Have had my '06 CRD Sport for 2 months now and I have noticed that over speed bumps and such the front goes over smoothly but the back is quite harsh, occasionally causing loss of traction and wierd handling if happen to be going around a corner. I do have the tow package and was just wondering if this included stiffer shocks. Has anyone found a shock with different valving that eliminates this?

I noticed the same thing and believe it due to the front end weight bias of the diesel. Last winter I had @ 250 lbs of weight in the rear which settled the ride harshness squirly handling.

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2005 Liberty Sport CRD, Lt Khaki, sunroof

Thankful to now be an EX-CRD owner.

My CRD also has the tow package, it does not include different shocks (actually doesn't include much of anything with the CRD).

The rear is on the stiff side. I remember reading a post that someone has smoothed the ride quality out by using differently valved shocks. I am a little skeptical of a different shock curing the stiff ride. It could keep the vehicle from pitching weight rear to forward- or side to side, but it will not help with the vehicle's rear refusing to absorb the impact of bumps. The main problem with your harsh ride in the rear is compression. Shocks don't handle the initial compression-- the coil springs do. The shock handles the aftermath of the springs compression. If the spring does not compress-- the shock does nothing.

The best way to get your ideal ride is to replace the springs in the rear with softer ones, If you do that, you will also need to upgrade the shocks in front. You will want the shocks in front upgraded to help keep the weight from shifting forward (or rearward) abruptly. The last shocks to upgrade would be the rear, which for smooth ride quality-- would include shocks with impact sensitive valving.

So:

Front: New shocks, high quality, faster valving than stock (faster rebound and compression), deep dampening ability desired (so they don't fade). I would not skimp on the front end here. If you are doing shocks on a diesel-- do it right.

Rear: New springs, that are slightly softer. If you get new shocks, consider impact sensing (blow off valve). The blow off valve will keep the shock stiff most of the time but will allow it to travel quickly when hitting a big bump. (Resulting in improved front to back body roll while having the ability to let the shock go through its travel quickly when hitting a big bump).

This vehicle has a rear axle and the rear will never be as plush as the front, but this will balance them out as best as possible for street use. The above is for street use by the way, the rear setup will not be ideal for 4x4. The lighter rear spring will also suck for towing. That is life. You can get load leveling shocks that adjust if you want to tow and want a softer spring too.

Remember that the rear is sprug to support the cargo carrying capacity. Like a pickup, it will ride rougher when empty. By going with softer springs, you will reduce that capacity accordingly.

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2006 Libery Sport CRD, Lt Kakhi, nicely equipped
*****GDE Hot Tune at 38,879 miles
*****Stock TC.....for the time being!!

It has nothing to do with an engine.

All Libertys are rough riders in the rear. Harshly sprung solid rear axle.

Such is Jeep life.

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Me - '17 KL Trailhawk 4x4, Rhino, P245/65R17 Destination A/Ts, Stock Skids, waiting for mods...
Sis - '18 Cherokee Trailhawk 4x4 - Black - Dents - Scratches - STOCK

Put in the OME rear shocks & you will notice a significant difference, its all in the valving. Springs do not have anything to do with it unless you're increasing the rate more than %50.

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Custom, Comfortable & Capable.......just the way it should be

Thanks OzLtd, exatly what I was looking for. I understand what the rest of you are explaining with the springs and all but I know from first hand experience
that shock valving directly affects how a spring moves at speed - that is spring motion speed, not road speed. Just play with any adjustable shock and try to move it by hand. Also, how manufacturers valve shocks for specific applications doesn't necessarily mean that one will be best for your particular vehicle/personal tastes. Take my modified YJ (still leaf springs) as an example - the best overall street/offroad for handling, not bottoming out on large bumps, smoothest ride on washboard roads, etc. for my tastes turned out to be cheapo BDS Hydros meant for an F-350 with 8" lift. Equivalent length "Jeep applications" were at least twice as stiff. Kind of opposite to what I would have thought but after trying at least 7 types on it over the years (including adjustables), kind of glad I just happened to find that these work for me, even if it was totally by accident (and manually pulling on every shock around 32" long in a local 4X4 shop!). I was just trying to skip all that trial & error on my Liberty.

Shock valving makes a HUGE difference even on the compression side. I have tried different shock with the stock springs.

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Feb/2006 Silver Sport 4x4 CRD

edon, I actually removed my rear OME shocks for 2 reasons.

1) Ride - Too soft for me, I like a more controlled ride, and I dont mean firm. I ended up using another OME shock, but its application was a rear GQ Patrol Wagon (Nissan). They're a 2.6Tonne LWB Family Wagon here in OZ, much the same as an 80 Series Toyota L'Cruiser. OME list 2 types in the Catalogue, normal OME HD and a 'C' for 'Comfort' Valving option. Knowing the valving was going to be firm as it was, I opted for the confort and it worked perfectly. Put it this way, when the KJ's empty (fuel) and i'm driving by myself, it can feel a littel bit frim, but not sports car firm, and when it in fully loaded 4x4 trip/camping mode, its PERFECT !! I think I was extremely lucky in the whole thing, the valving just happened to be right.

2) Travel - I was after something that was around 660mm extended and 400mm or under compressed and bingo.......the rest is history.

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Custom, Comfortable & Capable.......just the way it should be

Thanks guys, guess I'll just have to try 'em and see if I like the results. Does anybody know what the differences are between the two listed for KJ's (N134 for stock, N132 for lifted)? Some have posted that OME rear shocks are only marginally longer than stock - is that the N132 or had they been incorrectly using the N134s?

The N132 are only about 1/2 longer than stock. I have pictures if you like. A call to ARB a while back confirmed the N134 are shorter than the N132s.

You should be able to fit N132 on a stock KJ without a problem since it is only 1/2 longer than stock.

Thanks Eddo - is that 1/2" longer collapsed or extended? Are they that short to prevent bottoming out the shock body when compressed?

Only 1/2" longer on both compression and extension.

I believe the reasoning for only being 1/2" longer is to prevent any chance of bottoming out the shock without adding extended bump stops. Also to ensure the spring still remains tight at full droop. IMO they could have went more like 1.5 - 2" and still completely avoided those problem on a lifted KJ.

However, on the bright side they do make an excellent replacement for a stock KJ only being a 1/2" longer.