This is true. When I took my CRD in for an EGR they didn't do the reflash. Called them up and raised hell and they said to bring it in. This time the mechanic came out and let me watch while he did the update.

He hooked up the tool to the Jeep and read off a software version #. Then he punched in my VIN and and software version and it listed the software version it should have. Downloaded that version to the tool, plugged it in to the Jeep, and about 45 mins later all was well. I haven't noticed any change from the old code (May 2005 build date) as I didn't have any tranny problems but I wanted the flash done in the hope I'll save something in the future.

All that to say, they don't type in a TSB and it spits out the software.

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Chris
Current:
2007 Steel Blue Metallic Grand Cherokee CRD Limited
GDE Eco Tune and DPF delete
CB Engineering DPF delete pipe
EHM

Past (sold to Mountainman):
2005 Patriot Blue Liberty CRD Limited

After the latest flash I had one issue--a rough shift from 2nd to 3rd. Called TransGo and the
tech on the hotline stated that the resistor in the TransGo kit changes line pressure, and
that maybe removing that would smooth out the shifts. Sure has been driving it for a day now
and just the kit without the resisitor is working very smooth. Anyone considering the TransGo
kit, you might want to leave the resistor off and try it without before splicing it in. Now all I
need is a really beefy TQ and I would be ready for 300,000 miles.

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2005 Silver Limited CRD 53,000 miles
GDE EcoTune / Trans tune
PML Differential Cover/Crankcase Mod
Tal & Hadas Grill Guard/TransGo Shift Kit
V-6 AirBox/Lunar Boost & EGT
Lund Cold Weather Grill Insert
OEM updated Filter Head, Cummins Lift Pump

Very interesting read. Basically, don't lug along at 1500-1800rpm like we all have been trying to do to conserve fuel. I wonder how much damage has been done by trying to maintain 1600rpm for the last 14000 miles.

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'05 CRD Sport born on 06/20/05, bought on 9/23/05, L.O.S.T. on 9/27/05 - modding ever since:

Daystar 2.0" Lift, P255/70R16 Revos, Boulder Bars, Reese Front Hitch w/9k Hooks, Poison Spyder Rock Ring, MOPAR Skids/Bug Shield/Roof Rails/Mats, WARN Hitch Shackle(Rear), 10k Hitch Hook(Front), Custom Tilt/Slope Meter, Ammo Box Mod, Rotella T 5W-40.

Yeah your right but the way the TCM is programed that is what happens if your not racing around. What they need to do is take a good hard look at the shift points and rpm's and get the ECM and TEM to raise the shift points without using more fuel. I've noticed at 60 mph once I've been past 63, the engine lugs way too much. My 93 VW Eurovan has a "Sport/Economy" switch on it's automatic. Older Cherokees on the AW-4 had the switch also. Then on the later ones they just took off the switch and gave us SPORT mode all the time. Fun to drive but lots of gas

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Atlantic Blue 06 CRD Limited (his)
Joined by a 2000 XJ Classic (hers)