Home-made droop bumpstop?

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Fri Oct 20, 2006 6:08 pm

Ive always wanted to do bigger clevis lift but couldnt without getting UBJC. I finally got some free time and brain stormed alittle, this is what I came up with:

If anyone knows anything about a coal prep plant, this is used on the screeners to keep them in place:

Alittle time with a hack saw and I made these little guys:

I need to do alittle adjusting but I think they will do just fine. One of them gets pushed between the coils so I will have to keep my eye on that one. Im just worried one will come off and I wont know about it. It only take ones time to destroy the UB boot and I cannot afford to buy any new A-arms..

What do you guys think?

Im going to add more conduit washers either tomorrow or sunday, ill be sure to post pics and measure how much more lift I get... Not to sure if Ill add one or two more washers.. What do you guys think I should go with? 1 or 2? I already have one in there..

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Fri Oct 20, 2006 6:54 pm

Update:

I worked on it alittle more and Im not to happy with them. If the suspension is at full droop and you turn the wheel, it just pushes them out of the way. Does this happen to people that have the franken lift with the old style bumpstops? Maybe if I made them aliltte wider and taller they will stay in place better?

You can tell its pushed to the side:

Those balljoints take alot of crap! Look at that boot!

Ill work on it again tomorrow.. Ill probably just make them wider so they wont get pushed to the side like like..

Jeepin Al · **Posted:** Fri Oct 20, 2006 7:23 pm

Looks like someone will be needen' a set of A-arms soon! Hint Hint

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Fri Oct 20, 2006 7:25 pm

Jeepin Al wrote:

Looks like someone will be needen' a set of A-arms soon! Hint Hint

Haha, if only I had the money bud..

So what are you saying? There not going to work? :lol:

uvalax236 · **Posted:** Fri Oct 20, 2006 7:33 pm

Make them taller and wider. It looks like in that last pic that the boot may be torn already. Could be the angle of the pic though.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Fri Oct 20, 2006 7:57 pm

uvalax236 wrote:

Make them taller and wider. It looks like in that last pic that the boot may be torn already. Could be the angle of the pic though.

No, not torn. Ive not done the clevis lift yet so nothing could of caused a torn boot, yet.. :wink:

unixxx · **Posted:** Fri Oct 20, 2006 11:02 pm

Every time I do anything under the Libby I find myself readjusting the Frankenlift bump stops. They do shift, but it only takes a few minutes to fix so I don't worry about it. Something I did notice though, is that yours are about 50% thicker and look stickier than the Frankenlift's. The Frankenlift's are made out of a slippery hard rubber that I can't name because I'm by no means a rubber expert :wink:

FreedomKJ · **Posted:** Fri Oct 20, 2006 11:42 pm

unixxx wrote:

Every time I do anything under the Libby I find myself readjusting the Frankenlift bump stops. They do shift, but it only takes a few minutes to fix so I don't worry about it. Something I did notice though, is that yours are about 50% thicker and look stickier than the Frankenlift's. The Frankenlift's are made out of a slippery hard rubber that I can't name because I'm by no means a rubber expert :wink:

The word you're looking for is polyurethane.

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Sat Oct 21, 2006 5:25 am

The problem I see is that adding a clevis lift is only going to make your travel less...because it will make contact faster. With the OME Lift, does your UBJ make contact? I thought it only nets you 2" of lift...and figured that contact would be at a minimum.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Sat Oct 21, 2006 10:03 am

DarbyWalters wrote:

The problem I see is that adding a clevis lift is only going to make your travel less...because it will make contact faster. With the OME Lift, does your UBJ make contact? I thought it only nets you 2" of lift...and figured that contact would be at a minimum.

No, the OME lift does not have any UBJC, if it did then my boot would be torn. I would of made these along time ago if it did hit the spring. :wink:

I need to find some polyurethane.. Ill look around some today.. :wink:

Eddo · **Joined:** Thu Jul 07, 2005 7:01 pm **Posts:** 1214

Jeepjeepster wrote:

DarbyWalters wrote:

The problem I see is that adding a clevis lift is only going to make your travel less...because it will make contact faster. With the OME Lift, does your UBJ make contact? I thought it only nets you 2" of lift...and figured that contact would be at a minimum.

No, the OME lift does not have any UBJC, if it did then my boot would be torn. I would of made these along time ago if it did hit the spring. :wink:

I need to find some polyurethane.. Ill look around some today.. :wink:

Yeah man, the really hard polyurethane is quite slick especially when you hit it with a bit of silicon. Doesn't slip one bit on me. Also, I make sure my hose clamp is about as tight as I can possibly get it was a big old screw driver. Hasn't ever move on me yet.

Actually, wheel travel remains the same for the most part. You just have less down travel, but more up travel. Total travel stays the same (unless you start bottoming out the struts or something), just the proportions of uptravel/down travel change.

Very similar to how the frankenlift works. Doesn't have all the much down travel because you are pretty much maxed out at height, but alot of up travel still remains.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Sat Oct 21, 2006 2:10 pm

I dont know where to start looking for the polyurethane? Me dad and I worked on it some more and made them much bigger. Im going to leave it alone for awhile with no extra cleavis lift to see if they stay put. Since it limites the downward travel some, they get hit before the strut maxes out. Hopefully they will take some good hits on the hw and Ill get to see if they will work.. If they do fail, then my balljoints will still be safe since the strut will still catch it.. Then Ill add some more washers.. :wink:

Those pipe clamps are not very strong.. I already broke one.. :wink:

waddy whiteguts · **Posted:** Sat Oct 21, 2006 2:58 pm

How about attaching the stop to the a-arm itself somhow??

Eddo · **Joined:** Thu Jul 07, 2005 7:01 pm **Posts:** 1214

You can get sheet of the stuff here

http://www.mcmaster.com/

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Sat Oct 21, 2006 8:14 pm

I added another conduit washer today and it seems like I netted between 1/4in to 3/8in.. Ill measure it again after I drive it to see what I got..

lilmatty · **Posted:** Sun Oct 22, 2006 7:46 pm

I added the little stoppers supplied with the Frankenlift. They're solid and have taken a beating without any problems. Also clamped with a hose clamp. Suggest you call Quinn or Heather at AllJ and have them ship you two.

Bernardio · **Posted:** Mon Oct 23, 2006 2:59 pm

Maybe you can cut a recessed area for the band clamp to fit snug into. That way the band clamp will have a better hold on the stop and shouldn't rotate as easily. Also, are the OME struts that much longer that the stock struts that we need to worry about UBJ contact? I did about a 1/4" clevis with the stock strut and didn't think the UBJ was very close to contacting the spring. How much longer are the OME struts compressed/extended anyhow?

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Fri Oct 27, 2006 10:18 pm

Bernardio wrote:

Maybe you can cut a recessed area for the band clamp to fit snug into. That way the band clamp will have a better hold on the stop and shouldn't rotate as easily. Also, are the OME struts that much longer that the stock struts that we need to worry about UBJ contact? I did about a 1/4" clevis with the stock strut and didn't think the UBJ was very close to contacting the spring. How much longer are the OME struts compressed/extended anyhow?

They do not seem to be much longer.. Im very confused by all this b/c most people do a clevis lift without thinking about it.

The reason im confused is b/c of this pic which i took myself:

I know ive got the ome struts b/c one, eddo sold them to me and two, they have the part # on them and ive matched them up..

Here is the upper balljoint with one conduit nut:

But get this, here is the other side with one conduit nut:

I know the spring is turned some, but it still doesnt look like its as close at the other side. There was barly an 1/8in on the other side, if that..

Ive not taken one with the second one added..

Anyway, Ive put around 200miles on it since adding the bumpstops and the extra conduit nut and all is well. I checked them out today and everything is fine. Many bumps and dips to max the suspension out, seems to be working just fine.

moose · **Posted:** Sat Oct 28, 2006 8:39 am

i think it's just because the spring is turned.

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Sat Oct 28, 2006 9:24 am

moose wrote:

i think it's just because the spring is turned.

It may be. I guess its just an optical illusion(is that the right word?)..

Either way, everyone else can do a good sized clevis lift. I wish I could of just turned the other spring..

I didnt like the angle that was on the balljoints at full droop anyway. The bumpstop helps that.. :wink:

Home-made droop bumpstop?

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