Installation of my Rustys lift

Science_Guy · **Posted:** Sat Oct 07, 2006 4:06 pm

I would like to say a HUGH thanks to Eddo and Moose for all the help with the installation of my Rusty's Lift. The installation took just over 3 hours and was rather uneventful (minus the shop light thing). I LOVE the results and the ride is better then stock. I have yet to experience the rumored knocking from the rear shocks.

Here are the details: 2004 KJ
Front gain was 3 3/8 inches
Rear gain was 3 inches

Materials were:
2.5 Rustys Coil Lift $456+shipping
6 2" conduit lock nuts from the hardware store $0.99x3
4 upper rear spring isolators from the Jeep dealership $12x4

Preinstall Front

Rustys Springs next to Stock Springs

Rusty Assembled next to Stock Assembled

After Install Front

As expected the front was the most work. Eddo had an air drill and spring compressor so was able to make quick work of the front springs. Moose showed up just in time to lend a hand for the brute force to get them into place. We added 3 of the conduit lock nuts to both sides on the front. This is basically the same as a clevis lift but just added the nuts to that extra assurance.

Stock Rear

Rustys Springs next to Stock Springs

Rear Springs Installed

For some odd reason, I guess I forgot to get a shot of the rear with the shocks installed. I guess I was getting excited at that point to test it out. We added two upper rear spring isolators on each side of the rear.

Lower Ball Joints after installation

I drove home which is about two hours and as I said, the ride was better then on the ride there. I did not hear anything from the rear shocks and I drove the entire way with the radio off listen for any sound. I will be taking it for an alignment after a week or so. I am very pleased with the results so far and am really looking forward to my first trip to the trail. Thank you again Eddo and Moose for all the help. I could have never done it without your help (or it would have cost me more then a 12 pack of Honey Brown).

FastTRX · **Posted:** Sat Oct 07, 2006 5:31 pm

Looks awesome...congrats on the lift!

One question though, you said you used the lock nuts on the front to act like a clevis lift...does this mean you gained on top of the +2.5" gained from the lift? How does this work? I've read a little about the clevis lift but am still a little lost as to how it works. Are you adding height to the shocks/springs to immitate a lift on top of what you've gained from the shocks/springs of the lift? Nice job...can't wait to hear how you like it out on the trail!

Science_Guy · **Posted:** Sat Oct 07, 2006 5:37 pm

FastTRX wrote:

Are you adding height to the shocks/springs to immitate a lift on top of what you've gained from the shocks/springs of the lift?

Yes... That about sums it up. There are several post about it if you do a search but you nailed the basic idea. I choose to use the nuts to ensure they were the same size and to give myself some insurance if there is some minor slipage.

moose · **Posted:** Sat Oct 07, 2006 5:40 pm

I got an alignment after and it made the ride even better. I missed the Honey Brown thing - that must be why Eddo was making sure I got to my son's football game... :wink:

FastTRX · **Posted:** Sat Oct 07, 2006 5:44 pm

Science_Guy wrote:

FastTRX wrote:

Are you adding height to the shocks/springs to immitate a lift on top of what you've gained from the shocks/springs of the lift?

Yes... That about sums it up. There are several post about it if you do a search but you nailed the basic idea. I choose to use the nuts to ensure they were the same size and to give myself some insurance if there is some minor slipage.

Hmm...interesting. I guess I didn't know you could do that on top of the lift. I learn something new on here everyday.

moose · **Posted:** Sat Oct 07, 2006 5:53 pm

FastTRX wrote:

Science_Guy wrote:

FastTRX wrote:

Are you adding height to the shocks/springs to immitate a lift on top of what you've gained from the shocks/springs of the lift?

Yes... That about sums it up. There are several post about it if you do a search but you nailed the basic idea. I choose to use the nuts to ensure they were the same size and to give myself some insurance if there is some minor slipage.

Hmm...interesting. I guess I didn't know you could do that on top of the lift. I learn something new on here everyday.

get some of those spring isolators for the rear and the lock nuts and we could do a real cheap 1" lift (or so)...

FastTRX · **Posted:** Sat Oct 07, 2006 5:57 pm

Really?? I was thinking this myself but I had plans to do a Frankenlift later on down the road. 1" over what I have now and I plan on tires soon would help greatly on the trail I imagine. The Badlands run w/ you guys will be my first real wheeling experience but I'm sure the 1" could help. Material cost doesn't sound like it's a problem at all!

How hard do you think it would be to do this on my own? I wouldn't need a spring compressor or anything like that would I? I haven't really read up that much on the clevis lift yet.

elephantrider · **Posted:** Sat Oct 07, 2006 6:13 pm

you wouldnt need a spring compressor, but you would need to basically remove the strut assembly, which is a little bit of work.

you could put 6 conduit washers on each side of the front, it would give you quite a bit of lift for little $$

Science_Guy · **Posted:** Sat Oct 07, 2006 6:17 pm

FastTRX wrote:

How hard do you think it would be to do this on my own? I wouldn't need a spring compressor or anything like that would I? I haven't really read up that much on the clevis lift yet.

Like with most of these jobs, it is not hard with the right tools and a buddy to help. I would think with a floor jack, two jack stands, a 2x4, and a buddy, you could do the job easy. I say that after watching Eddo and Moose do mine. I prob would have had trouble if I did not have the chance to watch how it should be done. There were several tricks about where to put the jack, when to use the 2x4 as a lever, and so on that made the jobs much easier.

Here is a better photo of what we are taking about...

And yes, you would have to remove the strut assembly. A few hours work...

moose · **Posted:** Sat Oct 07, 2006 6:28 pm

with your location, you should see if any of the chicagoland crew could help. looks like for 30-40 buck you could get a lift going...

raceinfan · **Posted:** Sat Oct 07, 2006 6:30 pm

NOW we have to see the whole finished product or gettin down & dirty as it's meant too :twisted:

FastTRX · **Posted:** Sat Oct 07, 2006 6:32 pm

moose wrote:

with your location, you should see if any of the chicagoland crew could help. looks like for 30-40 buck you could get a lift going...

Which would be awesome! I have enough in payments right now to allow for a set of MTs or ATs and I was going to get them before the lift. Like I said before, I plan on the Frankenlift, but it's a plus because like you said, for only 30-40 bucks I can have a lift and then later install the Frankenlift to it and be good to go!

There's a few Chicagoland guys that may have some experience doing this...I guess I'd have to add in the cost of the "Adult Beverages" on top of the 30-40 dollars for the help... :lol:

FastTRX · **Posted:** Sat Oct 07, 2006 6:35 pm

Science_Guy wrote:

FastTRX wrote:

How hard do you think it would be to do this on my own? I wouldn't need a spring compressor or anything like that would I? I haven't really read up that much on the clevis lift yet.

Like with most of these jobs, it is not hard with the right tools and a buddy to help. I would think with a floor jack, two jack stands, a 2x4, and a buddy, you could do the job easy. I say that after watching Eddo and Moose do mine. I prob would have had trouble if I did not have the chance to watch how it should be done. There were several tricks about where to put the jack, when to use the 2x4 as a lever, and so on that made the jobs much easier.

Here is a better photo of what we are taking about...

And yes, you would have to remove the strut assembly. A few hours work...

That was my next question I was just going to ask, where you added the washers, above or below the shock clevis...what timing science_guy!!!!

I just went out and did a little research and took a look under my KJ. I figured that was where you added the nuts but I wasn't quite sure. Thanks for adding the pics...helps out a bunch! :wink:

Now that doesn't look bad at all...but maybe I'm speaking too soon!

Science_Guy · **Posted:** Sat Oct 07, 2006 6:42 pm

FastTRX wrote:

Now that doesn't look bad at all...but maybe I'm speaking too soon!

Removing the spring assembly can be a bear. This is where a "moose" can in very handy. That, and a lions share of penetrating oil. OH My!

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Sat Oct 07, 2006 9:35 pm

Science_guy, can you give me a pic of your upper balljoint when the front is drooped 100%? Do you have any Upper balljoint contact?

Skyjump136 · **Joined:** Tue Jul 05, 2005 6:50 pm **Posts:** 1633

Quote:

And yes, you would have to remove the strut assembly. A few hours work...

15 minutes if you're quick...you don't need to remove the strut assembly to do this. You just need to get the clevis out of the way, but the entire strut assembly can stay right where it is. :wink:

moose · **Posted:** Sun Oct 08, 2006 1:08 am

Jeepjeepster wrote:

Science_guy, can you give me a pic of your upper balljoint when the front is drooped 100%? Do you have any Upper balljoint contact?

he has about 1/8th" of room. And you can look at the midwest/dayton lift party thread to see the side bump stops i needed to add to the frankenlift to keep the UBJ off the strut springs.

FastTRX - don't worry about the cost of the labor. people aren't doing it for that. if you can't swing something on the spot, make up for it at a later time. Eddo did my lift for some bbq at a local joint after the install, and the skink sliders for a few beers and a cool center punch. Anytime I help, I just want someone to "pay it forward".

also, as was mentioned, the strut stays in place, you just need to drop the clevis to to this - 2 jacks, 2 jack stands, 1 5' 2x4, and some wrenches and you're good to go (plus the spacers). A moose helps too, but others here at LOST have more skill and require less brute force...

corwyyn · **Posted:** Sun Oct 08, 2006 2:36 am

When I was trying to install my lift last weekend we found an easy way to get the clevis spread for removal/installation. Go down to your favorite home improvement store and get yourself a long 1/4" bolt (thread all the way down, about 4-6" will do nice) and some nuts and large fender washers. What you want to do is get the bolt/nuts/washers into the openings on the top portion so it looks like this:

Then you take a pair of wrenches and slowly turn the nuts outward to spread the top of the clevis apart. Pull it off, do whatever you need to do, then put it back on. Loosen the nuts, remove the bolt/nuts/washers, and continue assembly. I'll try to remember to get pictures next time I go to install the lift, hopefully Sunday (today). Beats the heck out of using a pry bar to spread the top of the clevis...

Eddo · **Joined:** Thu Jul 07, 2005 7:01 pm **Posts:** 1214

Something you might want to check FastTRX.

I'm not sure if the 2" lock nuts will work for you.

If you look at the stock strut there are two lips on each side that support the clevis from moving up. However, on the OME struts we used in the lift the lip is much larger. The 2" lock nuts might just slide up and over the lip on the stock struts.

However, alot of people including me have done a clevis lift without using lock nuts or spacers. Just make sure you get the clevis bolt nice and tight. It calls for 100lb-ft of torque so if you get it that tight you should be fine. I just used a nice size breaker bar and get it nice tight. Never slipped.

I doubled checked each side on Science Guy's jeep and he had just about a 1/8" before the ball joints would touch the spring.

Video Guy · **Posted:** Sun Oct 08, 2006 9:32 pm

But where are pics of the finished product :?:

Don't leave us hanging, ya tease!

Congratulations on what sounds like a relatively painless install.

Installation of my Rustys lift

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