Idea and Title by DarbyWalters...Write Up by oldnavy...Thanx to OldNavy for taking the time to gather all this info
^(1% inspiration)^......................^(99% persperation)^

This Thread will be CLEANED every few days so try to keep it relevant

CCV/Pressure Regulator:




What we call CCV, D/C calls a Pressure Regulator and serves to vent the engine blow-by gases into the intake for burning thus reducing emissions from the engine. This unit is also a pressure regulator to help ensure that turbo pressure does not over come the venting process. The problem with this idea is that there is little to no back pressue to the CCV, the hose is plumbed to the intake side of the turbo just down from the air cleaner and has a very small negative pressure or sucsion on the vent hose. The design of the PR is to also act as an oil catch and drain back system that will keep oil from the intake CAC (Charged Air Cooler, also called InterCooler) system. We are all witness to the sucess of this system. All that would have been required is to have left out the pressure valve and made a filter assembly about the same size with drain back to engine.

My knowledge of this type of CCV/PR system is from experience with VW TDI diesel engines and designing, building and selling a filter unit for the VW that was and is still a sucess, with 2 or 3 people contacting me monthly for a filter for their VW. Here is a link to Old Navy CCV filter http://www.stancomachine.com/CCV.htm with picture of the filter I designed and had built by local shop and with pictures of the OEM CCV or PR as VW also calls the device.

Now for the Elephant Hose Mod:



This is the Elephant Hose Mod at time of install.




This is after about 300 miles of mainly around town driving. I am sure that most will agree that this does not need to be in the CAC system.

INSTRUCTIONS: Remove the engine cover by unscrewing the Oil Cap first. Then the Engine Cover will just pull off by pulling up the front first and then the back. There will be four rubber mounts...make sure that any of the rubber plugs that remain on the posts are placed back on the Engine Cover. Next remove the hose from the CCV...it will just pull off. Plug the hose you pulled off and zip tie it near the winshield washer resevoir. Now attach your clear 4FT Long 3/4" ID hose to the CCV and run the hose to the driver side of the engine and down toward the ground. Zip Tie it along the way to keep it secure. You can also Zip Tie or Hose Clamp the Clear Hose on the CCV but not too tight. Pop the engine cover back on and screw on the oil cap...YOU ARE DONE! If you want to add a catch bottle at the end of the EMH, you can to catch any oil that might drip after collecting in the hose. It should not be a very big amount at all.
WARNING: This mod modifies your emmision controls and will cause it to fail Vehicle Inspection Requirements. Specifically it defeats the Crankcase Gas Recirculation function. Until a fix is found for the problems discussed above, it is a way to avoid some CCV/EGR/PR problems.


Provent Filter Mod:





Above is the Provent installed on another member's CRD. Notice as to how this set-up is shoe horned in and has a very hard to rig hose connecting system for the average person. This is a very good system and works great, the problem is it has to be maintained (not too much trouble) cost $140 to $200 depending on where you buy the filter and how much waste you have with the plumbing materials.

The downside is this unit was known to freeze up on VW TDI owners, as has the Elephant Hose Mod, when a lot of ice and snow on low ground clearance cars get splached on hoses or filter (depending on where mounted, VW's had room problem also) and when the moisture that comes out from short trips usage freezes up in hoses and or filter, as it will in a CRD under those conditions. Those who had this problem were people who just drove a short distance to work and parked the vehicle for the day in sub freezing weather. Then on return trip home same thing happens, but this time the drive doen't thaw all the moisture and blow it out so it freezes again during the night and after a few days of this it freezes up. When the venting is closed off it has caused seal failure and big repair bills. This can be easly avoided by letting the engine run enough to get moisture out of the crank case/oil system and regular checking the devices in the winter or parking in a heated garage as we do.

EGR & EGR Flow Control Valve:

Below is a picture from the FSC (Factory Sevice Manual) showing the location of the EGR & EGR FCV on the driver side of the vehicle.


The EGR FCV (also called a anti shudder valve) is located on the mouth of the intake manifold with the CAC hose connected to the EGR FCV. The FLV surves only one purpose and that is to ease in the shut down of the engine when you turn the key off, it also helps to prevent or lessen the effect of a diesel runaway engine. This runaway can happen if the turbo seals blow, you were to break a piston ring, or blow a hole in the top of a piston. Again as I said this FCV serves a dual purpose but most of use will only relate to the smooth shut down it provides the diesel engine.



The EGR is totally different beast and is not really related to the FCV/Anti shudder valve. The EGR valve is the main emissions control component in the exhaust gas recirculation system. The valve is located on the intake manifold, and opens a small passageway between the exhaust and intake manifold to allow a metered amount of exhaust to flow back into the engine. This reduces combustion temperatures and helps control the formation of oxides of nitrogen. The EGR valve is opened by an electronic solenoid on the CRD, while some mfg's use vacuum to operate the EGR. The valve should remain closed while the engine is cold and warming up, at idle or at full throttle. It should only open once the engine has warmed up and is running at part-throttle. If the valve sticks shut (or is disconnected), NOX emissions will soar but have little effect on the running of the diesel. If it sticks in the open position or fails to close all the way, it acts like a vacuum leak resulting in a rough idle, hesitation and possible stalling.

High EGR flow is required during cruising and mid range operation.
Low EGR flow is required during light loads and low speed operation.
No EGR flow is required for Idle, warm up and wide open throttle.

This is why the people who drove the VW TDI's at low rpm's or as some would say babied the engine for mileage had the manifolds clog up rather quickly (20k to 30k miles) and those who did regular full throttle runs or as some called it "drove it like they stole it" had far longer periods between intake cleaning, often getting 2 to 3 times the miles on car before the cleaning was needed. In otherwords when we cruise down the road at 68 to 70 mph trying to get max mpg's we soot the engine up the worst that at any other time.

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Founder of L.O.S.T.
2006 CRD Sport
Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph

I think you just hit the nail on the head. What we have may not be a CCV problem at all, but an air intake problem, specifically an air filter that's too small in area for this engine, even more so with some miles and dirt loading and/or rainwater on it. You mentioned on another thread that the VW filters were 50% larger in area. RFCRD and I both noticed sludge getting sucked into the top of our Provents, and saw it stop when we popped in fresh air filters. When the drain hose on my Provent developed a leak at the valve, I saw air being sucked up thru the standing oil and water at idle, again prior to changing the air filter.

Perhaps we need to revisit the idea of a higher flow air filter setup that doesn't compromise filtration ability, a filter setup with more surface area.

In other words, we may need a bigger boat (yes, they just replayed that movie the other night).

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Mitchell Oates
'87 MB 300D Diamond Blue Metallic
'87 MB 300D - R.I.P. 12/08
'05 Sport CRD Stone White
Provent CCV Filter/AT2525 Muffler
Stanadyne 30 u/Cat 2 u Fuel Filters
Fumoto Drain/Fleetguard LF3487 Oil filter
V6 Airbox/Amsoil EAA Air Filter
Suncoast TC/Shift Kit/Aux Cooler
Kennedy Lift Pump/Return Fuel Cooler

Found this today doing search on google for "Jeep Liberty Diesel air filters". Popular mechanics is tracking similar/same prob.

http://www.popularmechanics.com/blog/au ... 20996.html

WWV

For those who intend on running the Elephant Hose mod here is pictures of a container to prevent oil dripping on the frame and and your driveway or garage floor. Mine it just untill I get CAC system replaced and the CCV filter in place. Some will want to do this because it's cheap and easy to do I spent about $5 or less for hose and hose clamps, the bottle I count as recycled trash and no cost.



To make a catch jug take a 12 oz Coke bottle drill 1/4" holes all around the top section as seen here. Next remove the lower piece from bottle cap, the white thing here around the bottle neck to allow the 1" ID hose to go all the way on the mouth of the bottle. You will need about 1 1/2" of the 1" ID hose to pusg down over the mouth of the bottle. Next take the 3/4" to 3/4" hose splice barb and push a piece of 3/4" hose over the barb. All you want to do is just cover the length of barb and no further so it will slide into and bottom out on lip of the bottle. Once that hose is over the barb use a hose clamp to secure it to barb.



Next insert the barb with the short hose over it into the 1" ID hose on the bottle and install clamps.



Here is the bottle clamped to the Elephant Hose and ready to be hung over the side of the engine. This setup should be checked on some type of regular basis and emptied as required.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

Right now the Provent filter is the best legal, commercially available solution. Old Navy is in the development stages of a CRD specific vent filter, but it is not for sale yet. The open vent with or without Coke bottle is the illegal, temporary, cheap stopgap measure.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

Once installed and tweeked, my Provent has been trouble free. You will still have oil discharge to deal with. I have mine going into a sealed bottle behind the front bumper where it can be drained easily while changing the oil.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

Well after 17 days the tube and bottle has maybe 1/2 oz of oil collected, and it seems like most of the oil is collecting in the raised section of the tubing. Wonder if I am getting any drain back into the engine through the CCV?

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

One thing I was wondering: Does the pressure diaphram on the factory CCV "puck" interfere with or obstruct back-drainage?

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

No because the thing is always open unless it enounter back pressure, or as some would say the off/at rest position is open.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

Oldnavy:

On the TDI forums, some guys did cheapy, non-open to the atmosphere (aka NOT elephant hose) mods where they returned the hose back to the intake after leaving a dead endfor the drain. For a link with pics, go here:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=494568

I'm currently doing an elephant hose on the CRD (Used a clear hose,currently black as night), but cold weather will come (I know its hard to believe it, 100F in the shade here in CT). Freezing the ends could be an issue. And I just bought a 99 Jeta A4 tdi, and with all the hose laying around, I'm starting to think about these mods a lot.

Here's some questions:

1. Should we consider a slit to release pressure (or something more clever) in the elephant hose in case it freezes shut at the bottom?

2. Should we consider the above mentioned looped cheapy mod instead, if only to avoid freezing issues?

3. When I did an elephant hose on the Jetta, the check engine light went on. How do I kill that? Or should I consider a looped set-uplike the one up above?

2b.And has the elephant mod pulled a code on the your CRD? (I can't tell on mine, the light is already on as we wait and wait for EGR parts)

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD w/all the fixings
Elephant Hose, MAF (ORM), Amsoil Airfilter, nice when I get to drive it
1 EGRreplacement, but never again.
99.5 FrankenJetta TDI (R.I.P.): being turned into diesel hybrid!
99.5 Replacement Jetta TDI: deal of a lifetime, EHM, some other stuff

I never tried the slit, it might work. Since our EHM drapes over the top of the engine and not down in the wind behind the radiator as the TDI so we may not have the same problem, I would just watch it and see check every morning before starting engine and same in afternoon after it has sit all day. The looped mod would be fine, except it would probably require a filter to prevent dirty air from being sucked into intake and then that filter could freeze.

If I remember correctly you cam turn the CEL (light) off with VAG-COM or other reader tools like at Autozone and it won't come back on, but I am not sure. Our CRD hose does not have the sensor the VW has and no code will be set.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

Then I'll stick to the elephant hose on the CRD and keep an eye on it, only thing is, my wife drives mine (sound familiar?)

ps got the light to go away on the TDI w/the elephant hose. Wouldn't you know, just unplug the sensor!

_________________
2005 Liberty Sport CRD w/all the fixings
Elephant Hose, MAF (ORM), Amsoil Airfilter, nice when I get to drive it
1 EGRreplacement, but never again.
99.5 FrankenJetta TDI (R.I.P.): being turned into diesel hybrid!
99.5 Replacement Jetta TDI: deal of a lifetime, EHM, some other stuff

Sure does, I usually get the fill it up duty and have to sweat out the trip with fuel light on.

I was pretty sure there was a fix to the light, just could not remember for sure. I often suffer from CRS syndrome.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

I have just returned from a trip of 5000 miles + and I was really hard on the CRD. I performed the EHM about a week before I left. I used approx. 1 quart of oil. The highest altitude reached was 12,000 ft. Some of the grades were 7%+ and they were long. Winds were as high as 40 mph +. Oh, and I was pulling a trailer and the total load was about 2000 lbs.

We ran hard. Cruise Control will only go up to 86 mph. And some kind of vibration at 92 mph. 97 mph was the highest indicated on the trip.

Not one code set the whole trip. The EHM was constantly venting vapor and you could see it when the car was stopped and the wind wasn't blowing.

Hopefully OldNavy will get the new deally done or I am going with the provent. I will discuss more at the event in Missouri in October.

As much vapor as was comming out the EHM I didn't collect any appreciable amount of oil in the catch bottle.

I have nothing to base this on but gut feeling and 40+ years of engine work but, had I not done the EHM I think I would have had problems with the CRD with codes being set and I would not have been a happy camper.

The transmission/TC worked well but I still need to install the shift kit.

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Barr
06 JLL CRD 04/06/06 23K+ mi., Amsoil, Racor Fuel Filter, EHM, ORM, 3" SS exh from Turbo back, Fumoto, 245/70/16 Grabber AT2
Waiting for installation: TransGo 45RFE-HD2, S&B Air Filter, ProVent
06 Jetta TDI/DSG, RC1+, VAG-COM,
V-65 Drag Bike

Been thinking that there is some room for improvement with EHM bottle and here it is guys. I took some of the white floor polishing pad and cut it into strips and inserted shoved them into bottle. I did drill the holes in same place, but I think I will lower the holes on the next bottle so the fumes go through more filter material. The Jeep went of a 200 mile round trip today and will pull the bottle for inspection later this evening. What you guys think?



Here is the old bottle after about 4,000 + miles, and it only had about 2 or 3 ounces of oil in the bottle. It appears that most was blown out in vapor form.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

Yep my bottle looks just like yours. I am in the process of installing my provent and when I removed it yesterday it looked just like yours. Nasty!

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Barr
06 JLL CRD 04/06/06 23K+ mi., Amsoil, Racor Fuel Filter, EHM, ORM, 3" SS exh from Turbo back, Fumoto, 245/70/16 Grabber AT2
Waiting for installation: TransGo 45RFE-HD2, S&B Air Filter, ProVent
06 Jetta TDI/DSG, RC1+, VAG-COM,
V-65 Drag Bike

I checked the bottle late last night after the CRD got back from a 230 mile day of Interstate (approx 190 hwy) and city driving. The material looked good and no oil blown out all over the bottle as yet, I will check it again Sunday evening.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

With the filter material in the bottle, is there more chance of freezing problems in cold climates?

My first thought was yes, but I not so sure.

Where I live we probably only have 10 to 20 days in the winter that it will stay below freezing during the day, so I don't expect any problem. That said I think the little bit of moisture in the bottle would settle at the bottom and not be a problem, however it would require some simple and quick testing to be sure. Personally I don't thing it will be a problem because of where the bottle is located, up above the frame rail and close to the engine block.

Someone in a really cold climate should test it out some weekend for us too be sure. Small changes in where the hole's are located on the bottle and their size may have some effect also when in cold climate. I have eight 1/4" holes drilled about 1/2" above the straight portion of the bottle where it tapers toward the bottle mouth, however it may be better to have those holes mid-way down the bottle for winter weather in the cold climates. All the VW TDI's that did the EHM in cold climates had a problem with the hose freezing closed. However these hoses were exposed to the direct impact of air, ice and snow, because they had to hang down behind the radiator then outside of the lower engine covers. I think that was the real problem with those and maybe they would not have had a problem if the hose had been like ours, laying across the top of the engine, above the frame rail out of the exposed airflow and not being hit with frozen slush and snow.

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91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

OldNavy,
With the filler material in place, did you notice any
less "smoke" coming out from under the vehicle?

_________________
06 CRD LIMITED- Factory Belly Armor, Hooks.
EHM, MagnaFlow SS Cat Back, FS-2500, HDS 001 TStat, Some Gauges, PML Trans Pan, PML Diff Cover, Marinco Mod, FIA Blanket, Cooper Discoverer ATR 225/75, CTS 245/70, Front-JBA 2.25" C/Os, Rear-OME HD, JBA UCA, SS Brake Lines.