Installation of my Rustys lift

FastTRX · **Posted:** Sun Oct 08, 2006 11:20 pm

Eddo wrote:

Something you might want to check FastTRX.

I'm not sure if the 2" lock nuts will work for you.

If you look at the stock strut there are two lips on each side that support the clevis from moving up. However, on the OME struts we used in the lift the lip is much larger. The 2" lock nuts might just slide up and over the lip on the stock struts.

However, alot of people including me have done a clevis lift without using lock nuts or spacers. Just make sure you get the clevis bolt nice and tight. It calls for 100lb-ft of torque so if you get it that tight you should be fine. I just used a nice size breaker bar and get it nice tight. Never slipped.

I doubled checked each side on Science Guy's jeep and he had just about a 1/8" before the ball joints would touch the spring.

So it's possible to lift the Clevis a 1/2"-1" just lifting it and tightening the bolt?? This would be cool but I'd have to wonder how long it would take before it loosened up and slipped down. I'll have to look at the KJ tomarrow and check it out. This definitly sounds do-able w/ the help of dad. Thanks for the tips everybody.

Eddo · **Joined:** Thu Jul 07, 2005 7:01 pm **Posts:** 1214

FastTRX wrote:

Eddo wrote:

Something you might want to check FastTRX.

I'm not sure if the 2" lock nuts will work for you.

If you look at the stock strut there are two lips on each side that support the clevis from moving up. However, on the OME struts we used in the lift the lip is much larger. The 2" lock nuts might just slide up and over the lip on the stock struts.

However, alot of people including me have done a clevis lift without using lock nuts or spacers. Just make sure you get the clevis bolt nice and tight. It calls for 100lb-ft of torque so if you get it that tight you should be fine. I just used a nice size breaker bar and get it nice tight. Never slipped.

I doubled checked each side on Science Guy's jeep and he had just about a 1/8" before the ball joints would touch the spring.

So it's possible to lift the Clevis a 1/2"-1" just lifting it and tightening the bolt?? This would be cool but I'd have to wonder how long it would take before it loosened up and slipped down. I'll have to look at the KJ tomarrow and check it out. This definitly sounds do-able w/ the help of dad. Thanks for the tips everybody.

Exactly. Never had it slip down on me. Just make sure it is nice and tight. You have to disconnect the sway-bar link and upper ball joint to bring it down, but that is it.

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Mon Oct 09, 2006 8:04 am

I have thousands of miles on road and many wheeling miles w/ No slipping of the clevis. Many others have done the same w/ no problems. Using the spacers is a fine idea though and can't hurt.

I smell a move of this thread to tech, some good info here. :wink:

corwyyn · **Posted:** Mon Oct 09, 2006 2:26 pm

FastTRX wrote:

Eddo wrote:

Something you might want to check FastTRX.

I'm not sure if the 2" lock nuts will work for you.

If you look at the stock strut there are two lips on each side that support the clevis from moving up. However, on the OME struts we used in the lift the lip is much larger. The 2" lock nuts might just slide up and over the lip on the stock struts.

However, alot of people including me have done a clevis lift without using lock nuts or spacers. Just make sure you get the clevis bolt nice and tight. It calls for 100lb-ft of torque so if you get it that tight you should be fine. I just used a nice size breaker bar and get it nice tight. Never slipped.

I doubled checked each side on Science Guy's jeep and he had just about a 1/8" before the ball joints would touch the spring.

So it's possible to lift the Clevis a 1/2"-1" just lifting it and tightening the bolt?? This would be cool but I'd have to wonder how long it would take before it loosened up and slipped down. I'll have to look at the KJ tomarrow and check it out. This definitly sounds do-able w/ the help of dad. Thanks for the tips everybody.

If I remember correctly you don't want to do more than a 1/2" clevis lift so that you have plenty of overlap between the clevis and the bottom of the strut. Given the way the front suspension geometry is set up, a 1/2" physical lift should still net something around 1-1 1/4" of actual lift.

Science_Guy · **Posted:** Mon Oct 09, 2006 7:07 pm

Video Guy wrote:

But where are pics of the finished product :?:

Don't leave us hanging, ya tease!

Congratulations on what sounds like a relatively painless install.

Sorry... Here is a shot of the entire package.

How long should I wait before I get an alignment?

raceinfan · **Posted:** Mon Oct 09, 2006 7:20 pm

NICE

doesn't look bad at all with the 245/70's now I know what mine will look like soon only differances is I have the BFG's & a Columbia ed.

cowdogg · **Posted:** Mon Oct 09, 2006 7:48 pm

Science_Guy wrote:

How long should I wait before I get an alignment?

I only waited three days because I felt it had settled enough and it was visibly toed so badly that I didn't want to continue taking the cheese grater to the tires. :shock:

If yours doesn't look to bad you could wait a bit longer I'm sure.

KJ-BOL · **Posted:** Mon Oct 09, 2006 7:51 pm

Science_Guy wrote:

How long should I wait before I get an alignment?

i'd do it a couple days before going to badlands on the 28th - you dont want it misaligned on the trails...

Video Guy · **Posted:** Tue Oct 10, 2006 9:30 am

Science_Guy wrote:

Sorry... Here is a shot of the entire package.

How long should I wait before I get an alignment?

Oh yeah! That's what I'm t talkin' about! Looks great. Not too extreme to be a daily driver, but still says, "I eat Rav4s for breakfast and Grand Vitaras for lunch."

Science_Guy · **Posted:** Thu Oct 12, 2006 11:03 am

JJsKJ wrote:

I smell a move of this thread to tech, some good info here. :wink:

I am more the willing to summarize this data into one thread if you would like that for a tech article. Eddo can do it if he would like since it is really his work. I just took the pictures and wrote it up.

I too the jeep in yesterday for an alignment. They asked if there were new specs with the lift. I did not really know the answer to this so we just set it up to the OE specs.

Here are the specs he gave to me:
Left Front
Camber Actual -0.6 Before -0.2 Range -0.8 0.0
Caster Actual 1.9 Before 1.9 Range 3.4 4.4
Toe Actual 0.09 Before 0.12 Range 0.04 0.16

Right Front
Camber Actual -0.4 Before -0.8 Range -0.8 0.0
Caster Actual 1.5 Before 1.5 Range 3.4 4.4
Toe Actual 0.04 Before 0.06 Range 0.04 0.16

Front
Cross Camber Actual -0.1 Before 0.5 Range -0.7 0.7
Cross Caster Actual 0.3 Before 0.3 Range -0.5 0.5
Total Toe Actual 0.13 Before 0.18 Range 0.08 0.33
Set Back Actual 0.64 Before 0.58

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Wed Oct 25, 2006 5:13 pm

It took me and my dad around 45min to add another conduit washer to mine. Ive had the front end apart many times though..

Its really simple after you tear into things..

-Pop upper balljoint.
-Take lower sway bar bolt out of endlink.
-Loosen clevis bolt.
-Loosen and remove bolt holding forks to lower control arm.
-remove clevis from strut after spreading apart the clevis..
-add washers
-do reverse of above..

Installation of my Rustys lift

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