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 Post subject: Crank Angle Sensor Replacement
PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 8:32 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2014 10:33 pm
Posts: 96
Location: South Carolina
So I'm going to ask about the CAS replacement since I cannot find anything on the search outside of someone talking about cooling the sensor.

1. I've gotten both heat shields off with lots of aggravation from the top. The issue is that the turbo downpipes is right in the way. The gas guys talk about getting the CAS out from underneath, but we've got the downpipes in the way.
So, can that weird clamp joining the turbo and the downpipe be loosened or removed so that the pipe can be moved slightly towards the passenger fender giving more room for CAS removal? If that's possible, it would also permit the heat shields to be replaced without too much effort I hope.


2. Also, does that sensor just come out easily? The gassers seem to be having trouble with the thing getting stuck and breaking off. I wouldn't want that to happen!!


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 Post subject: Re: Crank Angle Sensor Replacement
PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 8:36 pm 
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LOST Junkie

Joined: Sun May 01, 2011 2:27 pm
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Location: Milford, IL
It is so much easier to get at it from the bottom. Remove 1 heat shield. Then is a Allen head bolt, cant remember the size. Then disconnect the wire

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 Post subject: Re: Crank Angle Sensor Replacement
PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 9:38 pm 
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X2 on changing it from the bottom, that is the best way! Engine needs to be cooled off as you will be working right around the turbo exhaust down pipe. A metric allen head bolt holds the CPS in position, it requires either a 5mm or 6mm allen wrench to remove, then simply rotate the CPS back and forth while pulling on it and it will pop right out. It has one connector on the wires to the CPS that requires disconnecting and re-connecting. If you have some, put a little dielectric grease or white grease on plug-in connectors... :wink:
You can purchase one at Autozone, they have the best price, and the part in the Autozone box will be an OEM Bosch part...
Part Number: SU8492 ~$50 bucks...with a lifetime warranty!!!

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 Post subject: Re: Crank Angle Sensor Replacement
PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 9:50 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2014 10:33 pm
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Location: South Carolina
How on earth are you guys getting from underneath? That downpipe is so completely in the way you can't even get your arm in there? Are you loosening the downpipe from the turbo???

I had a hell of a time getting the two bolts off the dimpled heat shield.

WHAT'S THE SECRET????


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 Post subject: Re: Crank Angle Sensor Replacement
PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 9:58 pm 
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LOST Junkie

Joined: Sun May 01, 2011 2:27 pm
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Location: Milford, IL
I never thought that the downpipe was that much in the way. But it is a pain no doubt

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 Post subject: Re: Crank Angle Sensor Replacement
PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 10:03 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2014 10:33 pm
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Location: South Carolina
Maybe its my angle of approach. Laying under the car from the front, head towards the back? Still, can't get my arms between the downpipe and frame. No, not a weightlifter.

Can that downpipe be loosened and moved a bit?


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 Post subject: Re: Crank Angle Sensor Replacement
PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 10:16 pm 
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LOST Junkie

Joined: Sun May 01, 2011 2:27 pm
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Location: Milford, IL
Yeah just loosen the v band clamp and the down pipe can come off the turbo and that should give you more clearance

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2005 Crd Silver Limited- arps, rockers, 7v etechno's, egr deleted, v6 airbox, metal cac's. Yeti's stage 2 tune. Euro TC, Ram tcm, pml transmission pan, facet lift pump


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 Post subject: Re: Crank Angle Sensor Replacement
PostPosted: Fri Nov 18, 2016 10:21 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2014 10:33 pm
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Location: South Carolina
Awesome and thank you for all the explanations to both of you! I'll give that a whirl.


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 Post subject: Re: Crank Angle Sensor Replacement
PostPosted: Sat Nov 19, 2016 8:40 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 07, 2014 10:33 pm
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Location: South Carolina
Alright! Got it done. I removed the clamp from downpipe to turbo. Then it surprised me how easily the downpipe moved over. At that point, had plenty of room to loosen the CAS bolt and then undid the plug from the bottom. Still a pain in the butt. We worked from top and bottom. Got the bolts for the heat shield on from the bottom. We were taking them out from the top around that downpipe before I moved it.

I see why no one wants to go from the top. We had to remove the Provent and the radiator overflow. Once those were gone, plenty of room top and bottom. So, that's my take on this. No way could I get my hands in from the bottom. Just no room with the downpipe in the way.


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