Ann Arbor, MI area Lift Party

LostRenegade · **Posted:** Mon Oct 02, 2006 9:25 pm

NU ARTY BOY and myself are planning a lift get together October 21st. He has a Frankenlift and I have Rusty strut plates to install. We were going to do it last Saturday, but got rained out. I attempted the my strut plates on Sunday, but the clevis bracket stopped me. I could not get the strut out to put the plate on. I ended up just doing a clevis lift for the time being.

Thanks Don (Pixeldzn) for the phone call. Using a bigger hammer and hitting harder did the trick of freeing the upper ball joint.

Any hints on how to get the strut out of the clevis bracket?

Thanks,
Ken

pixeldzn · **Posted:** Mon Oct 02, 2006 9:46 pm

LostRenegade wrote:

Any hints on how to get the strut out of the clevis bracket?

Thanks,
Ken

Yep, take the clevis off at the point where it meets the LCA.

You will have to pry it off once you get the bolt off. When you put it back on, a ratchet strap around the engine skid is VERY helpful. Helps you pull it back into place.

LostRenegade · **Posted:** Tue Oct 03, 2006 7:58 pm

It sounds like when putting it back together, the clevis gets re-attached to the lower control arm before the strut goes in. Then is the ratchet strap used to snap the strut in place with the clevis (pull it together)?

moose · **Posted:** Wed Oct 04, 2006 8:27 am

LostRenegade wrote:

It sounds like when putting it back together, the clevis gets re-attached to the lower control arm before the strut goes in. Then is the ratchet strap used to snap the strut in place with the clevis (pull it together)?

no. you want to put the strut in and start the 4 bolts (3 turns - still very loose), then slide the clevis up onto the strut (work it side-to-side if it's tight, also hit it with wd-40 first). Once you have it on - tighten it down, then use Don's meathod or my 5' 2x4 method (see dayton lift part thread). Eddo and I used two screwdrivers with the 2x4. i pushed down, then Eddo lined up the fron hole with a screwdriver. repeat for rear hole. remove screwdriver and start bolt (make sure it's going the right way - front to back if i remember correctly), then pry to line up while second guy lightly hammers bolt. tighten bolt, losen clevis on the strut, then retighten (removes torque, may not be needed, but makes us feel better).

look for jfortier777's install guide on lost or kjcountry. it has lots of good pictures.

LostRenegade · **Posted:** Thu Oct 05, 2006 8:53 pm

Thanks Moose, the picks in the other thread and the install instructions on KJ Country really help.

Thanks,
Ken

detroit_doc · **Posted:** Thu Oct 12, 2006 3:53 pm

I've got a Frankenlift on order. I'm not sure if I'll have it by the 21st, but I might want to come watch/help install yours. Can you keep me updated on whether or not this is still happening?

Thanks!
Todd

LostRenegade · **Posted:** Thu Oct 12, 2006 7:40 pm

detroit_doc wrote:

I've got a Frankenlift on order. I'm not sure if I'll have it by the 21st, but I might want to come watch/help install yours. Can you keep me updated on whether or not this is still happening?

Thanks!
Todd

Sure will. I am still planning on working on my strut plates and I believe that NU Arty is still planning on his Frankenlift. I'll PM my number to you in a few days so we can set everything up.

Thanks,
Ken

NU ARTY BOY · **Posted:** Mon Oct 16, 2006 12:21 pm

Sorry my internet has been down for the past couple of days :evil:

Yea I still want to get my lift installed before it gets cold outside. I really don't want to shell out $$$ for the install.

LostRenegade · **Posted:** Sat Oct 21, 2006 10:29 pm

Well, we spend the day lifting our KJs today. NU ARTY and myself adjusted my Rusty's lift with the Rusty 1/2 strut plates and a 1/2 inch clevis.

We installed NU ARTY's franklenlift, but had a little misshap. Everything is on, but we couldn't tighten down the driver side upper ball joint. :cry:

We have about a 1/2 inch left to tighten down and just couldn't tighten it any more. We couldn't even back the nut off. We tried several diverent vise grips to hold the ball joint in place so it wouldn't turn, but it kept turning anyway.

Any clue what to do about this other then cutting the ball joint off and replacing the A Arm?

Jeepjeepster · **Posted:** Sat Oct 21, 2006 10:45 pm

LostRenegade wrote:

Well, we spend the day lifting our KJs today. NU ARTY and myself adjusted my Rusty's lift with the Rusty 1/2 strut plates and a 1/2 inch clevis.

We installed NU ARTY's franklenlift, but had a little misshap. Everything is on, but we couldn't tighten down the driver side upper ball joint. :cry:

We have about a 1/2 inch left to tighten down and just couldn't tighten it any more. We couldn't even back the nut off. We tried several diverent vise grips to hold the ball joint in place so it wouldn't turn, but it kept turning anyway.

Any clue what to do about this other then cutting the ball joint off and replacing the A Arm?

Could be a cross threaded nut.. I cross threaded mine when i did my lift but i caught it before it was on to far.. I would try to cut the nut off with a dremel if you have one. My dealer had those nuts in stock too.. :wink:

Bakerkj · **Posted:** Sun Oct 22, 2006 12:24 pm

Did you get it on or off yet?

LostRenegade · **Posted:** Sun Oct 22, 2006 3:01 pm

We were in the process of putting it back together when we couldn't get the nut all the way on. We couldn't tighten it any further and we couln't take it off.

KJ04 · **Posted:** Sun Oct 22, 2006 6:51 pm

Are you using a 10mm socket or wrench on the lower end of the bolt while turning the B.J. nut?

If you can get it to back off, take a small file and recut the threads that are mashed, then pick up a new metric nut from a dealership.

It's best to leave the B.J. nut on a few turns when knocking the B.J. loose, then you don't end up with damaged threads.

LostRenegade · **Posted:** Sun Oct 22, 2006 8:31 pm

There is not enough of the ball joint end sticking out past the nut to get a socket or a wrench on it.

NU ARTY BOY · **Posted:** Tue Oct 24, 2006 12:11 pm

I think that I might try the idea of cutting the nut off but I'm worried now that the threads on the UBJ might be damaged. Does anyone know what the thread count is, or if there is something (similar to rethreading an engine block for spark plugs) that I can use to repair the threads that might be damaged? A new A arm is going to be expensive wether its OEM of aftermarket...

Bakerkj · **Posted:** Tue Oct 24, 2006 12:49 pm

NU ARTY BOY wrote:

I think that I might try the idea of cutting the nut off but I'm worried now that the threads on the UBJ might be damaged. Does anyone know what the thread count is, or if there is something (similar to rethreading an engine block for spark plugs) that I can use to repair the threads that might be damaged? A new A arm is going to be expensive wether its OEM of aftermarket...

Ask around on the main board. I'm sure there is someone that has upgraded to Al's and will send you their old a-arm for the cost of shipping.

Spowers · **Posted:** Tue Oct 24, 2006 2:44 pm

Just did mine Saturday, same exact problem.

The Drivers nut got right to the point where you can just about get to the hex end, but not quite enough.

I ended up using a second set of hands and a crow bar, the crowbar was leverage on the top A-arm to get more friction onto the ball joint.
This allowed just enough friction to get it the nut to move, I also found quick force applied to the ratchet allowed the nut to be tightened even after the ball joint began to slip.

If you can borrow an air ratchet, it will probably do exactly what you need.
Good Luck.

NU ARTY BOY · **Posted:** Tue Oct 24, 2006 4:09 pm

I don't understand what you did with the crowbar...can you PM me with a little bit of details so I can get this thing fixed?

LostRenegade · **Posted:** Tue Oct 24, 2006 6:13 pm

I think the goal is to seat the ball joint as best as possible to create friction that will reduce the spinning. Apply some torque to try to loosen the nut. Either quick jolts from the ratchet or better yet an air impact wrench. A buddy at work mentioned doing the same thing to get it undone. The sudden torque from an impact wrench could loosen it.

detroit_doc · **Posted:** Tue Oct 24, 2006 7:57 pm

I had that problem as well. I removed the jack I had under the a-arm, put an adjustable wrench between the upper control arm and spindle and used it as a lever to put more pressure on the ball joint. I was finally able to get it to go.

Just a note, I am in the process of pulling my frankenlift back off. Both the spindle and the upper ball joints were smacking the springs. Just driving down the paved road, the suspension sounds like it is beating itself to death. I got no help from All-Js. I hope you have better luck. Let us know.

Ann Arbor, MI area Lift Party

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