Arctic_Libby wrote:
The UCA's are probably the most difficult part. Well, depending if you have a mounted spring compressor or not. But anyways, the passenger side UCA bolts arn't bad at all, the driver side ones are a little more difficult. You'll have to go to the driver side wheel well and take out the 10mm nuts to loosen up the steering rod. That will give you more room to get back to the back driver side UCA bolt. When you put the bolts back on tighten them up, but make sure you really tighten them when your rig is on the ground again. That way they are tight in a neutral position.
Other than that it's pretty easy going if you got the right tools and space. Plus, you're gonna re-fall in love with your libby once it's lifted.
Other than that it's pretty easy going if you got the right tools and space. Plus, you're gonna re-fall in love with your libby once it's lifted.
One of the Great things about The JBA 4" is that you don't need a spring compressor. The struts comes from JBA pre assembled. Yes the Drivers side UCA is a PAIN to install, just suck it up and try to figure out what works best. Be sure you have experience working with brake lines or take it to a shop. I took it to a brake shop and they had trouble adding the brake lines. I'm glad I didnt do that part myself. If by chance something goes wrong with your JBA brake line (like mine did), it will probably be cheaper to get new ones locally fabricated (and slightly longer) rather than bying new ones from JBA. And don't completely center the thrust angle with your track bar. Have it run about an inch or so off center line towards your passenger side (ie. away from the gas tank). If it is centered your drive shaft will hit your gas tank skid at full passenger/rear flex.
Congratulations on your new lift.
