First Oil Change

CRuD Bucket · **Posted:** Tue Aug 08, 2006 8:00 am

When should I do my first oil change? I think I read a post suggesting 1500 miles (manual says 3250???). I hit 1005 miles yesterday. I've read with some cars that the factory uses a special break-in oil so I didn't want to dump it prematurely. Plan on running Rotella 5w-40 and doing my own changes. BTW, did 23.3 on the first tank and 24.4 on the 2nd with lots of highway driving and a heavy foot. Hope the economy gets better, but I know it's not a TDI (sigh). Any better economy with the Provent?

RTStabler51 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 08, 2006 8:12 am

I was bad boy and changed my oil at the 'normal' interval of ~6100 miles or so.

Fuel economy will get better with mileage. So far with ~17k on the clock (in 7 months) I've managed a best of just over 30 on one tank on the highway, and I'm normally in the 22s in DC city driving.

DZL_LOU · **Posted:** Tue Aug 08, 2006 8:22 am

CRuD Bucket wrote:

When should I do my first oil change? I think I read a post suggesting 1500 miles (manual says 3250???). I hit 1005 miles yesterday. I've read with some cars that the factory uses a special break-in oil so I didn't want to dump it prematurely. Plan on running Rotella 5w-40 and doing my own changes. BTW, did 23.3 on the first tank and 24.4 on the 2nd with lots of highway driving and a heavy foot. Hope the economy gets better, but I know it's not a TDI (sigh). Any better economy with the Provent?

You will get varying opinions on the first oil change. I changed mine at 3000 and subsequent changes at 6,000. But I would also note what the oil level is on your dipstick from the factory when the engine is stone cold before your first oil change.
This will just be a reference point as to what the factory filled it at. So when you either change it yourself or have the dealer do it helps.
You will also get varying opinions as to whether the dipstick is accurately marked. IMHO, I think the tip dipstick when fully inserted into the oil pan sits at more than a 45 degree angle. When you pull it out when the engine is cold, one side of the dipstick will be show a higher oil reading than the other. I always look at both sides of the dipstick tip and take an average.
But that's my 2 cents.

CRuD Bucket · **Posted:** Tue Aug 08, 2006 8:31 am

Thanks---I've been keeping an eye on the level during the break-in period and it hasn't "used" any yet. I read one post on here that went through a quart in the first 1000 miles. Any trick to getting exactly 6.4 quarts? I guess I'll see what kind of measuring thingy I can pick up at Wally World---I think they carry Rotella.

DZL_LOU · **Posted:** Tue Aug 08, 2006 8:37 am

CRuD Bucket wrote:

Thanks---I've been keeping an eye on the level during the break-in period and it hasn't "used" any yet. I read one post on here that went through a quart in the first 1000 miles. Any trick to getting exactly 6.4 quarts? I guess I'll see what kind of measuring thingy I can pick up at Wally World---I think they carry Rotella.

Wally World should carry it but I've found that it's hit or miss depending on the region and location of the Wally World. Rural Wally's tend to have no problem stocking it.
As to getting 6.4 quarts in it, I've found that a combo of pre-filling the oil filter and letting it soak in helps. Then filling the oil filter half way before screwing it on (tipping it at a 45 degree angle to screw it back on prevents from filling it completely. A shirt has been sacrificed in the empirical process).
Otherwise, I just use the dipstick to measure in conjunction with the number quarts I have used up to get me in the 6.4 quart ballpark.

RFCRD · **Posted:** Tue Aug 08, 2006 9:59 am

CRuD Bucket wrote:

Any trick to getting exactly 6.4 quarts? I guess I'll see what kind of measuring thingy I can pick up at Wally World---I think they carry Rotella.

I buy it in gallons (also available in qts). The side panel of the gallon jug has a see-through stripe with graduated marking. It's not that precise of a science, add 1 gal then 1/2 of the next gal plus @ half of the next quart. If you have problems seeing or remembering this spot on the jug, use a marker before you start pouring. Remember not to rely on the dipstick readings. Run the engine for a few minutes, shut down a let rest @ 15 min. When you check the oil several times, it will likely show @ 1/16 to 1/8 inch below full which is you true full level.

Do yourself a favor, stop at an auto parts store or the dealer and get a real oil filter. Walmart only has brand "F" which is stort-sized for some reason. It's a personal preference, I like the NAPA "Gold" which is made by WIX.

cerich · **Posted:** Tue Aug 08, 2006 10:24 am

DZL_LOU wrote:

CRuD Bucket wrote:

When should I do my first oil change? I think I read a post suggesting 1500 miles (manual says 3250???). I hit 1005 miles yesterday. I've read with some cars that the factory uses a special break-in oil so I didn't want to dump it prematurely. Plan on running Rotella 5w-40 and doing my own changes. BTW, did 23.3 on the first tank and 24.4 on the 2nd with lots of highway driving and a heavy foot. Hope the economy gets better, but I know it's not a TDI (sigh). Any better economy with the Provent?

You will get varying opinions on the first oil change. I changed mine at 3000 and subsequent changes at 6,000. But I would also note what the oil level is on your dipstick from the factory when the engine is stone cold before your first oil change.
This will just be a reference point as to what the factory filled it at. So when you either change it yourself or have the dealer do it helps.
You will also get varying opinions as to whether the dipstick is accurately marked. IMHO, I think the tip dipstick when fully inserted into the oil pan sits at more than a 45 degree angle. When you pull it out when the engine is cold, one side of the dipstick will be show a higher oil reading than the other. I always look at both sides of the dipstick tip and take an average.
But that's my 2 cents.

DC is of the opinion that the dipstick isn't always correct which is why the made a note of it in the system for the techs at the dealers.

DZL_LOU · **Posted:** Tue Aug 08, 2006 10:30 am

[quote="cerich
DC is of the opinion that the dipstick isn't always correct which is why the made a note of it in the system for the techs at the dealers.[/quote]

Hey, why don't we just get rid of it if DC says that it's not reliable? If you can't trust a dipstick, what can you trust on a vehicle? :lol:

no-blue-screen · **Posted:** Tue Aug 08, 2006 10:40 am

Just put in 6.5 quarts if you can't measure 6.4... a tenth of a quart isn't going to make a darn bit of difference.

CRuD Bucket · **Posted:** Tue Aug 08, 2006 10:47 am

Quote:

Just put in 6.5 quarts if you can't measure 6.4... a tenth of a quart isn't going to make a darn bit of difference.

I'll put that .1 toward my EGR. :cry:

retmil46 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 08, 2006 10:51 am

Your vehicle, your money, your choice, do whatever you feel comfortable with. As long as you're not exceeding what's listed in the owners manual, it all comes down to personal preference.

6 1/2 quarts works just fine.

As far as the Provent increasing fuel economy, no it won't - at least for now. Many thousands of miles down the road, where your intercooler and intake system would otherwise be gummed up with oil residue, then it'll be helping keep your fuel economy up where it should be.

Bovie · **Posted:** Tue Aug 08, 2006 12:49 pm

I plan on changing mine around 2000 miles and hopefully getting the dealer to use the shell rotella I bring in.

Davesub · **Posted:** Tue Aug 08, 2006 1:15 pm

I changed mine as soon as I bought it. Having worked at an engine rebuilder before I know all the dirt that ends up in a new engine somehow while building it. Maybe i'm just anal about it but a few $$$ for the oil and filter wont break the bank.

CRuD Bucket · **Posted:** Tue Aug 08, 2006 1:24 pm

Not worried about the cabbage. Hell, a fillup costs more than a synthetic oil change. Just wondered about dumping the "secret ingredients" they supposedly put in at the factory. I'm having lunch with a motorhead tomorrow and I'll post his take on this.

murf · **Posted:** Wed Aug 09, 2006 3:52 am

FWIW, I changed mine @ 842 miles. I too am of the opinion that quite a bit of 'junk' from the casting, milling, machining, assembly processes are swimming around in the oil that the filter may or may not get. Maybe I'm anal, maybe I'm paranoid. But I sleep better at night for having done it.

retmil46 · **Posted:** Wed Aug 09, 2006 10:54 am

murf wrote:

FWIW, I changed mine @ 842 miles. I too am of the opinion that quite a bit of 'junk' from the casting, milling, machining, assembly processes are swimming around in the oil that the filter may or may not get. Maybe I'm anal, maybe I'm paranoid. But I sleep better at night for having done it.

Took the words right out of my mouth. I've always done this with every vehicle I or my immediate relatives have owned, new or used, shortly after purchase. If nothing else, it gives me a baseline impression of how well that vehicle's been cared for, what kind of shape the engine's in, and how much attention I'm going to have to devote to maintenance. In short, it helps give me a feel for the vehicle, besides playing CYA and putting my mind at ease.

But again, your vehicle, your money, your choice, do whatever you're comfortable with.

CRuD Bucket · **Posted:** Wed Aug 09, 2006 3:19 pm

Motorhead (who drives a Cummins) says I can dump it anytime. I just picked up 3 gallons of Rotella T 5W-40, plus one quart and two filters. The gallons will give me 2 changes with 6 quarts and the additional quart will give me that .4 I need. He runs 6k, changes the filter, adds a quart and runs another 6k. That seems like stumbling over dollars to pick up pennies when you consider the price of a turbo, EGR, etc. but he says that's what the truckers are doing (at least in general terms). Does anyone know if the CDR's come with a "break-in" oil from the factory? I doubt the stealership would know...

longarm · **Posted:** Thu Aug 10, 2006 4:11 pm

Has anyone else been told by DCX that you MUST use the proper small copper gasket for the oil drain plug? I was told that I have to replace it EVERY time I change the oil. They are only a $1.53 apiece but that seems a bit funny. If anyone is interested, the dealer by my house states that they are the largest e-bay seller of oil filters for the CRD at about $32.00 for 6 of them. I can get more infor for anyone that is interested.

RFCRD · **Posted:** Thu Aug 10, 2006 5:29 pm

longarm wrote:

Has anyone else been told by DCX that you MUST use the proper small copper gasket for the oil drain plug? I was told that I have to replace it EVERY time I change the oil. They are only a $1.53 apiece but that seems a bit funny. If anyone is interested, the dealer by my house states that they are the largest e-bay seller of oil filters for the CRD at about $32.00 for 6 of them. I can get more infor for anyone that is interested.

Replacing the drain plug gasket every time is a racket. You do want to inspect it for damage every time and obviously don't want to loose it (don't drop the plug into the drain pan). I bought one for the toolbox just in case. The dealer didn't stock the part and had to special order it, like about everything on this rig it took a couple of days to get one. Walked away wondering what they would do is a customer came in for the 30 min oil change deal and they lost the gasket in the process.

spoonyG · **Posted:** Thu Aug 10, 2006 6:13 pm

The drain plug gasket is supposed to be a crush type. Crush too far and and you'll have an oil leak. Reuse and I assume you'll be very likely to have the same issue. I agree that it is not the best design on DCX's part, but I would follow the dealer recommendation and replace it everytime.

First Oil Change

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