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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 11:39 am 
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True they are Jeeps but that doesn't mean you have to trash em by knowingly going beyond capabilities just because it looks cool.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 11:58 am 
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Matt400 wrote:
True they are Jeeps but that doesn't mean you have to trash em by knowingly going beyond capabilities just because it looks cool.


There is a certain crowd that modifies their jeeps not to make them look cool, but because there was some rock they couldnt climb over with 32" tires, and if they had 35's they could have made it.

You know the saying....Its a Jeep thing.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 1:04 pm 
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Jeger wrote:
Matt400 wrote:
True they are Jeeps but that doesn't mean you have to trash em by knowingly going beyond capabilities just because it looks cool.


There is a certain crowd that modifies their jeeps not to make them look cool, but because there was some rock they couldnt climb over with 32" tires, and if they had 35's they could have made it.

You know the saying....Its a Jeep thing.


Or some of us just build Broncos :mrgreen:

I can never leave anything stock. Just goes against my nature....The KJ will eventially have 33's on it....but not until it is out of warranty.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 1:06 pm 
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Jeger wrote:
There is a certain crowd that modifies their jeeps not to make them look cool, but because there was some rock they couldn't climb over with 32" tires, and if they had 35's they could have made it.

You know the saying....Its a Jeep thing.
I know what you mean, when I said "just because it looks cool" I meant not just the visual but the whole picture looking cool to others. There is nothing wrong with realizing the limits of a particular machine and exercising some common sense, after all there will always be a bigger rock.

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Last edited by Matt400 on Wed Sep 27, 2006 4:25 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: OK
PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 1:18 pm 
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fireblad1 wrote:
I dont like talking about this but ok these guys of RK sent me staight to hell and basically I had ruined my Liberty, the back was solved with limiting straps and bumb stops in the middle of the springs I also put 2 aditional shocks in the rear, speaking of the front every single part of the RK piece of junk came off nothing worked, I bent pieces every single time i used it.
I switched to a solid front axle wich from my esperience is the only way to go if you want youre liberty to do more agressive things.
If you guys want pictures tell me of what parts an I will send them.


So, do you have the remnants of the lift, do you really have to drill a hole in the spindle? I am sure this kit wont work, but it doesnt mean we couldnt learn something from it. If you have any pics or other info to share please do.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 3:59 pm 
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I am so glad that some people on this forum wasnt on the design team for the first moon mission....

Were is the school of thought for this? If we have the attiude that it cant me done then it wont get done I say give me a cutting torch and welder and some steel i can make something work to allow me to crawl like the big dogs....oh and just to prove the point a 29 model t was never designed to have a huge blower on it like a 29 t-bucket

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 27, 2006 5:21 pm 
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CarNutCertifies wrote:
oh and just to prove the point a 29 model t was never designed to have a huge blower on it like a 29 t-bucket
Lets hope the KJ doesn't end up there, all looks and no function.

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 30, 2006 12:53 am 
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This is one of those times when i wish i had more money than i knew what to do with...I mean how hard could it be to build brackets out of 1/4 inch steel to connect to the factory mounting points of a Toyota cradle to the factory mounting points of the KJ cradle....I mean they are both bolted to their respective vehicles....but people have gotten more "If I cant buy it then It can't be done attitude....." By the way for those of you that dont know me I have worked on everything from military aircraft to 18 wheeled rigs, from ford escorts to dirt track cars, to bikes to bicycles. I have taken motors out of Ford trucks and mounted them in Ford cars...Heck we took a 4.3 liter v-6 out of a chevy astrovan and put a 350 four bolt in its place and kept it streetable...by the way this was in 92 before they had a kit on the market to do this install.....We were told then it wont fit its to long your going to have to modify your firewall and have custom headers built and the front springs won't hold the extra weight, and the ECU unit wont work, and so on and so on.... We did the swap for under 500.00 no i did not forget a zero, that included buying the motor...Parts are cheap from wrecking yards in most cases and peoples back yards that want cars gone...like i said in an earlier post i bought a whole S-10 4x4 blazer running needs a new motor rod knocking but what we are going to do with it we dont need the motor for 150.00....I don't think this is a simple install i mean it will require a certain amount of skill with a welder and a tape measure but really in all fairness how hard can it be? for those that have removed the cradle out of the KJ chime in here what is involved? Everyone is wanting a 4 inch lift kit so lets build one...even if it is on paper right now lets put it together on paper and then if someone would like to take the plung then they have a therotical lift solution to all the problems.....like i said i just wish i had the money to take the plunge on myself or i would.....Heck the first KJ to have 33s or larger without fear of breaking the front dif or over stressing the CVs...the idea here is to find a solution to our delima....Ok so the RK lift is JUNK we all know that...but they did do one thing...they built the thing ran the thing and never finished it....face it they built a proto type...what do we need to do to fix the mistakes?????

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new dent in drivers side passenger door from duranged tree
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2062821


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2006 1:08 am 
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Just ask Al.

He's allready at 5.5" & 33's.

I think that a GOOD 4.0"-5.0" lift to clear LT285/75R-16's (33"x11.0")without rubbing would perfect. I don't need 35's on my XJ or my KJ.

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PostPosted: Fri Oct 06, 2006 10:38 pm 
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I dont need them either but there are those that do. I agree 4" would be enough. The only reason i picked the RK kit to take a look at is because it is already fab and shouldn't require to much to make work espically if it was just used as a template..I was trying to get the discussion going that would end up taking this part and that part replacing it with ths and coming up with a lift that would work, You know if the knuckles are too weak lets replace them with ones out of a toyota or something. If the A arms will work lets keep them but replace the or fab or alter how it needs to be. We all know they built the thing and didnt test it properly but what does that kit need? stonger thicker steel? shock mounts moved, limiting straps on the rear what? Surly the kit has some good parts, Like firebald said he fixed the rear with bumpstops and limit straps. What does the front need? What is the purpose of drilling holes? Anyhow I wish some of he techies would jump in here.

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92 Jeep Cherokee
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new dent in drivers side passenger door from duranged tree
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2062821


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 2:52 am 
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 2:55 am 
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Do I have the only one of these things that actually works?

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 5:49 am 
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Ooooooohhhhhh myyyyyyyyy god :shock: , i've just seen what my 05 Black KJ LTD CRD will look like in 12 months................. :twisted:

I see you're still running the IFS front as per the kit specs - can you pls take a few more detailed underbody pics so we can see whats going on under there ?

Thank
Stu

Looks great by the way ;)

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 8:05 am 
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RiKMiL wrote:
Image
Do I have the only one of these things that actually works?


You might :lol:

I second the request for more pics,
the shots of the others I have seen looked pretty bad, that side shot of yours looks good though, Would be nice if we could have more pictures, did you have to change anything with the kit to make it work right?

Oh, and did I mention that I would like to see more pictures :D , its awfully clean in that shot how about some pictures of you getting it dirty?

And a very big welcome to the lost menagerie 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 9:12 am 
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What do you mean by "actually works?" Do you take it off-road on some really challenging trails? We need some action shots. Close-up shots of the lift would be nice also.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 10:00 am 
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In the words of Monty...."Jaysus Christ!!!"...That thing looks awesome...I just hope it is functional off-road...looks like the rear axle would have to be moved back a bit to help with the tire not rubbing the rear door, that's mainly b/c of tire size though i would think...what size are you running???

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 11:39 am 
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Jumpin Jahosafat!! That thing is cool lookin!

X a billion on request for more pics.

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PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 8:38 pm 
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Ok I'll get some more pics. As far as the mods... The time and money spent correcting the kit were almost as pricy as the kit its self. I had to make my own slip yoke eliminator, I cut the length of the output shaft down (because I wanted a longer drive shaft with a cv upper) , resplined it just a hair wider groves, drilled and tapped and then re hardned it. That was about $600. The front out put yoke was filled with 1/2 inch plate and drilled with a 4 hole pattern to use a standard cv style front drive shaft. The stocker was funny looking 7 degree max rating. I diddnt even try to make it work just went a head and swaped it out for a known good design. I did not use the steering recomendations. They ask you to drill a hole in the knuckle and bolt some cheesy crap to it that bends when you turn the wheel. I remedied all that by lowering the rack down 7.5 inches. Thats the key part that no one thought was possible. It was fairly simple. The power steering hoses are plenty long enough if you reroute them. The steering geometry is now slightly better than stock with less bumpsteer. The rear tires are dead center in the fender well at full compression. The long arm kit was too long I had to cut 1 inch off each of the 4 links to center the tire durring compression. I dont use a swaybar at all. It does lean but Its not a racecar. Plus the fancy QA1 coilovers are adjustable. If it gets scary just dial it up. There are some strange noises from all the rear links using uniball type joints instead of rubber noise dampening style joints. I wish one end or the other was rubber. But what the heck it works good. I am using 33x13.5x16 pit bull rockers. They diddnt last too long and their not radial but I diddnt jask it up for street use anyways. If theres specific picks you want lemme know. Ill get them up asap. I have not put rocker protection on it yet and I know its needed in the rocks. I will make something soon. I have just joined a local 4x4 club and plan on going to moab in a few months. How do all of you get away with not having a cage? Are there many vehicles in places like moab with out cages? This jeep is too nice to put a cage in and gut out, so I may be taking something else to moab. I have only seen pics of places like that and dont really know what to expect.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 8:54 pm 
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So you just told us that you had to do ALL kinds of stuff to make this thing work. Add up all you spent and price your labor as if a shop would charge you and then come up with a total cost with the lift and install.

So in essence, the 7-up lift is still a piece of junk.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 9:08 pm 
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This guy did a whole lot of R&D at his own expense, if what he has actually functions well, it is a big step in a good direction, and is worth some recognition. I would not call it the RK 7up kit though (it obviously does not work as is), even if you did use some of their components. The question is, how much would a kit cost that includes all of his custom/modified parts ready to bolt on, and how much if any welding/cutting of stock components would have to be done to make it work.

It might be a good idea to continue this discussion in a new thread?
Im sure some people are not following this one anymore

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