have the same configuration as the US models
do.

brew1 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 24, 2008 5:21 pm

mackruss wrote:

That's exactly what i did that Uffe had done with his but it seemed to effect the performance of the turbo as i said earlier. Perhaps i have the same configuration as the US models
do.

I sure would be interested in finding out more about that 6 speed manual transmission you have. Do you have a Jeep Liberty with a 2.8 CRD? If I could swap out our piece of stinky poo DC slushbox for a real transmission like your 6 speed manual, that would be awesome. Certainly would be a better way to put the power to the pavement vs. what we have now.

Any chance you could tell me the manufacturer and part # on that 6 speed manual transmision?

Thanks

gmctd · **Posted:** Sun Aug 24, 2008 8:20 pm

Nothing special, it's all DCJ off-the-shelf items for export vehicles, listed in the export parts manual - trans, bellhousing, clutch cylinders (same as '06 Cummins Dodges), clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, pedal and linkage, etc - you got the money, honey, they got the time......................

brew1 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 24, 2008 10:18 pm

gmctd wrote:

Nothing special, it's all DCJ off-the-shelf items for export vehicles, listed in the export parts manual - trans, bellhousing, clutch cylinders (same as '06 Cummins Dodges), clutch, pressure plate, flywheel, pedal and linkage, etc - you got the money, honey, they got the time......................

That sounds promising. I don't suppose there are any U.S. DC vehicles that currently use the identical setup that I could possibly pick up from a boneyard.

gmctd · **Posted:** Mon Aug 25, 2008 1:00 am

Problem being the bellhousing bolt-pattern - all the stuff is available in the manual trans gasser(patooie!) KJ's, but the bellhousing and flywheel is specific to the 2.8L engine - the 4.7L V8 and Hemi uses the same identical 5spd 545RFE trans, and the bellhousings interchange amongst them, but not us - find a bellhousing and flywheel and everything else can be boneyarded - you'll need the left-hand drive pedals and stuff from an American KJ, anyway

mackruss · **Posted:** Mon Aug 25, 2008 4:09 am

I'll see what i can find out for you.

mackruss · **Posted:** Thu Aug 28, 2008 4:47 am

Is it ok if i nip the two wires connected to the EGR sensor and will this disable it 100% with a CEL of course. I thought of fitting a male/female connector to the wires in order to reconnect the wires when needed.

Also, how difficult is it to remove the CEL LCD from the instrument panel, can anyone help.

Mack.

ERG and MAF Sensor

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