WARNING: SCREWING UP ANYTHING IN THIS THREAD CAN POTENTIALLY DAMAGE YOUR JEEP. IF YOU DON'T Feel CONFIDENT DOING THIS CORRECT FIND SOMEONE WHO IS
So lets say you just bought a CRD. Congrats and welcome to the forum! Read this guide as it will take you through the basics of CRD ownership.For those veterans out there if you have a suggestion, correction, general grievance, fan mail, hate mail, or wish to recommend some links to be added for various topics please PM me rather than clutter up the thread.
It is my intention that as time progresses to add links to specific how to articles already written and yet to be written, so don't panic if they are not here yet. Remember search is your friend, it can be frustrating trying to find information in it, but most of it is there, buried somewhere, at the very least you should learn a little bit from the search and give you a leg up on asking intelligent questions when it comes time to make a post.
So you just got a CRD, we need to do a little work on it to bring it to its true potential. Don't worry, most of this will only consume your Saturday if your willing to forgo sleeping in and get up and get to working on it. This guide will not concentrate on the specifics of how to do each task, but rather what should be done and why(as in not the nuts and bolts of the procedure, sizes of wrenches, how to remove a filter etc). As a side note, if you are past the 100k mile mark then you need to change the timing belt, don't put it off or it will only cost more, see the "Advanced Noob Guide and FAQ's" at the bottom of this document.
Generally speaking you do not have to be a mechanical engineer, or an ASE certified master mechanic to do most of these basic things. But a fair set of tools, a set of old garage clothes(probably ones that your WD(wife department, SO, GF BF BFF etc) made you stop wearing), and a little bit of brain power will get you a long way. If you don't have those things, well you better start finding a good shop nearby and get friendly with them. I recommend coffee and baked goods.Before you start, lets familiarize yourself with the engine bay:
Noted here are some of the more important things in the engine bay:
(The most important things of note here are the MAP, the MAF/ORM, the CCV/EHM, and the fuel filter head)
Click here for a high resolution of the above image:http://colorado4wheel.com/images/libby/enginebay1.jpg
The MAP sensor is a little hidden behind a bundle of wires, you can pull them up at bit to help gain access(more on the MAP later in the document):Things to spend your first Saturday working on:
First off, lets check that air filter, if it needs to be replaced do it. A dirty air filter will limit the amount of air the CRD can suck, which will hurt your performance and fuel economy.
, unless you know that the fuel filter has recently been replaced(as with the PO(previous owner) marking the filter with the mileage at time of change), you should replace it. A dirty fuel filter will cause driveability problems and near total power loss. The symptoms can sneak up on you and leave you with a dangerously underpowered vehicle when you need it(such as trying to pass a Semi or merging with traffic). Napa is usually a pretty good bet and has what appears to be a rebranded WIX with a part number of FIL 3647
for about $30, you can usually find one in stock in your town. Grab a Sharpie or other permanent marker and write the mileage when you change it on the filter, it will help you know when its time to replace it again.
Here is a link that will give some options on different replacement fuel filters:viewtopic.php?f=5&t=47573
This is a pretty good thread talking about Fuel filter replacement:viewtopic.php?t=9783
(also see the fuel filter head section in Getting the most from your CRD below.
During the fuel filter replacement you will also learn how to bleed air out of the filter head, should you ever experience a sudden loose of power, which can often be cured by turning off the vehicle and then starting it up again, then it is likely you are experiencing air in the filter head. Pumping the primer and opening the 11mm(or 7/16" wrench) bleeder will get the air out of the head, at least temporarily. But we will talk about this more later, in the Getting the Most from your CRD.
This is the fuel heater head:(The short explanation for how to bleed fuel out is to pump the primer several times until it gets firm, then open the 11mm bleeder screw, let fuel and air spurt out, then close and repeat until only fuel comes out. You may want to have a rag to catch the diesel that comes out of the bleeder.)
Here is a youtube video
about how to bleed the air from the fuel filter head:http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qPwGcWi3gE0
lets clean your MAP(see below for the description of the MAP). Chances are the PO never cleaned it, and the service guys didn't even know it existed, so its full of gunk. I have had several friends purchase CRDs which had noticeably lower performance than mine, when we pulled the map we noticed it was just all caked over in gunk. Now this is a delicate part, so some care should be taken when cleaning it. Many solvents can be used to clean it but MAF(Mass Airflow Sensor) cleaner is probably one of the safer bets, and is available at many local FLAPS(Friendly Local Auto Parts Store). Personally I have used brake cleaner, electric parts cleaner, diesel, and biodiesel, and these seem to all be safe as well(just make sure to use one that is non-chlorinated).
Here is a good Thread about cleaning the MAP:viewtopic.php?f=98&t=22630
FourthOk, got any energy left after all that? Good!
, lets check your Boost hoses. Oily mist coats the intake and gets all over the inside surface of the hoses, this causes the hoses to soften, and then split or rupture. If your hoses are original you could be driving around on a ticking time bomb so to speak. Don't worry, if this does happen it won't kill the engine, or damage anything else, but you will be driving a vehicle with almost no power, and one that really can't be safely driven in traffic. Basically you should be able to limp home with a bad hose, and then wait a week for a new one to arrive while your Jeep sits in the garage. If there are any ruptures, tears, splits etc, then they need to be replaced now. If there are any very soft or gooey spots you should start thinking about replacements. While you have them out go ahead and give them a hand cleaning with some dawn type soap. You might want to do this outside with the garden hose as the WD(Wife department) will most likely be upset when she see's this being done in her kitchen. There are two options for replacement, OEM hoses, or Samco hoses. The new OEM turbo side hose comes with a new oil resistant liner, the drivers side intake hose does not. The new Samco units are stouter than stock, both have the oil resistant liners, come in different colors if you care about such things, but are a little more expensive than OEM.
Here is a good thread that debates the merits of both:viewtopic.php?f=5&t=51797
Boostcontroller.com has been the best source so far for the Samco hoses:http://www.boostcontroller.com/index.ph ... ord%3Djeep
MoparPartsAmerica has the new OEM set at $200 + shipping, you will need to part numbers below:http://www.moparpartsamerica.com
new turbo side intercooler hose - 55038729AA
new intake side intercooler hose - 55037730AD
In addition to the Boost hoses the turbo inlet hose can fail as well from a combination of heat and CCV residue. It's not a right away sort of thing, but it's a silent killer sort of thing, so you really need to check it at some point. This hose runs from the airbox down to the turbo inlet, and some pictures and discussion can be found here:viewtopic.php?f=5&t=60636
Fifth, Lets change your oil!
Personally I would recommend the Mobile One M1-301*. It is a good quality filter and only costs a few bucks more than its cheaper Fram equivalent, the PH8A. This filter is larger than the one originally specified for the CRD, it is large in diameter, and is longer. Physically it has more filtration area than the stock sized filter. If running a non-stock part bothers you then stick to the Mobile One, or other high quality filter specified for the CRD from your local FLAPS. Now I should caution that the CRD uses an aluminum oil pan, you can't just tighten down the drain plug as hard as you want to like on a steel pan. The drain plug SHOULD use a copper crush wash to seal the pan, which means you don't need to torque it down real tight. There is a good chance that someone in the past didn't know this, and that the drain plug is missing the crush washer, and even possibly that your drain plug threads may be somewhat stripped. Should this be the case don't fret, it can be fixed! A Helicoil or other threaded insert can be installed to fix the problem.
*There is some concern that the M1-301 will not fit with factory skids - LOST member sidebrake confirms later in this thread that the M1-301 does fit with the stock skids.
But lets talk about prevention! First, always use a crush washer, its even a good idea to replace it each time, I got a set of copper crush washer from harbor freight very cheaply just for this purpose, there are enough washer there to last me for years. Now lets say your threads are kinda questionable, or you just don't want to take any chances. A good solution to the problem is to install an oil drain valve. The Fumoto drain valve, Part Number: F-102 with the PF-3/8 thread which can be found online, is a screw in valve, that will eliminate the need to unscrew the plug, simply turn the valve and drain the oil.
So thats it, we've covered the basics. If your the preventative maintenance type of person I would also recommend a tranny flush and new filters. This is just good measure but its not something you should do right away like the above items. You could probably follow this up by a front differential oil change.Getting the most from your CRD.
(a picture to help identify the components in this section will be added shortly)
The following are some quick terms to read through, what they are, and why they are important:The MAF
(Mass Airflow Sensor) is located on the airbox, its sole purpose is to determine when the EGR is active.The EGR
(Exhaust Gas Recirculation) is used to reduce NOx, but at the expense of lowered fuel economy and dirty intake.The FCV
(Flow Control Valve) is a valve akin to a throttle valve on a gasoline engine, it is used to eliminate shudder at shutdown and during EGR operation is partially closed creating a venturi effect helping to pull exhaust gas into the intake.Here is a good recent thread talking about the FCV: viewtopic.php?f=5&t=60485The MAP
(Manifold Absolute Pressure) Sensor is the main sensor that governs ALL fuel injection, timing, boost control, etc. This is the main engine sensor, without it the ECU cannot correctly determine the injection event and the boost. This sensor needs to be kept clean. With a stock CRD the combination of oil overfill, stock CCV, and EGR will leave this sensor coated with a sooty oily mess in about 8k miles. When the sensor is dirty the CRD will experience decreased fuel economy, decreased power, increased turbo lag, worse drivability, hesitation etc. The sensor is also delicate and care needs to be taken when cleaning, the best solution is to do the modifications to cleanup the intake path. After nearly 50k miles of the ORM my MAP stays clean, really only needing to be cleaning every 50k miles or so.The ORM
(Off Road Modification) is where the MAF is unplugged, with the MAF unplugged the EGR ceases to function. You will see a cleaner intake, better driveability, and better fuel economy with the EGR disabled via the ORM. This will cause a CEL(Check engine light) to be thrown constantly. This information applies to the 2005-2007 KJ CRD.
Here is a blurb about how to accomplish the ORM for the 2002-2004 2.5/2.8 KJ CRD:
The 2.5 CRD does not have a mass airflow sensor.....I have a 2002 2.5 CRD.
The nice thing about our models is that it is easy to disable the EGR....without generating any codes.
You see the small black plastic cylinder sitting in front of the airfilter and behind the washer bottle? It has a small clear paper filter dropping out below it, has two small rubber pipes plugged on it and has a connector on it. This is the EGR solenoid for the 2.5 CRD. You can block off the pipes which will then stop the EGR working...the best way is to pull off one of the pipes and screw a small self-tapping screw into the plastic hole then replace the pipe to cover the screw.
The ECU on the 2.5 CRD does not check if the EGR has been disabled...it only senses current through the solenoid so if you do not unplug the connector...you will get no codes generated.
(Elephant Hose Modification) is where the CCV(Crank Case Vent)
is rerouted from the turbo intake and vents to atmosphere. This reduces the oily mist and vapors that would otherwise normally coat the inside of our boost hoses, and CAC(Charge Air Cooler / Intercooler). If the hose is simply routed down next to the ground occasional mist and drops of oil can be seen coming from the hose. This is undesirable to some people.
(Link here: viewtopic.php?f=98&t=22703
Some more discussion about the EHM, and what not to do, and why you may not want it:viewtopic.php?f=5&t=74236
A Provent is a name brand device that is a filter that will separate out the oily mist from the air, and then returns the crank case air to the turbo inlet. An EHM does the exactly same purpose, but in a cheaper way. The Provent is also good because many places it will still pass emissions inspection. The counter to this is that being a rubber hose the EHM is very easy to undo and reinstall back to stock for the purpose of emissions inspection.
The combination of EGR soot and CCV oil is the root cause of probably 75% of owner maintenance/ repair issues with the Jeep Liberty CRD, and those issues can be solved with a few simple actions.The SEGR
First things first, unplug the MAF sensor to disable the EGR and stop the flow of exhaust (read: soot) into the intake. (Link here: viewtopic.php?f=98&t=22631
It will cause a CEL(Check Engine Light), but it is a good temporary fix until you can make a decision on a GDE tune, other tune, or SEGR, which diminish or negate EGR recirculation. As stated, soot in the intake of a diesel is BAD.
Next, install an Elephant Hose (or Provent, see above) to stop oil mist flowing into your turbo and intake tract. (See above for the EHM
As stated above, mix that oil with soot from the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR), and you get sludge in the intake. It builds up, restricting the flow of air and affecting the MAP sensor reading, which is next.
First is the combination of Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) and Closed Crankcase Ventilation. (CCV) These are EPA-required (not sure of Canada's governing body) emissions components on all passenger vehicles sold for highway use in the United States. The EGR directs a percentage of exhaust gases into the intake to be combusted. Unfortunately, diesel exhaust produces soot, and that soot ends up in the intake of your engine. Ever busted a toner cartridge? Yeah, like that, but worse.
Here is a good pic of soot in an actual EGR valve (thx DZL_LOU and DarbyWalters):
Here is picture of an important sensor, called the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) from the intake tract of a CRD, the way it SHOULD look (thx old navy and DarbyWalters):
Here is that same sensor coated in soot from the EGR (thx chispitude):
is another component that allows gases from the crankcase to escape the engine and go into the intake for combustion. In most situations, there would be no problem with this, vehicles have had these since the late 60's. However, the "puck" on the top of our engines that allows the gases out also allows engine oil out in a condensate, or mist, form. That oil collects in the intercooler hoses and degrades them over time, and, worst of all, combines with the soot from the EGR to produce a sludgey, tar-like substance that coats the intake tract, sapping performance and triggering Check Engine Lights. (CEL)
Here is picture of the same sensor above coated in oil from the CCV (thx 0311_DoC):
(Synthetic EGR) is a kit designed and built by members here which allows the turn off of the EGR without setting a CEL. It serves the exact same purpose as the ORM without causing the CEL the ORM does. This is nessesary for some people, particularly those who have spouse who drive the vehicle.Oil Overfill
, do not overfill the oil, and do not fill it to the top of the dipstick line for MAX. Even at MAX the oil is really too high, the extra oil will then be blown out through the intake, coating the inside of the boost hoses and CAC.Replacement filter head
, a new redesigned fuel filter head which is less prone to leaking and heater head failure was released by chrysler. If you think you need to replace your fuel filter then you should consider replacing this at the same time. The new head comes with a filter attached and is easy to install. You will need to replace the heater plug at the same time.
New Redesigned Fuel Filter Head - 68043089AA
Wiring Adapter Plug - 68043086AB
Fuel Filter Itself - 52129238AA
(NAPA: FIL 3647, WIX: 33647)
Here is a nice pictorial showing the replacement to the upgraded filter head:viewtopic.php?f=5&t=64260 Lift Pump
, one of the problems people have experienced is air in the fuel filter head. Some of these have been cured with the new replacement filter head, but some have not. Some people constantly experienced problems, and others like myself have never had an issue. The problem arises in that the tank does not have a electric pump in it, meaning the that injection pump must suck(as if through a very long straw) all the fuel from the tank, through the lines, and through the filter(which a dirty filter can also cause problems here). Since this system is under suction, and therefore a vacuum, instead of a little fuel leak that coats the filter with some grime, air gets sucked into and builds in the system until it replaces fuel being injected into your engine, and you loose power.
The solution to this problem is to install an electric lift pump in the system. Some have installed various aftermarket pumps at the tank, or before the filter head. But the most "stock" looking installation is to install a Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel in tank fuel pump assembly, and a gasoline KJ wiring harness. These parts are as much of a "bolt-on" modification as you can get. Simply drop the tank and install the new parts. The Cummins fuel pump assembly will sit right down in your tank like a factory install. For more information check out these links with lots of good info:http://www.auerbach.ca/kj/lift_pump/F37 CSN/Torque Converter Shudder
(CSN = customer satisfaction notice): This is the demon-spawn hack of the Jeep world. The CRD's put out so much torque that in the early days the Torque converter was prone to failure. Chrysler's solution was to do a recall, a newer torque converter, and a ECU/TCM reflashed that detuned the engine some. For years this detune was unfixable, once it was done the Jeep was neutered. But thanks to modern science we can now undo that neutering. Various companies offer upgraded ECU tunes, and most recently TCM tunes that restore the jeep to what it used to be! GDE, Inmotion and Suncoast both offer these services. These days there is even a newer, better OEM torque converter that can be purchase for about $250 new(Prices have now gone up since first posting, I believe it is around $350 now). This is the same unit as what comes in the new jeep diesels over seas. In addition to the new OEM unit Suncoast makes a quality upgraded unit for the CRD, this unit is more expensive that then new OEM replacement. I will leave the debate as to which is better to another thread for discussion:
Part of the desire to replace or upgrade the torque converter comes from the "shudder" experienced by some owners. Some owners have had it consistently, and other have never experienced it. If you do experience shudder then you should consider upgrading the torque converter. Should your converter fail there is a risk that it can also cause the transmission to fail. Leaving you replacing both a transmission and a torque converter, rather than just the cheaper torque converter. In addition if you are considering an ECU tune for improved performance and fuel economy you should consider a new torque converter as peace of mind. The higher output of the new tune can often cause a failure of the torque converter. It is advisable to replace it prior to an ECU flash.ECU
Electronic Control Unit, this is the engines "brain box". It can be removed and sent off to various companies for reflashing with new performance or economy oriented tunes by such companies as Green Diesel Engineering(GDE) and Inmotion.TCM
Transmission Control Module, this is the transmission "brain box". This can also be sent off to be reflashed for different tunes, or restored to Pre-F37 tune.In summary
Check your air filter, fuel filter, clean your MAP, check your boost hoses, and change your oil.
Then consider doing the ORM, and the EHM or Provent to clean up your intake and get better fuel economy. Those are the most immediate and easy to do things. After that consider what else is in your future.
Before tackling anything or if you just need some light reading the service manuals and parts fiches can be downloaded here:viewtopic.php?f=5&t=24600
Also, CATCRD has compiled a handy reference guide to the various OEM part numbers
needed(which can also be found in the parts fiches).viewtopic.php?f=5&t=54092
Have fun with your Jeep!Now that you've read the noob guide and are about to make your first post I would recommend that you post the following image to let people know you've read the guide.(this is also a starter to familiarize yourself with the pseudo-hypertext forum code)
To post this image you need the image address, which can be found by right clicking on the image, and then selecting "copy image address"
Then either hit the [img
] button above the posting window and paste the address, or type [img
] followed by the address, followed by the close image tag, [/img
An example of what you would type would look like this:
]So if you copy the line of text above and paste it into a post, that will post the noob guide image exactly as above.Advanced Noob Guide, PSAs and FAQs:
First Off, the FAQ list:
Am I having a motor mount failure?viewtopic.php?f=5&t=62293
How do I turn off the seatbelt chime?viewtopic.php?f=1&t=63645&p=703676#p703676PSA's:
My Cruise Control stopped working!viewtopic.php?f=5&t=62466
Check your Turbo Inlet hose!viewtopic.php?f=5&t=60636Advanced Noob:Common CRD torque values:http://colorado4wheel.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=15Where to find a CRD mechanic:viewtopic.php?f=5&t=60730viewtopic.php?f=5&t=64078Pictures, description, and part numbers of the Miller VM Diesel Engine specific tools:viewtopic.php?f=5&t=62477Swapping out leather seats:viewtopic.php?f=5&t=62506Samco vs Other hoses:viewtopic.php?f=5&t=51797Change your timing belt!viewtopic.php?f=5&t=60858
Some comments on why you absolutely must change the timing belt:
I bought a jeep thinking it had a bad engine, turns out the timing belt slipped and messed up the rockers, the owner said "I came up to a stop and it started making more noise than normal, I took it to a mechanic and they said it was just going to cost too much to take it apart and fix it." Our engine, like many others, is an interference engine, this means if the belt slips or breaks the valves WILL contact the cylinder head. In our case the rockers in the head are designed to break/collapse to preserve the valves. This is no reason to ignore the timing belt change interval. New rockers can cost up to $60 each! And with 16 rockers total that adds up to $960USD! Even with my wholesale discount I spent $752 on new rockers. Not to mention the many extra man hours to remove the intake to replace them(at least 5 hours total, and at $75 an hour for shop labor that adds up quick). Minimum to pay someone else to fix it including parts count on $1500, PLUS the normal costs of a timing belt! See the link below for pictures of the carnage:viewtopic.php?f=5&t=62278
Timing belt part numbers(older thread):viewtopic.php?f=5&t=47123