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PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 6:20 pm 
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Jeepjeepster wrote:
Idk about that. Think of all the stress that is put on the case when you turn on a rock or anything other than ice. I just cannot see that front end holding up to a locker. I can see an LS putting less stress on it b/c when a tire gets up in the air, it will not let it spin as much. Thus reducing the amount of force the tire will have when it comes back down.


No offense, but I'm not interested in what you "think", I want facts backed up by people with first hand experience or by manufacturers.

tjkj2002 wrote:
When I was ordering my rear arb locker at 4wheelparts I was looking at the order book with the sales person and it listed a 27 spline air locker for a dana 30 which was in the KJ column(with the one for the 8.25 also)it had a * by it and on the bottom of the page it said next to the * "not recommend for the dana30 IFS used in the KJ's".I have heard (4wheelparts has installed) arb air lockers in KJ's and some poeple have had good luck and some have blown the front diff,but they will fit it's just the pinion that is different in the dana30a the ring gear is just the same as any dana 30's.


I have the ARB product guide and it has no asterick?? It has a comment mentioning requiring a thrust block and washers, and a 30 spline upgrade option?? Is this something I need to contact 4Wheelparts about? How many KJs have they installed ARBs in the 30a that they would have their own opinions about a problem Jeep doesnt even admit exists?

I'm not trying to being a jerk, I just like to back up major purchase decisions with facts and not heresay.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 07, 2006 6:27 pm 
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my .02 on lockers again
lock the rear of your KJ leave the front alone or go trutrac at most
when you lock the rear i would go first choice ARB second detroit soft locker third powrtrax
the detroit will be more road worthery than the powertrax because it has no slack and will be stronger offroad because it replaces the carrier and as far as the ARB you wont even know its there until you turn it on

limited slips alone front or rear or both are worthless if you lift a wheel and we are talking about a KJ wich has IFS so you will lift a wheel some times 2 or more feet off the ground and if you are trying to go up hill then e-breaking will only make it worse
any body who doubts this fact is welcom to come join us for a trail ride to see what i am talking about


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 11:04 am 
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Wow... so much misinformation I gotta speak up.

The D30A holds an RD100 just fine. Works like a champ and beefs up the center section by adding 2 extra pinion gears to your stock set up. Works better than the TT because you can turn it OFF when you don't need it, limiting wear on your oh so weak CV's. Lockers don't wear out carrier bearings.... Trac Tec makes a TT for the 8.25 now. They're great, I used to have one. If cost is an issue, grab one and enjoy it, especially if you're not wheeling very hard. They work great on wet and snowy roads... (Someone tell Trac Tec I just said nice things about them). The only issue with the True Trac and the 8.25 (unless they've fixed it) is that you have to grind your c-clips to get em back into the carrier. Not a big deal.

As for our stuff.... if you can afford it, it's the best. PowerTrax isn't a true locker. It's a drop in. They just replace the spider gears. Yes, they're easy, but they DO shorten the life of some drive train components. If I remember correctly, the TT is actually cheaper, too. The TT or a Detroit are full carriers and add strength without the selectablity. Both work great...much as I'd like to say other wise. The ARB is a full carrier, adds extra pinion gears for strength and is fully selectable. Strengthens the Diff on or off and increases life of your shafts and othe parts because of the afore mentioned on/off option.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 11:35 am 
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ARBSeth wrote:
Wow... so much misinformation I gotta speak up.

The D30A holds an RD100 just fine. Works like a champ and beefs up the center section by adding 2 extra pinion gears to your stock set up. Works better than the TT because you can turn it OFF when you don't need it, limiting wear on your oh so weak CV's. Lockers don't wear out carrier bearings.... Trac Tec makes a TT for the 8.25 now. They're great, I used to have one. If cost is an issue, grab one and enjoy it, especially if you're not wheeling very hard. They work great on wet and snowy roads... (Someone tell Trac Tec I just said nice things about them). The only issue with the True Trac and the 8.25 (unless they've fixed it) is that you have to grind your c-clips to get em back into the carrier. Not a big deal.

As for our stuff.... if you can afford it, it's the best. PowerTrax isn't a true locker. It's a drop in. They just replace the spider gears. Yes, they're easy, but they DO shorten the life of some drive train components. If I remember correctly, the TT is actually cheaper, too. The TT or a Detroit are full carriers and add strength without the selectablity. Both work great...much as I'd like to say other wise. The ARB is a full carrier, adds extra pinion gears for strength and is fully selectable. Strengthens the Diff on or off and increases life of your shafts and othe parts because of the afore mentioned on/off option.


Hmm. Too many acronyms and too much company acquisitions to keep things clear for us insurance salesman!

You said: "PowerTrax isn't a true locker. It's a drop in."

I'm wondering if those are two separate points. I thought Powertrax is a true locker because it locks both wheels, regarless of whether it's a drop in or not. The drop in means it's not any stronger than stock, since we're using the stock carrier. Right?

You said: "Trac Tec makes a TT for the 8.25 now."

this is where I'm confused. Tractech is now owned by Eaton, who also owns Detroit Lockers and also Richmond I think. The TT is Truetrac? If so, this is NOT a locker, as per their web site where they refer to it as a "gear type limited slip differential."

I wanted to buy a true locker for the rear on a budget. Perhaps wrongfully so, I didn't consider anything that was not a true locker since I have a trac-loc now that actually works well EXCEPT WHEN I lift a wheel off the ground. So it seemed to me that I'd have to either spend big bucks for air or electronic lockers, or spend slightly less for a mechanical locker that requires professional installation like a Detroit Locker, or get the budget minded Truetrax lunchbox Powertrax setup.

As for wear, unless it's switchable, all lockers will add wear/stress to the drivetrain and tires, right? I'm always very carefull now about applying throttle when turning, especially slow turns, so I'll continue to do so.

Please, feel free to correct any gross misconceptions I may have above. Again, my goal was to be able to keep moving forward, slowly, while I've got one wheel off the ground. It's my understanding that nothing will really do that but a locker. And I mean REALLY do it. Yes, I've managed to keep moving with my trac-loc, even have it on video, there was a lot of wheel spin on the part of that lifted tire. Whereas when I've watched Rubicons and other locked Jeeps do that, you couldn't tell that wheel was off the ground because it spun at the same speed as the wheel on the ground. THAT'S what I'm after (ON A BUDGET).

(Hopefully that long post didn't come off as preachy. It's more of a regurgitation of what I've learned over the last few weeks and I'm looking for confirmation. Please don't pee on my recently-ordered-but-not-yet-installed Powertrax! :roll: )

I'm going to start a new thread on how to drive with them, and also how/when and under what circumstances will the Jeep be able to keep moving or not. (ie, 2 wheels diaganol off ground, go or no go?)

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 11:45 am 
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Just call me man... I'll give you the low down and help you pick whats best... honest. You've still got the number, I'm guessing.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 11:48 am 
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What parts does the powertrax put stress on besides the axles and tires?

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 1:10 pm 
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The PowerTrax is only as strong as the carrier you put it in. You'll wear it (the carrier) out faster. By wearing, I mean the inner side of the actual carrier, not the bearings. KJ's don't seem to be too tough on them, though.

If you have other questions, just PM me. I don't mind dispelling a rumor here and there on the board, but questions like this are best left 1 on 1, ok?

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 4:04 pm 
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ARBSeth wrote:
Wow... so much misinformation I gotta speak up.


Yeah but the know-it-all's are so good at stating it like they know, arent they? :roll:

Thank you Seth.

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 4:24 pm 
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ARBSeth wrote:
...I don't mind dispelling a rumor here and there on the board...


THANKS!

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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 6:01 pm 
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From one Seth to another: I had my heart set on getting ARB air lockers front and rear and was disappointed to be told I couldn't do that to the Liberty so thanks for clearing that up!!


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 14, 2006 9:17 pm 
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Oh yea, Karen (Liberty1) had air lockers front and rear since 2002.

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 15, 2006 4:06 am 
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So did Btonco 1....he was the first

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 Post subject: Lockers for KJ's
PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 4:40 am 
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Hmmm, alot of peoplw right here......and a lot of people wrong :oops:

If your' going to put a proper LOCKER in the rear of the KJ, there's not much point doing anything to the front, should leave it alone I reckon. The rear's going to do all the work for momentum anyway. Putting an LSD in the front for ice / sand driving is a good idea, but you'd have to be doing it heaps to warrant it.....

I'm looking at rear lockers for my CRD at the moment. I was keen on the ARB but here in Australia i've just seen waaaaaay too many Compressor / electric / airline failures for the ARB product & i'm not just referring to KJ's. I dont want to have to stop & think about remembering to switch it on & off either, that's why I like the fully auotmated versions.........its like a 'plug & play' setup, or whats' that other saying..? " Set & Forget" ? I like that.......

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 Post subject: Re: Lockers for KJ's
PostPosted: Sun Jul 16, 2006 6:02 pm 
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OzLtd wrote:
Hmmm, alot of peoplw right here......and a lot of people wrong :oops:

If your' going to put a proper LOCKER in the rear of the KJ, there's not much point doing anything to the front, should leave it alone I reckon. The rear's going to do all the work for momentum anyway. Putting an LSD in the front for ice / sand driving is a good idea, but you'd have to be doing it heaps to warrant it.....

I'm looking at rear lockers for my CRD at the moment. I was keen on the ARB but here in Australia i've just seen waaaaaay too many Compressor / electric / airline failures for the ARB product & i'm not just referring to KJ's. I dont want to have to stop & think about remembering to switch it on & off either, that's why I like the fully auotmated versions.........its like a 'plug & play' setup, or whats' that other saying..? " Set & Forget" ? I like that.......



:?: :?: :?:

i have a front ARB in my TJ for about a year and 0 problems
i would not put one in the front of the KJ but the rear is going to happen next year
yes there is the rare chance that something could happen but i could get hit by a truck on my way home so i dont look at it like that
and just a few hours ago i put that front locker to the test
i was making little or no progress open then i locked it and drove right up


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 12, 2006 2:56 pm 
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ARBSeth wrote:
Wow... so much misinformation I gotta speak up.

The D30A holds an RD100 just fine. Works like a champ and beefs up the center section by adding 2 extra pinion gears to your stock set up. Works better than the TT because you can turn it OFF when you don't need it, limiting wear on your oh so weak CV's. Lockers don't wear out carrier bearings.... Trac Tec makes a TT for the 8.25 now. They're great, I used to have one. If cost is an issue, grab one and enjoy it, especially if you're not wheeling very hard. They work great on wet and snowy roads... (Someone tell Trac Tec I just said nice things about them). The only issue with the True Trac and the 8.25 (unless they've fixed it) is that you have to grind your c-clips to get em back into the carrier. Not a big deal.

As for our stuff.... if you can afford it, it's the best. PowerTrax isn't a true locker. It's a drop in. They just replace the spider gears. Yes, they're easy, but they DO shorten the life of some drive train components. If I remember correctly, the TT is actually cheaper, too. The TT or a Detroit are full carriers and add strength without the selectablity. Both work great...much as I'd like to say other wise. The ARB is a full carrier, adds extra pinion gears for strength and is fully selectable. Strengthens the Diff on or off and increases life of your shafts and othe parts because of the afore mentioned on/off option.


I dunno Seth. Wilkipedia and some experts around here say you're wrong. :lol:

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 13, 2006 12:33 am 
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I've heard that in order to fit the locker mechanism into the ARB carrier the carrier has to be made smaller which makes the carrier weaker. I've only heard this from one person, any truth to this ARBSeth?

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