2006 rear-end issues

jnelson76 · **Posted:** Fri Sep 23, 2011 10:14 pm

Hello all,

I have a 2006 crd with about 122k miles and I started noticing a sort of whine coming from the rear. A mechanic friend of my dad's took a look at it and said basically I need a new rear-end. It was mentioned the carrier housing, spider gears (which were said to be loose) and I believe a shim all had problems. We were told it cost 1200 to get a rebuilt one, and also told it would probably last another 10k-20k miles.

I've searched the forums a bit and I see lockers mentioned as a replacement to an open rear-end which I believe all 2006's had. Would this be a viable alternative for a daily driven work driver? I don't do much off-roading at least yet.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sat Sep 24, 2011 12:56 pm

The most important thing is to have a new timing belt installed before driving it anymore. If this has been done, get a GDE tune to disable the EGR and keep the intake from plugging up.

Regarding your rear end, the pinion bearing is probably bad. However, when it goes, it often takes the R&P with it. If you need a LSD, the Detroit TruTrac is the best option and lasts forever. Given a full diff rebuild and DTT install could run $2000, you might see if you can get by with your traction control that the '06 has. More "parts" CRDs have been popping up and picking one of those up will be the best value.

Used rear axles start around $700. Unfortunately, there is not a removeable center section so you have to buy a lot more stuff than usual when you just have a diff problem.

DOC

ibHenry · **Posted:** Sat Sep 24, 2011 1:20 pm

Wouldn't it be cheaper to replace the pinion, axle, and carrier bearings as needed and replace the axle seals, be done with it for another 100k plus. I would do it all myself in my driveway. :JEEPIN:

If you reuse the shims, and put them back in the same places they came from, all should be well.

DOC4444 · **Posted:** Sat Sep 24, 2011 3:01 pm

Usually the R&P needs to be replaced when these units start howling. See below, not to mention all the other bits.

http://www.ringpinion.com/PartsList.asp ... inion+Sets

That's a lot to ruin. Diff work is best left to people who have the experience and special tools.

DOC

Turbo Tim · **Posted:** Sat Sep 24, 2011 3:04 pm

Uhhhh NO. In a perfect world that would work but no two machined parts will be exactly the same. If they could machine it that close they wouldn't need shims in the first place.
If you replace bearings, ring and pinion, you can bet you will be close, but will need to be shimmed to perfect.
If it is not perfect, we all know it will destroy itself in a matter of a few miles. The torque forces are so great a little misalignment will be short lived.
Do your self a favor and do it right the first time. (Ask me how I know).

Roostre · **Joined:** Sun Oct 24, 2010 3:57 pm **Posts:** 195

It definitely depends on the skill level of the individual doing the work. With the right experience and tools it would be doable. However, by the time you price out the ring and pinion and all the bearings, you will probably be close to or over $700. Makes the used rear look like a win in this situation.

I've rebuilt a few axles- it always costs more than you think going in and takes longer... its a Jeep thing. :seuss:

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sat Sep 24, 2011 10:35 pm

DOC4444 wrote:

The most important thing is to have a new timing belt installed before driving it anymore. If this has been done, get a GDE tune to disable the EGR and keep the intake from plugging up.

Regarding your rear end, the pinion bearing is probably bad. However, when it goes, it often takes the R&P with it. If you need a LSD, the Detroit TruTrac is the best option and lasts forever. Given a full diff rebuild and DTT install could run $2000, you might see if you can get by with your traction control that the '06 has. More "parts" CRDs have been popping up and picking one of those up will be the best value.

Used rear axles start around $700. Unfortunately, there is not a removeable center section so you have to buy a lot more stuff than usual when you just have a diff problem.

DOC

No LSD offered for any '06 KJ so he is open,he can add a LSD or locker though.Don't know where you are pricing used 8.25's but you can buy them for less then $250 around here.heck I practically had to give mine away just to get it out of my hair.Sold it for $450 with Yukon 4.10's,Yukon HD axles(will not work in a '06),ARB locker,and HD diff cover.

warp2diesel · **Posted:** Sun Sep 25, 2011 8:07 pm

DOC4444 wrote:

The most important thing is to have a new timing belt installed before driving it anymore. If this has been done, get a GDE tune to disable the EGR and keep the intake from plugging up.

Regarding your rear end, the pinion bearing is probably bad. However, when it goes, it often takes the R&P with it. If you need a LSD, the Detroit TruTrac is the best option and lasts forever. Given a full diff rebuild and DTT install could run $2000, you might see if you can get by with your traction control that the '06 has. More "parts" CRDs have been popping up and picking one of those up will be the best value.

Used rear axles start around $700. Unfortunately, there is not a removeable center section so you have to buy a lot more stuff than usual when you just have a diff problem.

DOC

As published in their documentation, the GDE tune reduces EGR and does not disable it.
Lets keep the facts straight and the Gooberement Lawyers where they belong, drinking at the Bar.
Guess that is why they call it the Bar Association. :ROTFL:

If you want to 100% disable the EGR you need a plate.
The plate does the 100% trick with SEGR, ORM, or GDE Tune.

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sun Sep 25, 2011 8:11 pm

DOC4444 wrote:

That's a lot to ruin. Diff work is best left to people who have the experience and special tools.

DOC

X2 Definetly something the average person would mess up :2cents:

Ajamant · **Posted:** Mon Sep 26, 2011 12:50 am

If it's your daily driver and u don't plan on wheeling it hard then DO NOT get a full time locker. It will handle like crap on the road (yes I know a lot of crazy wrangler people do it all the time). A selectable locker like ARB would be a lot of money for something that didnt get a lot of use.

The Detroit trutrac is a great option, works when u need it and drives on pavement great.

Pay someone to do your rear end unless you know someone that really knows his sh*%.

jnelson76 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 26, 2011 3:59 pm

Ajamant wrote:

If it's your daily driver and u don't plan on wheeling it hard then DO NOT get a full time locker. It will handle like crap on the road (yes I know a lot of crazy wrangler people do it all the time). A selectable locker like ARB would be a lot of money for something that didnt get a lot of use.

The Detroit trutrac is a great option, works when u need it and drives on pavement great.

Pay someone to do your rear end unless you know someone that really knows his sh*%.

I'm pretty much a newbie when it comes to the lockers. With the DTT do I manually make it lock or is it like a LSD? Same question for the Powertraxx. From one description I read it sounded like the powertraxx functioned like a LSD.

Ajamant · **Posted:** Mon Sep 26, 2011 4:32 pm

The Detroit trutrac is a helical gear driven limited slip diff. No wearable parts to replace and automatically works when u need it. The only exception is if you have 1 tire completely off the ground it will not transfer the load. However you can "trick" the diff and apply a small amount of brake while accelerating and it will hook up.

I am not familiar with the powertraxx.

In the wrangler world the trutrac comes highly recommended and has seen some serious abuse by many people. When I lock I will have trutrac up front/rear unless I wanna drop the cash on a selectable locker like an ARB for the rear. If I was a serious rock crawler then I'd think about ARB front/rear or equivalent but that's a whole different ball game.

jnelson76 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 26, 2011 4:38 pm

Ajamant wrote:

The Detroit trutrac is a helical gear driven limited slip diff. No wearable parts to replace and automatically works when u need it. The only exception is if you have 1 tire completely off the ground it will not transfer the load. However you can "trick" the diff and apply a small amount of brake while accelerating and it will hook up.

I am not familiar with the powertraxx.

In the wrangler world the trutrac comes highly recommended and has seen some serious abuse by many people. When I lock I will have trutrac up front/rear unless I wanna drop the cash on a selectable locker like an ARB for the rear. If I was a serious rock crawler then I'd think about ARB front/rear or equivalent but that's a whole different ball game.

Awesome thanks! Sounds like a lot easier and cheaper option rather than replacing everything. The locker would get rid of the spider gears right? But I'd probably still want to replace the bearings? I'm just trying to figure out what else besides the locker I'd have to buy.

Oh not related, but this jeep does have the GDE tune already. I've owned the jeep for about 6 months.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 26, 2011 6:34 pm

jnelson76 wrote:

. The locker would get rid of the spider gears right? But I'd probably still want to replace the bearings? I'm just trying to figure out what else besides the locker I'd have to buy.
.

Yes a locker or DTT will get rid of the spider gears.You will need a new ring and pinion set also,OEM is the best but Yukon gears are very good also.Then a master install kit will be needed,make sure to get one that includes new ring gear bolts as they are a one time use only bolt.New axle bearings/seals would be a very good idea also since it's getting ripped aprt already.Basically everything inside the diff besides the axles should be repalced and replace the axles if were the axle bearings ride is heavily scored or under spec.

2006 rear-end issues

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