At The Helm wrote:
Hokay so the KJ clevises with adapters do work after all! Apparently measurements vs real work don't always line up exactly
The clevises I built will also work but I'd much rather use the clamp-on factory clevises for ease of installation and shock servicing. In the pic there is still a little bit of shaft showing in the pic which is taken up by the spring perches.
Also went back to 12" springs but 450 lbs this time.
Im glad that worked out for ya. But yeah 475 is what I run. That combined with the stiffer rear spring (more than JBA or OME) and it rides like a magic carpet. Now you can add a cradle drop (9/16"-5/8" using stock bolts) and compensate the cradle drop with some clevis space. But now your getting into stuff that SOME FOURM MEMBERS SAY WOULDN'T WORK, but obviously does from what I have seen. Next set of JBA clevis I bend I will be throwing those POS in the garbage and going with the design that you came up with. If priced at 1000-1200 then you will be selling them like hot cakes.
My plans were to offer them in Fox or King shocks but I wasnt about to pay to be a vender and all of that mess. Just too much of a headache
Side note. Make sure you have a "inner lip" on that lower seat seat so the spring dosent slide off. And also you remember my old rear bumper? Well im in the process of beefing it up and mounting a winch. Maybe something you can look into if your interested in that crazy stuff.
Oh and something else. Those pressed KK clevis gives people extra 9/16" lift, (3/8" longer than cast clevis) so sell those bad boys and make some extra money.