If it's truly the EGR Valve and it's stuck then yes cleaning it should work, BUT no one has logged it as a successful DIY job. However, if the solenoid fails you might as well get a new EGR valve since they come as one component from DCX

_________________
2005 Black CRD Limited w/105,000 miles
Mann Provent 200, Airbox Mod, ORM Mod
New 545RFE, TC & Redesigned pump @ 25,020 miles
New EGR Flow Control Valve @ 25,020 miles
New Transfer Case input/output seals @ 32,787 miles
SEGR Kit @ 52,000 miles
SunCoast TC and Transgo Shift Kit @ 52,000 miles

The issue has more to do with the time investment to change the valve. You won't be a happy camper if you teardown, clean, then reinstall a valve and discover it's defective and have to start over. Still have a hunch these valves will eventually become available already rebuilt with a core exchange. At the present, everything is warranty work so there is no market demand for rebuilds.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

The biggest problem is that the CRD in the Liberty will not be returning, so it will not be in anyones interest (except ours) to get a fix. The new Diesels will have PM and Urea hardware. Our problem, even if we could add one of these fixes...PM and/or Urea...is getting by the "brain" of the KJ.

It almost seems worth it to run the EHM into the exhaust just after the muffler to get rid of that "clog fest". Then find a way to block or clean up the EGR issue.

I just don't think anyone out there is going to help us in this regard. If I could add a ParticleMatter catch and then the Honda Two Stage Catalytic Device a few years down the road ( produces ammonia which changes NOx to water ), I would be pleased.

_________________
Founder of L.O.S.T.
2006 CRD Sport
Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph

I was going to say the same thing in regards to our low production numbers. Jeep has produced over 200,000 KJ models each year since inception, but only about 11,000 of us are diesel and since our US Emissions requirements are unique, there won't be much help from overseas applications of the KJ CRD.

There is not and will not be enough market demand (in the eyes and wallets of DC and others) to justify rebuildables with a core exchange.

_________________
'05 CRD Sport born on 06/20/05, bought on 9/23/05, L.O.S.T. on 9/27/05 - modding ever since:

Daystar 2.0" Lift, P255/70R16 Revos, Boulder Bars, Reese Front Hitch w/9k Hooks, Poison Spyder Rock Ring, MOPAR Skids/Bug Shield/Roof Rails/Mats, WARN Hitch Shackle(Rear), 10k Hitch Hook(Front), Custom Tilt/Slope Meter, Ammo Box Mod, Rotella T 5W-40.

What I think is funny, I read somewhere that the Euro 2.8LCRDs will have a PM catch this year. The reason we can not have them is that you need to service them every 50,000 miles...and by EPA rules, any device must be able to stand alone for 100,000 for approval ( or close to that ). Instead we get an EGR device that doesn't last 10,000 in some cases but it is the approved method...that makes sense!

_________________
Founder of L.O.S.T.
2006 CRD Sport
Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph

GM Duramax diesels also have an EGR system very similar but understandably larger than the one on the CRD. Interestingly, owners of these vehicles have basically addressed most of the recirculation problems on their trucks by 1) blocking off the exhaust inlet to the valve, 2) leaving the solenoid hooked up so that the valve will activate and 3) selectively "fooling" the MAF by altering the electrical circuit to from the EGR to the MAF so that the ECM thinks that "all is OK". I converted mine just after I purchase the truck and have been running without problems for almost 40K mi. The trick on this is fooling the ECM. I visited with the individual that produced the electrical bypass circuitry and he indicated that he would participate in helping to solve this one too. Someone needs to to have a service manual schematic of the circuitry and figure out what is happening through the ECM, MAF, and EGR and then see if we could make the EGR fooler that would function as it does in the Duramax. It took me ~ 1hr. to do the mod on my truck and access to the components was admittedly a challenge. I would be happy to participate but I am neither a machinist nor particularly good with electrical/electronic dissection and re-engineering.

doug

Ok, with the EGR cylinoid unplugged, is the EGR valve open to allow exhaust gasses to pass through or is it closed?

On startup doesn't the computer measure the ohm resistance to the EGR cylinoid to verify it's connected?

Would unplugging the EGR cylinoid automatically through a cell light?

I thought about trying this I'm having the F31 reflash done anyway and that will clear any cell light. I could always plug it back in before the trip to the dealer.

_________________
'92 XJ Cherokee -

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/catherine.anderson/

I don't know about the CRD, but in the Duramax, the method to ensure that the EGR is closed on unplugging the solenoid is as follows: crank the engine after sitting over nite to ensure that it is cold. Immediately shut it off. On start up with the engine cold, the EGR will close. It opens only after the exhaust gas and the engine heats. Once the solenoid is unplugged, the EGR will remain closed. This did throw CEL but, once it is plugged back in, the CEL will clear after several start up cycles. I ran my GMC for about 2000 mi like that before I installed a blocker plate between the exhaust system and the valve.
D

Doug,

I'm all for supporting your efforts, and will help in whatever fashion needed. What specifically do you need?

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty CRD, Provent CCR, 2.5" lift

Did you just live with the CEL on???? That would almost seem a viable option.

_________________
2006 Libery Sport CRD, Lt Kakhi, nicely equipped
*****GDE Hot Tune at 38,879 miles
*****Stock TC.....for the time being!!

I think I could live with the cel on. Maybe scan it every month or two to see if any new codes had shown up.

If you do simply unplug the egr, what are the implications for the flow control valve? Does it still function, and posibly prone to future failure....does it even matter what the valve does if the egr is unplugged?

As to the CEL in the duramax, it seems that there were two versions produced in the 05 year model. There was one for CA, NY and the northeast that were very specific and sensitive regarding EPA issues (fancy that). On this model, if the EGR solenoid was unplugged, a CEL lit up. I live in GA and obviously got the "not so sensitive" version of the Dmax. While the EGR was unplugged, no obvious CEL was lit. However, if I used a scan program to look for fault code, the EGR code came up, which I frankly didn't worry about. As I stated previously, after a series of start up cycles the code will clear if the problem has been remediated. I decided that, in the event that I needed to take it in to the dealer for service, I would rather them not find a fault code for the EGR system. That is why I installed the "finger stick" (the electronic/electrical bypass circuit- nick named for the handle of the guy in PA that worked out the circuitry), and the EGR blocker plate. As of right now, no exhaust gas is going into my intake (thus no soot contamination or heat associated with the electrical controls of the EGR system), the EGR valve works just like it always has controlled by the ECM, and the MAF thinks that all is right with the world. I have had this vehicle into the dealer and as far as I know, they routine diagnostics run by the GM techs are "blind" to the modifications that I have made. I can assure you that I am one of probably 1000's that has done this mod on the LLY Duramax. As was stated previoulsy, Oil + soot + heat + problems in any engine especially diesels. I emailed John ("Fingers") right after I got my CRD and he indicated that he would be willing to advise us how to re-engineer this animal as he had done with the Dmax. Fingers actually produced these bypass devices for sale (probably more missonary work as opposed to a significant income producer). He obviously has a GM truch and I am sure that he built the first one for his truck. I doubt that he has a CRD and if he is involved, there would doubtless have to be some method to reimburse his efforts and expertise. I would think that if we could get a CRD service manual and follow the electronics and circuitry, that there would be a probablility of duplicating the EGR blocker effort in the CRD like was done in the Dmax. After all, these automobile companies aren't that different or creative. Looks like all of them are just using a different species of the same technology.

Doug

Here is a picture of my EGR that failed at 15,000 miles that is relative clean compared to the VW EGR below it that was taken off a car driven to one of my GTG's, cleaned and put back in service and driven home.





I have got to call a friend and ask about how big the TDI EGR is compared to CRD EGR, I think I remember it being bigger then ours.

_________________
91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

Comparatively speaking that looks just about the same in terms of soot which the 3,000 mile failed EGR I started the thread with!

I wonder if the solenoid is failing?

_________________
2005 Black CRD Limited w/105,000 miles
Mann Provent 200, Airbox Mod, ORM Mod
New 545RFE, TC & Redesigned pump @ 25,020 miles
New EGR Flow Control Valve @ 25,020 miles
New Transfer Case input/output seals @ 32,787 miles
SEGR Kit @ 52,000 miles
SunCoast TC and Transgo Shift Kit @ 52,000 miles

That was my guess. As you can see the VW EGR was a LOT worse then ours, I don't remember if the car had CEL but it was running, just not able to pull full RPM's. After cleaning EGR and the intake it was like a new car.

_________________
91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine

The tech who worked on my CRD recently said it was sooted up pretty bad and told the wife she needs to get the RPM's up every so often to help alleviate this. Personally I see no valid reason for letting that crap into my engine.

The gunked-up EGR I saw from a Detroit Diesel bus engine was in the same condition as the VW valve in the photo (so were the VGT blades) and what I would expect to see with a failed valve. I know our bus mechanics now clean and reuse these parts as they fail with these engines are out of warranty.

That solenoid probably has internal proximity switches or potentiometers to signal the ECM on valve position. ECM systems frequently use that type of technology (resistance) thus I could understand all kinds of weird outcomes based on changes in heat in the valve.

_________________
2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

That stuff is so "wet" looking( at least for the TDI VW )...it seems like it has to be due to improper oil and/or bad fuel to get that bad in 3000 miles...or the computer is running too rich...or something. There has to be a reason that it is happening SO FAST! I guess the combination of the gunk that the EHM shows is going back into the air mixture, the soot that is being multiplied by that same stuff, a computer that is maybe too rich and an inadequate EGR Valve Body...It is no wonder...

_________________
Founder of L.O.S.T.
2006 CRD Sport
Mods: GDE Hot Tune w/ 364#@2000rpm/Air Box /3" Str8 Exhaust/ASFIR Alum Skids/245-75R-16 Cooper STT PRO/OME LIFT w/Clevis & 4 Spring Isos/AirTabs/Rigid 10" S2 LED/4xGuard Ctr Matrix Bumper
Drag Strip:Reac=.1078_60ft=2.224_1/8=10.39@64.8mph_1/4+16.46@80.8mph

I hope he was refering to Jeep EGR picture not the VW picture. I don't remember how many miles the VW had on the clock, but I think it was 70k to 90k mile range. The CRD EGR actually looks cleaner then my VW did at about the same mileage.

I really think EGR failure is strictly elecrical and not even related to soot, I did not see any gunking up as I had expected. I guess the system had self cleaned what little it had and got rid of the gooy stuff after I did the EHM that took the oil out of the picture. Speaking of EHM and oil in CAC, we could see so trace of back flow soot in the CAC hose that attaches to FCV but not a trace of oil.

_________________
91 MB 300D 2.5L Turbo. Her's

05 MB E320 CDI. Mine