Ol' Blue is getting a new head gasket

bugnout · **Posted:** Sat Sep 07, 2013 7:22 pm

Got the passenger side of the engine taken down to the block in about 6 hours

Had a heck of time with exhaust manifold. SM is useless describing the details. I got the top 5 nuts off, the 2 on the ends, but took me an hour to find the other 2 and then the one in front of the turbo took me 20 minutes to get out alone. Mostly chasing tools. Almost convinced myself that it couldn't be done. Never realized how much 13 mm is used on this engine.

Tomorrow its injectors, timing cover and timing belt. I've got the Sealey tools. hopefully I'll make better time tomorrow.

Hexus · **Posted:** Sun Sep 08, 2013 12:28 am

13MM is used below the intake nearly as much as 10MM is used above it.

mark2m · **Posted:** Sun Sep 08, 2013 8:55 pm

I left the exhaust manifold on when I pulled my head. I was able to remove it by my self but needed an extra set of hands to reinstall. I didn't want to risk any damage.

bugnout · **Posted:** Sun Sep 08, 2013 9:57 pm

Did you have to remove the FCV to get the valve cover off?

Today I got to the threshold of getting the valve cover off. Its loose, but for some reason it wont come off. It seems to be caught on something on the drivers side, but for the life of me, I can't seem to find anything holding it up. The only step I skipped in the procedure was removal of the throttle cable assembly, which I'm pretty sure is only for the 2.5's.

Fuel rail is off, the only thing that is not off is the FCV. I've removed two of the mounting bolts, but don't see how to get to the other two.

thermorex · **Posted:** Sun Sep 08, 2013 10:41 pm

I did removed it, and if you don't have huge hands, you can drive a socket on the lower part of the elbow to unbolt the lower bolts (left hand between head and elbow, right untie bolt, left hand keeping socket in place). I used 1/4 drive with a small extension and a uv joint.

There must be some pic in this thread with a socket under the elbow: viewtopic.php?t=75479

I don't see what else can hold the valve cover, if you took out all those top bolts that secure it on the head. Good luck, it's a pretty tedious job, but definitely doable.

bugnout · **Posted:** Sun Sep 08, 2013 11:00 pm

Thanks, Followed that link all the way to Squeeto's glow plug thread to see how he got the back two bolts out. Guess its doable. just have to be creative. I'll dig in again Wednesday evening.

TJ2 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 2:51 am

Are you trying to get the inside two bolts that hold the elbow to the intake? Maybe I'm confused as usual.

I got everything apart from the top with a regular (not deep) socket and 1/4 in flex head ratchet. I got three of the bolts started back in. . . except for the inside forward bolt. Had to use Squeeto's from the bottom process (attached to a second pair of hands) to get it started.

I think I could get them all started and tightened with a 'close in' socket like this.

http://www.sears.com/mountain-1-4inch-d ... RECT=false although the bolts I'm picturing in my head are 8 mm

If you're talking about the 5 mm allen bolts that bolt the FCV to the elbow disregard the above

My project was just replacing the glow plugs.

bugnout · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 9:10 am

TJ2 wrote:

Are you trying to get the inside two bolts that hold the elbow to the intake?

although the bolts I'm picturing in my head are 8 mm.

Yep, those are the ones. I need to go buy a few more extensions to get to the engine side, forward bolt.

thermorex · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 11:39 am

bugnout wrote:

TJ2 wrote:

Are you trying to get the inside two bolts that hold the elbow to the intake?

although the bolts I'm picturing in my head are 8 mm.

Yep, those are the ones. I need to go buy a few more extensions to get to the engine side, forward bolt.

I'd get 1/4 extension and uv joint, maybe also a flex ratchet, so you may bend the handle if required. Sears has them, are a little pricey, but it's worth imo. I'm suggesting 1/4 since they can fit better in that insanely cramped space.

cmpbiker · **Joined:** Mon Mar 29, 2010 1:26 pm **Posts:** 62

I am stuck at the exhaust manifold removal. For the life of me I can't figure out how to get the two lower center nuts off. Am I supposed to take the turbo first?

papaindigo · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 3:12 pm

Cannot help you with the 2 problem nuts but feel I should caution you on turbo removal that the "jam" nuts on the 4 studs combined with soft metal studs can result in broken studs. Been there done that. If you do have to pull the turbo be sure to do at least an overnight penetrating lube soak of those studs/nuts. Otherwise it's not particularly difficult.

bugnout · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 5:35 pm

cmpbiker wrote:

I am stuck at the exhaust manifold removal. For the life of me I can't figure out how to get the two lower center nuts off. Am I supposed to take the turbo first?

I did not remove the Turbo. I apologize, I can't remember exactly what I did. To the best of my recollection, I think I got a ratchet wrench on it from underneath and then used a cheater bar to get it broken loose.

TJ2 · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 6:22 pm

thermorex wrote:

bugnout wrote:

TJ2 wrote:

Are you trying to get the inside two bolts that hold the elbow to the intake?

although the bolts I'm picturing in my head are 8 mm.

Yep, those are the ones. I need to go buy a few more extensions to get to the engine side, forward bolt.

I'd get 1/4 extension and uv joint, maybe also a flex ratchet, so you may bend the handle if required. Sears has them, are a little pricey, but it's worth imo. I'm suggesting 1/4 since they can fit better in that insanely cramped space.

Harbor Freight sells sets of 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 stubby flex head ratchets. They're about $20 or on sale for $10. I used the stubby 1/4 with short socket to remove and tighten mine. Putting them back in was the pistol. That's when I went with the mondo wobble extension setup (for the front inside only. Got a set of those on sale at HF. I never used to buy 'cheap' tools. These days that's about all I buy and most of them hold up to the demands I put on them.

When it came to snugging them down I went back to short socket and stubby flex.

good luck

bugnout · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 7:02 pm

bugnout wrote:

cmpbiker wrote:

I am stuck at the exhaust manifold removal. For the life of me I can't figure out how to get the two lower center nuts off. Am I supposed to take the turbo first?

I did not remove the Turbo. I apologize, I can't remember exactly what I did. To the best of my recollection, I think I got a ratchet wrench on it from underneath and then used a cheater bar to get it broken loose.

Correction, I used a 1/4 drive breaker bar (about 6 inches long) and a 1/4 inch 13mm socket. used a short pipe, cheater bar to increase leverage.

mark2m · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 8:52 pm

If you didn't disconnect the EGR tube where it connects to the FCV that is what is probably your hold up. I did end up removing the whole FCV assy when I did the job. I was concerned about breaking the studs for the turbo and manifold so like I said. I left it attached for removal and installation.

bugnout · **Posted:** Mon Sep 09, 2013 9:59 pm

mark2m wrote:

If you didn't disconnect the EGR tube where it connects to the FCV that is what is probably your hold up. I did end up removing the whole FCV assy when I did the job. I was concerned about breaking the studs for the turbo and manifold so like I said. I left it attached for removal and installation.

I think thats good advice, just a little late for me, as mine is already loose.

mark2m · **Posted:** Tue Sep 10, 2013 10:10 am

Ah I see. Better late than never. Lol

bugnout · **Posted:** Sat Sep 14, 2013 1:06 pm

Ok head is finally off. Need some help IDing the gasket. I think its a one hole gasket, but that would be unique as most of these engines were put together with 0 hole gaskets. Opinions?

The head looks good so far, just cursory look. All the rocker arms looked good, as well as the cylinders. Only evidence of a coolant leak I could find was at the front cylinder. No evidence on the head gasket itself

papaindigo · **Posted:** Sat Sep 14, 2013 1:20 pm

From the ID Parts website " The gasket size is stamped into a tab that is on the intake side of the engine. Look for a tab that has a part number stamping on it. On the rear-ward end of the tab may be some circular holes. The tab can have no holes, 1 hole or two holes."

bugnout · **Posted:** Sat Sep 14, 2013 2:48 pm

The tab with the circle and arrow in above picture is directly under the intake elbow.

I'll have to inspect it closer to see if a part number is stamped into it.

Ol' Blue is getting a new head gasket

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