If you're not up for spending $10k on a motor swap for a 4.7 that will be dangerous in a front end collision, you're pretty limited. As someone who used to run 335 hp and 400 lbs of torque out of the 3.7, I think I know a little about its limitations and abilities.
Your best option for everyday use with more power is to change your ring and pinion gears in the rear from 3.73s to 4.10s. Pull the front differential from a 4 cylinder for the front. Send your ECU to B&G Chrysler and have them program it, or get a spare ECU from Autocraft, have them write your VIN to it, and send that to B&G so you keep the stock ECU as a spare. If you have the sentry keys, you will need to get them programmed if you replace the ECU or it will only run for 2 seconds. Get a torque converter from APS Precision with the multiplier changed from 1.93:1 to 2.53:1. Get a stall around 2500 rpm. Also get the performance shift kit for the valve body. Do a cat-back exhaust, and upgrade your air intake. Some headers should also help, but I haven't ordered the JBA's yet, so I don't have details on them yet.
These upgrades will make your Liberty perform like a completely different vehicle. It will still be very reliable and usable as a daily driver that you depend on. If you still need more, your only realistic approach is nitrous. You will only want to run a wet 50 hp from 3000 rpm to 5500 rpm in 1st and 2nd. You will want an rpm window switch. Do not run it in 3rd. It is much harder on your engine than 1st and 2nd. Do not ever let it hit the rev limiter while on the juice. You should do all the accessories such as a bottle warmer, remote opener, gauges, blow-down tube, purge, and fuel pressure safety. One step colder NGK plugs will work fine. Do not use platinums. Oh, and be prepared to get your motor rebuilt. Racing is like off roading, you break things.
